Surprise! Burger King's New "Satisfries" Do Not Suck

[Photographs: Erin Jackson]

Until five minutes ago, I thought the most shocking part of my week was going to be watching the Breaking Bad series finale, but that might not be the case. Because, as I've already revealed in the headline to this review, Burger King finally debuted a new menu item that (drumroll, please) does not suck.

The item in question is the "Satisfries"($2.49 reg.), new crinkle-cut fries that are being promoted as having 40 percent less fat and 30 percent less calories. It's a pretty dramatic claim, but if you read the fine print, you'll see the new fries are being compared to McDonald's fries.

In a head-to-head comparison between BK's new fries and their standard fries, the numbers aren't as persuasive. At 190 calories and 8 grams of fat in a value-size serving, the better-for-you spuds have roughly 20 percent less fat and 26 percent less calories than BK's standard fries.

What makes the new fries different is their coating. According to the New York Times, Burger King spent the last two years working with McCain Foods developing a less porous coating that absorbs less oil during frying, resulting in fries with less fat and calories.

Surprisingly, the flavor is actually quite good. The crinkle-cut spuds have a blonde, just barely fried exterior and a warm interior bursting with potato, making them taste like oven-baked fries, but with a crisp, flaky exterior that can only be achieved with hot, bubbling oil. They reminded me of the fries I'd get in chain restaurants as a kid: fat, lightly salted potato sticks full of potato fluff that invite copious application of ketchup (at least, for those who swing that way).

If you're looking for a slightly healthier alternative, Burger King's new fries are worth trying, but only if fries are all you're after. As we've already established, the burgers are beyond redemption.

Have you tried BK's new fries? Let us know your thoughts in the comments.

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