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San Francisco: The Juicy Lucy Butter Burger at Maverick

Maverick
3316 Seventeenth Street, San Francisco CA 94110 (map); 415-863-3061; sfmaverick.com
Cooking Method: Pan-fried
Short Order: A funky-herby-crunchy-oozy concoction that doesn't particularly eat like a burger but wins points for sheer audacity
Want Fries with That? Fluffy and potatoey within; not always quite crisp enough outside
Price: Burger, glass of wine, and fries, $20
Notes: This Tuesday is your last chance to try this creation...at least for a while
Juicy Lucy Butter Burger. Just saying it is a mouthful. And then you look upon the creation offered up by the folks at Maverick in San Francisco, and you think, "Jesus, that is a mouthful!"
Here's the scoop on this thing: Chef Matt Brimer takes Meyer Ranch chuck and literally sends it through the meat grinder with chunks of butter. He forms this butter-meat into two thin patties that he uses to seal in a slice of smoked gouda cheese. The whole thing gets cooked with oil in a cast iron pan, creating a patty encased in a crust about a million miles thick—almost as if it had been deep-fried. Served on an Acme bun, the burger gets topped with a monumental dollop of Sauce Gribiche and a sous vide egg yolk. Some watercress sits beneath the burger, while thin slices of truffled cornichon come alongside. At least, I think they were truffled—honestly, I started to lose track at this point.


So, yeah, there's a lot going on here, and it likely goes without saying that burger purists need not apply. The meat makes its presence known, but it's not front and center in this funky-herby-crunchy-oozy concoction. In fact, I wouldn't say that this ate like a burger at all, but I did wolf it down in about thirty seconds.
Maverick has been serving some version of the butter burger for the past three months as an off-menu, Tuesday-only dinner special. For $20, it comes with a glass of 2009 Poppy Pinot Noir and some fluffy, if not-always-crisp-enough Kennebec potato fries. But the restaurant plans to discontinue the deal at the end of June, which means that this coming Tuesday is the last chance for those of you who want a piece of the butter-beefy action. And Maverick only serves seventeen of these on a given Tuesday night, so get there early.
Though, when general manager/owner Michael Pierce stopped by our table to see what we thought of our dinners, he hinted that butter burgers may yet reappear in Maverick's rotation. It seems the restaurant is entering a period of butter burger R&D as they look for a way to up the ante even further. He said the kitchen staff had recently experimented with a chicken-fried butter burger topped with mashed potatoes and gravy, and even directed me towards the videographic evidence to prove it. I don't know whether to tremble with pleasure or fear.
About the author: David Kover is a San Francisco-based freelance writer and food enthusiast. You can follow him on twitter @pizzakover, mostly because @juicylucybutterburger was taken. (Not really.)
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