Today's reader review comes from Ewan M. (aka UnasBravas on AHT/Serious Eats), a professional soccer writer who loves burgers. He's previously contributed reviews of East Mountain Grill in New Mexico and 12 Burgers in Dallas. Thanks, Ewan! If anyone else wants to share some burger intel, here's how to do it. --The Mgmt.

[Photographs: Ewan M.]

Small, local chain Gazeebo Burgers has been on the go in the north Dallas area for over twenty years. They boast a loyal clientele, with a significant lunch following and a near-cult-like status among families.

Their kid-friendliness was borne out by my visit, which was shortly before 5 p.m. on a Sunday. I was the only customer without a brat in tow. Nonetheless the dining room—oddly but cozily decorated with dark wood and tile—was spacious enough that there was no chance of suffering a rain of ketchup or an eardrum-splitting tantrum.

I ordered the Old Fashioned Cheeseburger featuring a 1/3-pound Angus beef patty, formed broad and cooked medium well. I added on fries.

While the cook got to work—clearly visible behind the cash register, which is always a nice touch—I took a peek at the fixings bar. The usual suspects were there—lettuce, tomato, pickle—as well as red onion, pico de gallo and, of course, jalapeños. Ranch dressing, pickle relish, mayo, and mustard rounded off the options, with ketchup on the table.

My order was duly called, and at first glance the results were already mixed. The burger looked like it had a decent amount of juice and a modest measure of char, but the cheese slice had plainly been placed on at the last second. The bun had been toasted well in advance and was now completely cold. Fries sat in an adjacent basket, looking like, well, fries.

I dressed the burger Texas-style, with some red onions, a few jalapeños, and some mustard. Angus beef, after all, should be able to stand up to toppings. And in fairness, it did: This was a decent cheeseburger. But it was no better than that. The char wasn't pronounced enough to give a Maillard-tastic edge to the burger, while the interior was disappointingly dry and mealy. The toppings certainly helped but all told, this was a dining experience that, while perfectly nice, doesn't exactly scream out for a special visit in future.

As I ate my burger I watched on the big screen as the Oakland Athletics pulverized the Texas Rangers. With In-N-Out now open right into Gazeebo Burgers' back yard, it seems that baseball isn't the only area in which Dallas' favorites face a huge challenge. —UnasBravas

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