[Photographs: Damon Gambuto]

The Pineapple Saloon & Grill is part of a phenomenon here in Los Angeles that was, in my early days navigating the city, seemingly inscrutable: the worthwhile strip mall restaurant. It seemed so odd that a dedicated restaurateur should decide to set up shop in the least attractive necessity of American car culture commerce. But over the years, one revelation after another (such as Sushi Nozawa, Lou, and Hirozen) has made these kinds of restaurants almost normal. When I heard Pineapple Saloon & Grill was under new management I thought it was time to check in on this classic bar in the Sherman Oaks section of the San Fernando Valley.

I say "classic" because Pineapple Hill lays claim to 30 years of slinging burgers and drinks—no mean feat in a city as competitive and fickle as Los Angeles. It hasn't garnered much institutional acclaim over those years, but with the advent of the internet and sites like Yelp the community that has kept it in business has come into focus: a collection of dedicated regulars and folks looking for honest, simple food. This is the kind of place that excites me more than any other. Unfortunately, Pineapple Hill's glory days seem to be in the rearview mirror.

The Hill Burger is a build-your-own affair, starting with an onion bun, eight ounces of fresh-ground chuck, Thousand Island, and, interestingly, grilled onions. They give some suggestions that add bacon and cheese and, not surprisingly, pineapple. I kept it simple by just adding American cheese. The burger also came with a little lettuce and tomato. Given the choice, I'd normally think through adding a tomato, but when it's a green-centered round like the one Pineapple Hill served me, it's fait accompli that I skip it.

Let's start with the good. The patty was cooked to a proper medium rare and ground to a pleasing medium coarseness.

Ok, that's about all the good I've got for you. The patty wasn't seasoned well. The bun was crumbly and the onion on top baked to a sour darkness. The grilled onions on the burger itself were also overcooked, so rather than adding a welcome sweetness, they gave an unwelcome bitter note.

I guess I shouldn't be so quick to dismiss all of the elements of the burger. The cheese was properly melted and Thousand Island not overpowering, but I think the expectation of a place with this much history made the ordinary burger a bigger let down than it might otherwise have been.

The fries were medium cut and frozen, two things that don't predetermine greatness or failure. In this case, they came off much like the burger: nothing special, but not terrible.

This is the overall dilemma I have with Pineapple Hill. The burger is beloved by the regulars, but I don't think they love the food quite as much as they love the whole experience of the place. Walking into this dimly-lit, old school bar is a welcome reprieve from the blistering heat of The Valley, and the burger is completely acceptable. Put the two together and you've got a place that will keep them coming back. But I was hoping for more from this classic spot. Perhaps the new management will look into making some minor changes in their burgers so that Pineapple Hill will be guaranteed another 30 years.

About the author: Damon is one of our roving burger reporters and food writers. When he's not eating more than is warranted or healthful (and then writing about it) he can be found writing and producing for television and film. You can contact him at seriouslydamon@gmail.com.

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