Of course we love our mom & pops, and our favorite burger joints around the country are pretty much all independently owned, but there are certain times in life—overnight layovers, hungover Sunday mornings, all-day shopping trips at the outlets—that the only options around are the chains. This column is here to help you decide when to go for the burger, and when you're better off sticking with the chicken fingers.

[Photographs: Erin Jackson]

Ruby's Diner is a burger-centric chain with a fun '40s diner theme. The first location opened in 1982 in a converted bait shop at the end of Balboa Pier in Newport Beach, California, followed by several additional pier locations including Huntington Beach, Malibu, Seal Beach, and Oceanside. All Ruby's locations have iconic diner elements like red vinyl booths, chrome and formica tables, and a soda counter. Some locations go the extra step to recreate a retro vibe, like the Anaheim location, which features a 12-car drive in staffed by roller skating servers.

The menu features over 20 options for burgers, including Classic Burgers, Premium Natural Burgers, sliders, and the new Double Deluxe. I chose the simplest option: a classic cheeseburger.

Ruby's classic cheeseburger has a lot going for it: The beef is coarsely ground and loosely formed; the cheese slice is thick, tangy, and thoroughly melted; and the bun is fresh and topped with sesame seeds. First impression? This burger was looking good.

Unfortunately, the initial high quickly faded. Despite having several of the hallmarks of a good burger, Ruby's beef just wasn't up to snuff. Sure, it was loosely packed, had some tasty, caramelized char, was juicy, and was even cooked to order (as much as you can expect a thin patty to be properly medium rare), but it was sadly lacking seasoning, which made the beef bland and easily overpowered by everything else between the bun. The result: a burger that tasted like a cheese and mayo sandwich.

Another drawback was the bun. Despite providing a good meat to bread ratio, the toasted sesame seed bun was sweet, eggy, and an unfortunate distraction. What ultimately pushed the burger into fast food quality was the overall texture. A thin patty plus gobs of mayo and cheese on a soft bun made for a mono-texture burger with no real substance.

Ruby's classic cheeseburger could hold its own against most fast food burgers, but for the price, you can definitely do better.

Ruby's burgers come with your choice of a few different sides, including "refillable" fries that can be "jazzed" up with Cajun seasoning, garlic, or Parmesan and blue cheese, the option I chose. Unfortunately, despite the fact that the fries were bottomless, there was no need for a refill because I didn't even finish the initial portion. The pale, cafeteria-style fries were served cold and, save from a sprinkling of salty Parmesan, were tasteless. There was no visible blue cheese, and the majority of the Parmesan fell to the bottom of the basket, leaving little more than a faint dusting on the fries.

A milkshake is an essential component of a meal at Ruby's. Of the 20 options, including Oreo Cookie, Black Forest, and Banana Cream Dream, I tried the Chocolate Turtle Shake, which was the undisputed highlight of the meal. The shake was served in tall glass, with a metal tumbler (with more milkshake in it!) on the side. The best part about the thick and creamy shake was it had so much caramel and chocolate sauce (plus candied pecans, whipped cream, and a cherry) that it was like a partially melted sundae. I can't completely stand behind Ruby's burgers and fries, but I definitely endorse this shake.

As a theme restaurant that's a fun place to take the kids, Ruby's is a good option. The burger was perfectly acceptable, though not terribly refined or high quality. In-N-Out makes a better burger that costs a lot less, but certain Ruby's Diner locations, particularly those located on ocean piers, are worth visiting if only to enjoy the view. If your main reason for heading to Ruby's isn't the scenery, the premium burger is probably the better option, or just stick with a shake.

About the author: Erin Jackson is a freelance food writer and photographer who is obsessed with discovering the best cheap and tasty eats in San Diego, including all things sweet and sugary, for her just-hatched dessert blog San Diego Sugar.