Columnist Joel Stein, in an article titled "Flipping for Burgers":
Burgers aren't interesting to chefs just because young people are willing to pay a lot for dude food; it's also because they have access to better meat. Though Yoon began grinding dry-aged New York strip and mixing it with a bit of chuck in 2000, grinding meat isn't done at most restaurants. So until a few years ago, everyone used chuck for burgers. Then New York's Pat La Frieda Wholesale Meat Purveyors started selling a proprietary blend of chuck and brisket to top restaurants, some of which also had short rib and hanger steak added. Burger Bar's Hubert Keller makes his excellent burgers by grinding meat in a butcher area at the back of his restaurant. "When it comes to pizza and burgers, people are eating so many of them that when you give them a great burger or pizza, they can tell the difference," he says. On his public TV series, Secrets of a Chef, one of the three recipes in each episode is a burger. Keller is shocked at how popular burgers are, having opened his Las Vegas Burger Bar only as a favor to Mandalay Bay hotel and casino, which also houses his second Fleur de Lys restaurant. "Five years ago, nobody thought of putting their name on a burger joint. I was gambling," he said. "I thought the press would fire back and say the man has made four-star restaurants his entire life, and now he's doing a burger."