[Photographs: Damon Gambuto]

For a certain subset of people who make their way to Los Angeles to pursue their dreams, eating at Bird's is a rite of passage. It's located on the strip of Franklin Avenue that marks the center of the "young Hollywood" set, which means if you find yourself dreaming of a life in the film and television, you'll end up eating at Bird's at some point.

In my bygone days palling around with young actors, I had my fair share of meals there. Back then the theater next door played host to shoe-string productions, but has since become the West Coast home to the accomplished comedy troop The Upright Citizens Brigade. On any given night, you'll see a cross-section of its aspirants and notable alumni (Amy Poehler, Fred Armisen, Will Ferrell, et al.). Although Bird's definitely makes for good people watching, the eating has always been rather programmatic—the conventional wisdom is to order the chicken (not surprising considering the name). But after a recent lunch there, I think you'd do all right ordering their burger too.

I went with their cheddar cheeseburger, which comes with grilled onions on top and the normal fixings on the side. I opted out of the tomato (which I am finding less and less necessary on my burgers) but did add the lettuce and pickle. The bun was a standard Kaiser roll, which was surprising for two reasons. First off, it's an odd choice for a burger; the stiff and chewy texture always seems a bit too domineering for a proper patty. Second, I barely ever see these buns in Los Angeles. In New York City you can't walk two blocks without finding a bodega that uses them for their egg sandwiches (their perfect usage, in my book), but in Los Angeles they rarely turn up.

I was worried about the beef-to-bun ratio considering how overpowered by the bun the patty looked, but looks can be deceiving—well, at least partially. The beef to bun ratio was indeed tipped in favor of the bread to this burger's detriment, but certainly not to its undoing. The beef itself (80/20 chuck) was beautifully cooked to my medium rare preference with a noticeable crust that shined through all that bread.

The grilled onions were softened to a golden hue, which is usually past their prime for my taste, but these still maintained the sweetness that makes grilled onions such a good complement to a burger. The lettuce and pickle were unremarkable, but certainly not detractors. With a bit of added mayo and ketchup, the overall impact of this burger was actually pretty satisfying. It had most of the classic notes that make for an enjoyably predictable flavor. Although a switch up to a commercial bun in proper proportion to the beef would undoubtedly make this a better burger, it's one I'd order again as is. The Kaiser toll got a decent toasting and the cheddar cheese upped the fat content to help with its inherent heft.

The curly cut fries that come along for the ride aren't equals of the burger. They had a nice potato flavor and were passably crispy, but they lacked any seasoning. Note to Birds: Salt your fries when the are hot out of the oil and you'll immediately make them a better side.

Bird's burger isn't among the elite burgers in town by any stretch, but that needn't be the bar that every burger need clear. Sometimes you just want something satisfying and familiar to along with your beer, which is exactly how I'd recommend a Bird's burger. The happy hour is a raucous and cheap time to head in for some drinks and food, and if you're looking for an after show bite, you could do far worse than this spot.

About the author: Damon is one of our roving burger reporters and food writers. When he's not eating more than is warranted or healthful (and then writing about it) he can be found writing and producing for television and film. You can contact him at seriouslydamon@gmail.com.

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