Behold the Bone-In Burger From M. Wells Steakhouse in Queens

[Photographs: Max Falkowitz]

In his latest New York restaurant review, Max Falkowitz reviews M. Wells Steakhouse, where, as he explains, "much of the menu makes no fucking sense." Here's one example: the Bone-In Burger ($17).

Actually, it's pretty self-explanatory: it's a burger with a giant bone sticking out of it. The bone is easily removed. Here's Max's description of it:

For all its ribbed tromp l'oeil, it's ultimately one more cheffy burger in a town full of cheffy burgers. The brisket and aged trim grind is undone by over-compacting, overcooking, and a flood of shallot jam and tartar sauce.

Max initially planned on writing a separate post about the burger, but it wasn't good enough to warrant one. [insert sad trombone]

M. Wells Steakhouse serves plenty of other great dishes worth your while; you're in for a good time whenever chef Hugue Dufour is at the helm. Just skip the burger.


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