In Williamsburg, Diner and Its Burger Are Anything but Typical
If it's Tuesday, it must be time for another review from Nick Solares. Nick is also the publisher of Beef Aficionado, his blog that explores beef beyond burgerdom.
Editor's note: Ladies and gents, I introduced you to Nick "Beef Aficionado" Solares when he debuted on A Hamburger Today a couple weeks ago, but I'd like to point out this morning that he'll be showing up each week on Tuesday morning with his signature mouthwatering photos and thoughtful reviews of New York–area burger joints. Here's his latest. Dig in! —The Mgmt.
Diner
85 Broadway, Brooklyn NY 11211 (at Berry Street; map); 718-486-307
dinernyc.com
Short Order: Burgers made from grass-fed beef often turn out dry and tough. At Diner, however, the in-house butcher, freshly ground meat, and perfect cooking technique make for a fine sandwich
Want Fries with That? Pale-looking fries are actually crisp with a tender interior that tastes like potato
Price: $12; comes with fries
Not to be confused with the Brooklyn Diner that Adam so enjoyed last week, which is confusingly located in Manhattan, Diner is located in Brooklyn—Williamsburg, to be specific.
If I had to describe Diner in two words, they would be bohemian eclectia. Dating back almost a decade, Diner certainly anticipated the burgeoning of Williamsburg as a cultural and culinary destination. The restaurant takes its name from the fact that it is situated in a 1920s Kullman diner and is certainly not named for its menu, which, aside from a few staples including a hamburger, changes nightly and is far more avant garde than the restaurant's name suggests. You won't find pancakes here, but you will find savory crepes. And, while they offer steak, it is pasture-fed and dry-aged in house.
In one of the more impressive feats of waitressing, the entire menu is memorized and recounted for each table with exacting detail. The waitress frantically scribbles each course with a pencil onto the paper that lines your table (right) as she effortlessly lists them, often giving specifics beyond just the dish, furnishing one with the knowledge of the provenance of the fresh, locally sourced seasonal ingredients and method of preparation.
The restaurant is located in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge, and, despite its narrow confines, offers booth, table, and bar seating as well as outdoor dining. The decor is a heterogeneous mix of tile, glass, and metal and perfectly complements the food.
