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Entries tagged with 'hamburger history'

A Visit to Louis' Lunch, Home of the Hamburger

Editor's note: As we rocket toward the Fourth of July, what better way to celebrate what's essentially America's national dish than with a visit to where it all supposedly began—Louis' Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut. Leave it to Nick "Beef Aficionado" Solares to cover the joint the way it needs to be covered. —The Mgmt.

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Louis' Lunch

261-263 Crown Street, New Haven CT 06510 (map); 203-562-5507; louislunch.com
Short Order: One of the nation's most important hamburger institutions, Louis' Lunch lays claim to having invented the dish we love so much. Cooked in a unique vertical broiler, the lean mix of beef is flavorful if not particularly juicy. In fact, the burger here is known more for its isn'ts than anything else. It isn't served on a bun but on slices of Pepperidge Farm white bread. It isn't served with condiments. It isn't going to bend to newfangled burgerworld whims. It is, however, a unique contribution to America's national cuisine
Want Fries with That? Fries? There are no fries here, fool. You can get chips, though. Other items on offer are homemade pies, potato salad, and soup. Drink a Foxon Park soda with it; the root beer is amazing
Price: $4.50

Louis' Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, has been making its hamburger sandwich since 1900, making it the longest continuously operating hamburger restaurant in America and claimant to be the creator of the venerable sandwich.

And while the world has largely adopted the plain white bun as the bread of choice for a burger, Louis' Lunch continues to serve them in its own distinct manner, vertically broiled, served on white bread, and sliced in half with the only permissible additions being onion, tomato and a cheese spread. The spread is necessary because the unique vertical broilers that Louis' Lunch uses would not be able to accommodate regular cheese.

Don't even think about putting ketchup on a burger at Louis'; there is a sign admonishing against even asking for it, because as Jeff Lassen, fourth-generation owner, says, "We want you to taste the meat."

Let's examine the recipe and its origins. The claim regarding the creation of the first burger is that one day in 1900, founder Louis Lassen had some leftover meat that he had ground up when a customer in a hurry rushed up to what was then a tiny lunch wagon and demanded something quick and delicious. According to legend, Louis formed the ground beef into a patty, cooked it, sandwiched it between two slices of bread, and sent the customer on his way.

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Piece of Burger History for Sale: $1

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For $1, you could own a burger joint like this. This one's in Dayton, Ohio, but there's an old White Tower for sale in Toledo.

There's a White Tower in Toledo, Ohio, for sale for $1, but the catch is that you have to move it. The YWCA next door wants to expand and is looking for a way to get rid of this location of the onetime White Castle competitor.

If there are no takers, the building might be torn down in fall. Come on! Some history-minded burger lover out there oughtta get on this. Could you imagine grabbing a cool little building like this to open a slider joint? And it's like $0.00016 a square foot (600 square feet total). [Tip o' the hat to T.J.]

A White Manna / White Mana Pilgrimage Revisited

If it's Tuesday, it must be time for another review from Nick Solares. Nick is also the publisher of Beef Aficionado, his blog that explores beef beyond burgerdom.

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As the newest member of the AHT team, I thought it appropriate to follow in Adam's intrepid steps and venture across the Hudson on a pilgrimage to two of America's most historically significant Hamburger establishments. I speak, of course, of White Manna in Hackensack, New Jersey, and White Mana in Jersey City, New Jersey. Adam visited both three years ago to the month, and while he raved about the burgers he ate in Hackensack he was less enthused by the Jersey city location. While I have eaten at both places on previous occasions I did so as a civilian, without the responsibility of reviewing the joints and putting them in to the context of the modern burger landscape.

Both establishments are now operated independently of each other and indeed have different owners but they were both founded by Louis Bridges back in 1946. The story goes that the structure that houses the Jersey City location was originally situated at the 1939 World's Fair and was then moved to its current resting place on Tonnele Avenue.

White Mana opened its doors on June 2, 1946, and has been going ever since; it is open 24 hours a day. The only major change, aside from the fact that the burgers cost a little more than the 10¢ they did back then is that during the 1980s, is that the restaurant lost an n in its name as the result of an error at the sign makers. The missing n was never straightened out, and the reconfigured name stuck.

The diner proved such a success that Bridges open three more Mannas in north Jersey in the 1940s, although now only the original and the Hackensack locations remain.

In reverse order to Adam's trip I started in Jersey City and then went north to Hackensack. While I am in complete agreement that the latter is far superior, I am not sure that I would necessarily countenance against visiting the original location in favor of the White Castle nearby as Adam did. I recommend you visit both!

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Carne Knowledge: Two New Burger Books Hit the Shelves

20080328-bookz.jpgMan does not live by burger alone. Were that the case, we'd all blindly consume the stale-bunned, hockey pucks at the nearest McKing. True burger fans hunger for a deeper understanding of their favorite food, and, luckily, two books that lavish obsessive attention on this dish are hitting bookstores in April.

The end of the month will mark the publication of Josh Ozersky's The Hamburger: A History (April 22) and George Motz's Hamburger America (April 8; though it's already in some stores).

And while two burger books in one month might seem a bit much, they're two very different and complementary works.

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George Motz on ABC News: 'The Battle of the Burgers'

The other week, we mentioned that our friend George Motz would be on ABC news discussing burgers. Here's a clip of his appearance:

A Major Beef! Who Invented the Hamburger? [ABCnews.com]

The Burger Birthplace Battle: New Haven Fires Back

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Photograph from the Flickr photostream of the real janelle

Remember all that hullaballo about the birthplace of the burger? How New Haven, Connecticut, and Athens, Texas, were going back and forth on this? How Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky wrote an op-ed in the Los Angeles Times about this? Well, New Haven just fired a retaliatory nah-nah-boo-boo strike:

Nobody disputes that Louis' has served its hamburgers longer than any other restaurant. The oldest continuously published newspaper in America thereby declares the oldest continuing hamburger joint in America the authentic one. So there.

Hamburger Hooey [Hartford Courant; via Barry Popik. Thanks, Barry!]

MORE ON LOUIS' LUNCH
Here's a video we produced over on Serious Eats about Louis' Lunch.

Roadfood at Louis' Lunch

Dear AHT readers,

Wassup?!? Adam here. So I've mentioned it before, and blah blah blah, but A Hamburger Today is now part of SeriousEats.com, where I'm working as managing editor. No reason to worry that this site will change in any really funky way, etc., or that we're going to get stuffy around here, what with the word serious thrown in there. What it DOES mean is that we have access to some cool new resources and new friends. Among them are Jane and Michael Stern of Roadfood.com.

Over at Serious Eats, we've been producing a series of short videos starring the couple, in which they travel to some seriously quirky and seriously good food destinations. Anyway, one of our recent Roadfood episodes is on Louis' Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut. You might know it from experience or from the many posts we've done on the place recently. Well, if you want to get to know it a little better, click the image below to go watch our short video. Even if you don't agree that Louis' Lunch is the burger's birthplace, you've got to admire the characters who staff the joint—and you'll dig their cool method of cooking the patties.

—Adam (aka The Mgmt.)

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Roadfood: Louis' Lunch [Serious Eats]

Burger Origin Smackdown

Oooh, boy.

Burger expert Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky rears his head in the Los Angeles Times with an op-ed piece on the recent kerfuffle about the burger's birthing grounds. Mr. Ozersky's comments are borne of the research he's doing for an upcoming scholarly tome (to be published by Yale University Press) on the history of the hamburger.

First on Texas's claim:

My research assistant, Andrea Murphy, and I have painstakingly looked through the Tribune's archives and can safely say that this report does not exist. Furthermore, there is no Fletcher Davis on the fair's concession list. In fact, we found no documentary evidence for Texas' claim at all.

Then on Louis' Lunch's claim:


... the next hamburger Louis' Lunch serves will be its first. The restaurant makes a broiled ground-beef patty that is served on toast. Such a sandwich is, historically and semiotically speaking, not a hamburger. The hamburger as a recognized entity is a ground-beef patty on some form of yeast bun. Can Louis' really claim that nobody ever put ground beef on two slices of bread before? The Earl of Sandwich himself might have done that. In fact, an 1894 article in the Los Angeles Times described a late-night food vendor who sold tamales to drunks — along with "trotters, ham, egg and hamburger steak sandwiches" —one year before Louis' Lunch was founded.

And, to fan the fire, A Hamburger Today has some additional material from lexicographer Barry Popik that we will publish soon....

Want lies with your burger? [Los Angeles Times]

Burger History Has Actual Historians Stumped

Yesterday we mentioned the controversy over the birthplace of the burger, in which we admitted to "web-based research." The good news is that we have real historians interested in the topic; the bad news is that they're as confounded as everyone else. From American Heritage magazine's Mysteries of American History file. As our source for this link said, "The dispute seems to hinge on whether the lump of chopped beef was served on bread or a roll, and whether the roll was a true hamburger roll, and other such Jesuitical distinctions."

Around 1900 Louis’ Lunch in New Haven was serving a broiled beef-patty sandwich, but that was on sliced bread, not the roll, as essential to the classic hamburger as potatoes are to clam chowder. I managed to trace a rapid infiltration of a “hamburger” item into lunch wagons and carnival lots well before World War I but turned up no definite point where the roll took over. People kept telling me roll-hamburgers first appeared at the St. Louis World’s Fair of 1904. But local archives had no trace of such a thing, nor did Thomas Hart Benton when I asked him about it: "No, sir, I had a growing boy’s appetite, and I was all over that fair every day—no hamburgers."

In an editor's note to that item, American Heritage says:

Light on this comes from Thomas C. Dolly, of Omaha, Nebraska, who describes himself as an “old-time drive-in operator” and who sent us a monograph he prepared on the growth of the hamburger chains. Dolly cites Walter Anderson, a Wichita, Kansas, diner operator who “invented the fast-food hamburger, which ultimately changed the eating habits of America and a sizable portion of the world.” In 1916 Anderson “found that by mashing a ball of ground beef flat and frying at high temperature [he] not only speeded up the cooking time, but vastly improved the flavor and texture as well.” Thus inspired, Anderson went on to invent the modern grill and finally talked a Wichita bakery into creating a special bun for him. On this foundation he built the White Castle chain.

And the point goes to KANSAS! Where's the beef, baby!

Who Invented the Hamburger? [AmericanHeritage.com, 13th item]
Burger Beginnings [AmericanHeritage.com, final item]

Photograph from the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Reading Room

Battle Over Who Made the First Burger

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Photograph from the Flickr photostream of the real janelle

Don't mess with Texas.

A state legislator there is embroiled in a burger battle with Louis' Lunch of New Haven, Connecticut, over which state can claim to be the birthplace of the hamburger.

Louis' Lunch, which opened in 1895, claims to have come up with the marvelous idea in 1900, when a hurried customer requested something he could eat on the run. Republican state representative Betty Brown, however, has proposed a resolution in the Texas legislature declaring Athens, Texas, as rightful birthing ground, noting that Fletcher Davis sold burgers from a luncheonette there in the late 1800s.

Things have gotten heated. Says New Haven mayor John DeStefano Jr.:

"It's a well-known and established fact that New Haven is the home of the hamburger. In fact, New Haven's claim to the hamburger is even supported and documented in the Library of Congress."

In our own research (admittedly web-based), we found yet another city calling itself the home of the burger: Seymour, Wisconsin. There, in 1895, it's said that "Hamburger" Charlie Nagreen started selling the mighty meaty sandwich. (Here's AHT's History of the Hamburger post.) If it came down to it, AHT would put its money on "Hamburger Charlie," if only because Wisconsin happens to be the birthplace of this site's founder.

This is a debate that will never be resolved, we think, only because there seems to be scant hard evidence as to who and when invented the burger as we know it.

Texas lawmaker challenges burger history [Wilkes-Barre Times-Leader]

A Piece of Maryland Burger History: For Sale

Longtime Baltimore–D.C.-area residents may remember the White Castle–like Little Tavern. DCist.com reports that one of the few remaining stores of the onetime 50-strong chain is up for sale.

The lonely Laurel branch has real street cred, with original (read: decaying) barstools and floor tiles. Their motto remains the same: "Buy 'Em by the Bag." Oh, and this Little Tavern is for sale.

LITTLE TAVERN
Location: 115 Washington Blvd S., Laurel MD 20707-4327 [map]
Phone: 410-792-9364

Laurel Little Tavern Restaurant [LoopNet]

[Via DCist]

Photo Gallery: Hamburgers, A Pictorial History

Yesterday, we used a photograph of a farmer eating a burger at a cornhusking contest in Marshall County, Iowa, to illustrate an entry here. It's from the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Online Catalog. Below, we offer a look at other noteworthy burger photos we dug up from the available online collection.

Most of the photos here were taken by Russell Lee (right; 1903–1986), who was invited to join the federally funded Farm Security Administration as part of a team of photographers charged with documenting the plight of the rural poor during the Depression. (Esther Bubley, Jack Delano, and Arthur Rothstein, whose photos are also represented below, were members of the project as well.)

These photos are truly a fascinating scrapbook of hamburger—and American—history, and they're available for reproduction online at the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Reading Room (search the catalog for "hamburger"). Dig in!

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McDonaldSpace

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Entry by Hamburglar HadleyMany people agree that having one less McDonald's is not necessarily a bad thing, but the recent removal of the old school McDonald's at Highland and Sunset in Hollywood is a sad departure of a North American icon. Rather than a standard issue McDeez, this small white hut was a relic from the 1950s, when McDonald's first began. It featured steeple-esque roofing and a gigantic statue-sign of the chain's original mascot, Speedee the Chef, a cuter, simpler precursor to the bad-acid-trip-recalling, HR Pufnstuf rip-offs that now rule McDonaldland (RIP Mac Tonight).

20050901McDarch.jpgSo Speedee, who would glow in neon come nightfall and reveal a questionable lump in his trousers, has been offed, leaving merely a maze of gang graffiti covering his sad remains.

With In-N-Out and even Carl's Jr. as neighbors, I guess this change was inevitable. But we would have rather seen the McDonald's on Hollywood Boulevard—dubbed the most expensive McDonald's in existence, with a giant movie marquee announcing itself but a fairly lackluster interior—removed than this small slice of our hamburger heritage. So it goes sometimes. At least the oldest existing McDonald's still resides somewhere out on Lakewood Boulevard in Downey and still sports a giant Speedee with that old school burger-stand style.

On the other end of the McDonald's funding universe, I spotted this corporate-style McDonald's in San Diego's downtown recently, blending into the landscape of steel and glass. I kind of like it and have learned as long as we have to have McDonald's, maybe it's preferable to have them buck the cookie-cutter spaces for some ingenuity. We'll always recognize those golden arches from a mile away.

Also, if any readers have any pictures of the passed Sunset–Highland McDonalds, I’d love to see once again what it looked like and share it on AHT.

Burger Fest 2005

So why did we post earlier today about the history of hamburgers? Because we wanted to give readers a little insight into the confusing matter before pointing out that today in Seymour, Wisconsin, BurgerFest is going on as we, uh, type.

Seymour, as you read earlier, claims to be the birthplace of the hamburger, where in 1885 "Hamburger Charlie" Nagreen flattened the meatballs he was selling at the fair, stuck them between some bread, and named the resulting sandwich for the Hamburg steaks eaten by the area's German-immigrant population.

The fest includes a car show, a "bun run" for kids, the "world's largest Hamburger Parade," the unveiling of the Hamburger Charlie statue (right), a Hardee's Thickburger eating contest, and a "ketchup slide contest" (we can only imagine).

There's probably plenty of burgers to eat there, too.

The History of the Hamburger

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When you look into the history of hamburgers in the U.S., you'll find sources proclaiming the inventor to be (from left) Louis Lassen, "Hamburger Charlie" Nagreen, or the Menches Brothers.

20050806Mongols.jpgThe history of the hamburger is truly a story that has been run through the meat grinder. Some sources say it began with the Mongols, who stashed raw beef under their saddles as they waged their campaign to conquer the known world. After time spent sandwiched between the asses of man and beast, the beef became tender enough to eat raw—certainly a boon to swift-moving riders not keen to dismount.

It is said, then, that the Mongols, under Kublai Khan later brought it to Russia, which turned it into the dish we know as steak tartare.

Several years later, as global trade picked up, seafarers brought this idea back to the port city of Hamburg, Germany, where the Deutschvolk decided to mold it into a steak shape and add heat to the equation, making something that, outside of Hamburg, was referred to as "Hamburg steak."

Of course, as it's been pointed out on the comments on this site and in John T. Edge's book Hamburgers & Fries, that's wishful thinking. As Mr. Edge writes, "The history of proletarian dishes like hamburgers is rarely explained by a linear progression of events."

But enough fishing in European and Asian waters; let's cut bait here. Somehow ground beef gets to America. Somehow it's put on a bun. But by whom? Surely the historical record becomes more clear once we cross to these shores.

It doesn't. There are currently three major claims staked on the confusing and contradictory map of American hamburger history. Each has its adherents and detractors. They are:

Louis' Lunch: This New Haven, Connecticut, burger joint claims to have invented our favorite lunchtime (and dinnertime) meal in 1900. From its website: "One day in the year 1900 a man dashed into a small New Haven luncheonette and asked for a quick meal that he could eat on the run. Louis Lassen, the establishment's owner, hurriedly sandwiched a broiled beef patty between two slices of bread and sen the customer on his way, so the story goes, with America's first hamburger."

"Hamburger Charlie" Nagreen: It's said that he started selling meatballs at the age of 15 at the summer fair in Seymour, Wisconsin. But, homeofthehamburger.org says, "Charlie was a resourceful young man with an outgoing personality. After not experiencing much success selling the meatballs, he had an idea and located some bread. He realized people could take this meal with them if he simply smashed the meat together between two pieces of bread. He called it a "hamburger" and yes, in 1885 the burger was born at the fair in Seymour, Wisconsin."

Menches Brothers: The brothers' descendents, who now operate a small chain in Ohio called, not surprisingly, Menches Bros. claim that their great-grandfather and his brother (Charles and Frank, respectively) invented the dish at an 1885 fair in Hamburg, New York. The brothers originally sold sausages but ran out and were forced to use ground beef, which at the time was considered declassé. John Menches, in a Businessweek story, says, "Faced with nothing to sell at all, they fried [the ground beef] up, but it was too bland. My grandfather decided to put coffee, brown sugar, and some other household ingredients in it and cooked up the sandwich. My great-uncle Frank served the first sandwich, a gentleman tasted it and said, 'What do you call it?' Uncle Frank didn't really know what to call it, so he looked up and saw the banner for the Hamburg fair and said, 'This is the hamburger.' "

So who invented the hamburger? Take your pick. We're too ground down at this point to choose.

Hey Hamburger, Happy Birthday!

072805burger-birhtday.jpgToday, our BFF, the hamburger, turns 105 years old. It was on July 28th, 1900 that Louis Lassen—proprietor of Louis' Lunch—first put a hamburg steak between two pieces of bread. Truth be told, it's unlikely that this was the very first burger, but the Library of Congress records this as the official birth of our favorite sandwich. Both Hamburger & Fries and What's Cooking America give much more thorough histories of the burger.

For your own knowledge, the earliest days of the burger began with Ghengis Kahn. What's Cooking America recounts the beginnings of the hamburger:

Genghis Khan (1167-1227), crowned the "emperor of all emperors," and his army of fierce Mongol horsemen, known as the "Golden Horde," conquered two thirds of the then known world. The Mongols were a fast-moving, cavalry-based army that rode small sturdy ponies. They stayed in their saddles for long period of time, sometimes days without ever dismounting. They had little opportunity to stop and build a fire for their meal. The entire village would follow behind the army on great wheeled carts they called "yurts," leading huge herds of sheep, goats, oxen, and horses. As the army needed food that could be carried on their mounts and eaten easily with one hand while they rode, ground meat was the perfect choice. They would use scrapings of lamb or mutton which were formed into flat patties. They softened the meat by placing them under the saddles of their horses while riding into battle. When it was time to eat, the meat would be eaten raw, having been tenderized by the saddle and the back of the horse.

Of course, the next big step was in Hamburg, Germany, hence the name, but we'll not go there. Both options listed above can give you the whole story.

Although the day is almost over for those of us on the East Coast, might we suggest you head out to your favorite burger joint and grab a burger. If not tonight, then this weekend. And when you're there, be sure to geek out, take some photos and post them on flickr so we can live through you vicariously.

The picture at the top is of Louis Lassen manning the grill at Louis' Lunch.

Looks Who's McFifty

McDonald's celebrated its 50th birthday today by opening its 50th anniversary restaurant in Chicago. Ray Kroc, who for all intents and purposes founded the McDonald's corporation we know today, opened his first McDonald's burger stand in Des Plaines, Illinois, about 20 miles northwest of Chicago, after striking a deal with the original McDonald brothers, who founded their joint in San Bernardino, California.

We at A Hamburger Today have a love-hate relationship with Micky D's, as I'm sure a lot of you do. When we were young, it was a special treat, and we fondly remember tearing into the cardboard Happy Meal boxes in anticipation of the special toy that was included. As we grew older, though, and our tastes for hamburgers developed a greater sophistication, we came to realize that the prizes were nothing more than cheap junk—a description that could also double for the burgers.

Still, sometimes we crave the weird, unmistakable taste of the burgers we grew up on. And the fries, if done right, are as delicious as ever. And how can you not love the 50th anniversary restaurant (see illustration, top-right image)?

The chain's ubiquity nationwide—and worldwide—make it hard to fathom that it is only 50 years old. And to think it started when Mr. Kroc happened upon the original McDonald brothers' burger stand while working as distributor of the Multimixer machine that the brothers used to brew up milkshakes.

Hmm. Sounds like an order of fries and a shake are in order for a quick after-work snack tonight.

Images from McDonald's (top) and AP (bottom).

Menches Bros.: The Original Hamburger?

20050408Menches.jpgFrom Businessweek:

John Menches [CEO of Menches Bros. Original Hamburgers] had always been told his great-grandfather invented the hamburger in 1885. But for decades, this was little more than legend and lore at family reunions. Then in 1991, Menches and his siblings stumbled across the original recipe among some old papers their great-grandmother left behind. So, they took out some ground beef, added brown sugar, coffee, and some other ingredients, and discovered one great hamburger.

There are a few different stories detailing the origin of the hamburger, and this one fleshes out the notion that it was invented in Hamburg, New York. The story includes a Q&A:

Q: How did your great-grandfather invent the hamburger?
A: Our great-grandfather Charles and his brother Frank were traveling concessionaires back in 1885. They did the Hamburg fair, which is located about eight miles south of Buffalo. They were a 100-man operation. They were really noted for their sausage sandwich. The fair was run in August. It was too hot, and they ran out of sausage. It was too hot to butcher because there was no refrigeration, and the meat wouldn't have turned out very well.

They were talked into using ground beef, which back then was a little taboo. Fairs were where the highest of society met, and ground beef was more for lower-class people, so they didn't think they'd be successful with it. Faced with nothing to sell at all, they fried it up, but it was too bland.

My grandfather decided to put coffee, brown sugar, and some other household ingredients in it and cooked up the sandwich. My great-uncle Frank served the first sandwich, a gentleman tasted it and said, "What do you call it?" Uncle Frank didn't really know what to call it, so he looked up and saw the banner for the Hamburg fair and said, "This is the hamburger."

A Hamburger's Tasty Legacy [Businessweek]

Burger by Location

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