We recently checked out Prime Meats, the meat-centric joint opened by the focused and ambitious Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo. Although the steaks needed a little bit of work, much of the cooking was terrific, such as the amazing spaetzle and pretzels. But hey, this is a burger site, so I'm here to talk about the burger ($13), which falls into the "Almost Amazing and Great" category. Autopsy shot after the jump.
Great burgers are all about balance and the right components, and the boys get just about every component right—except for one, and it ain't the meat. The patty here is a sensational eight ounces (I wish it were five, but maybe that's just me) of Creekstone Farms Black Angus, fresh ground every day from the dry-aged steak scraps and trimmings. Our burger was insanely juicy, even though it came medium and we ordered it medium rare towards rare. It exploded with beefy, funky, dry-aged flavor—so much flavor that it didn't need the Gruyère ($2) or thick-sliced Faicco's bacon ($2) we ordered as toppings.
The fries were very fine, and so was the malolactic fermented dill pickle. Then what was the problem? It's not the economy, stupid, though at $13 this is not a cheap burger. It's the housemade sesame roll, guys. Franks, listen up—the bun you're using is bready, dull, and too dense. Just swallow your pride, get a Martin's potato roll, and your burger will rocket up the burger charts.
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