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[Photographs: Lacey Muszynski]

Brisco County Wood Grill

N96 W16865 Cumberland Court, Menomonee Falls WI 53051 (map); 262-251-8444; briscocounty.net
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Western-themed, jack-of-all-trades restaurant serving up super juicy burgers with lots of seasoning
Want Fries With That? If fries coated in a thin batter are your thing, you'll like them here
Price: Aztec burger, $8.95; quesadilla burger, $9.95; jalapeño poppers, $7.45

There's a distinct lack of decent restaurants in the Menomonee Falls area, a suburb northwest of Milwaukee. Not much stands out, and it's all relatively mediocre. I haven't done a burger in that area though, so decided it was time.

I settled on Brisco County Wood Grill. Judging by the fact that the website (and menu) touts a "Best Burgers in Milwaukee" award from the local paper, I figured it was a good bet. I had my reservations though because I've done quite a lot of burger research in the area and this place doesn't come up much, even though it supposedly won that award.

Well, in Googling after my visit, I can't find any evidence that they did in fact win any burger awards from the Journal Sentinel. And based on my experience, they definitely should not win for "best burger in Milwaukee" anyway, so I'm not surprised.

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Aztec Burger.

That's not to say the burger was bad, but it was definitely not the best in Milwaukee—Menomonee Falls, maybe, though I'm not at liberty to say since I haven't tried many there. What stood out most was the beef, which was extremely juicy for being cooked past the requested medium. It was heavily seasoned too, so much so that you could see the seasoning, and taste it distinctly, if you happened to get a seed of fennel. It had big, bold flavors, reminding me of those chunky steak seasonings in the spice aisle.

Juices ran out of the burger with every bite, especially the first one, like you had just wrung out a sponge. It was a little bit disconcerting, really, and it reminded me of other burgers I've had that inject beef broth into the patty.

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The patty's flavor was good though, spurred on by the heavy seasoning and wood fire grilling that created some great grill marks and char. The beef's flavor meshed well with the slightly smoky chipotle mayo sauce on the Aztec Burger ($8.95). The spicy sauce melted into the beef since it was located under the thick layer of cheddar cheese.

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A Quesadilla Burger ($9.95) is the restaurant's answer to a patty melt. It's their standard half-pound burger patty sandwiched between two tortillas with bacon, cheese, and pico, then crisped up on a flat top. It was better than I was expecting it to be, mostly because it was nicely browned and crunchy on the outside. The bacon's smokiness complemented the char on the burger, but I wish the pico had been fresher. More cheese would've kept the whole thing together better, too. It's an interesting option, though, and probably appreciated by those who don't like pillowy buns.

The fries were coated in a thin batter. Think Burger King fries, only thicker and with a slightly less homogenous coating. I'm not a fan of battered fries, so there were not a favorite. I imagine people who enjoy Burger King's fries would enjoy this upgrade too.

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Definitely skip the Jalapeño Poppers from the appetizer menu. Six poppers for $7.45 was ridiculous and the peppers were tough.

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If you can overlook the weird possibly enhanced-with-broth thing, the burgers are good. The place was jumping on a late Saturday afternoon by the time we left, so I suspect area residents think so too.

About the author: Lacey Muszynski is an editor, freelance writer and restaurant reviewer from Milwaukee, WI. When she's not burgerblogging on AHT, she might be updating her food blog, making fun of the Food Network, or wondering what her art degree has to do with all of this. Her idols growing up included Martin Yan, Chairman Kaga, and whoever was on Great Chefs, Great Cities that day.

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