[Photographs: Max Falkowitz]

In his latest New York restaurant review, Max Falkowitz reviews M. Wells Steakhouse, where, as he explains, "much of the menu makes no fucking sense." Here's one example: the Bone-In Burger ($17).

Actually, it's pretty self-explanatory: it's a burger with a giant bone sticking out of it. The bone is easily removed. Here's Max's description of it:

For all its ribbed tromp l'oeil, it's ultimately one more cheffy burger in a town full of cheffy burgers. The brisket and aged trim grind is undone by over-compacting, overcooking, and a flood of shallot jam and tartar sauce.

Max initially planned on writing a separate post about the burger, but it wasn't good enough to warrant one. [insert sad trombone]

M. Wells Steakhouse serves plenty of other great dishes worth your while; you're in for a good time whenever chef Hugue Dufour is at the helm. Just skip the burger.


About the author: Robyn Lee is the editor of A Hamburger Today and takes many of the photos for Serious Eats. She'll also doodle cute stuff when necessary. Read more from Robyn at her personal food blog, The Girl Who Ate Everything.

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