Update: Word is the bun has changed. I'm heading in later today to try it with the new bun. If this is true, Stand could well rank in my top 10 burger list. 1/19/2008
Address: 24 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003
The Short Order: It coulda been a contender, but its gnarly baguette-tough bun inspires a new piece of burger phraseology here at AHT: The Backslider
Want Fries with That? Beats me. They look great in Bruni's post on the place, but I had the onion rings, which were rockin'.
To many New Yorkers, and certainly to foodbloggers, this burger is old news. I know it. Mea culpa. Stand opened ages ago. But, somehow, earlier this year, I lost my burger-blogging mojo.
I think I have it back. But not because of this burger.
Sure, it was good. I'll give it that.
Seven ounces of great-tasting, beefy flavored meat. Nice interplay of Dijon, red onion, and sweet homemade ketchup. And the lettuce, tomato, sliced pickle were certainly fresh enough.
But this burger's bun is UNFORGIVABLE.
The baguette-like conveyance that sandwiches the meat, cheese, and toppings is far too chewy. As with the worst overstuffed deli sandwiches, burger & co. squirt out the back end when you apply the tooth pressure required to bite through this gnarly bun.
From this day forward, and unless and until I can think of something better, all such burgers marked by this nasty trait will be known as "backsliders."
It's a shame, too, because this could be a great burger given a new bun.
* This is a damn shame because, according to Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky, I missed this burger when it was a 70-30 mixture of beef-to-fat. Dammit!