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Burger reviews in the San Diego area.

San Diego: Asian Fusion Burgers at JWok

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[Photographs: Erin Jackson]

JWok

744 Market Street, San Diego CA 92101 (map); 619-231-1088‎; jwoksd.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: Tasty half-pound Angus beef burgers with an Asian flavor upgrade
Want Fries With That? No such luck. Burgers are served with assorted potato chunks.
Price: JWok burger, $8.25
Notes: If the massive burger doesn't fill you up, try something from the Asian tapas menu

For months, one particular burger in my East Village stomping grounds has been tempting me. Problem is, the home of this burger is also my go-to spot for pad thai, which is tough to take a pass on. When it comes to food, few things make me sadder than suffering through a disappointing meal when I could have been enjoying one of my favorite dishes instead. A film of what I could have been eating, and how happy I could have been, plays out in my mind, completely ruining the experience. I'm sure some of you can relate.

After seeing several other diners enjoying the burger at JWok, I was confident that I could stray from my usual to try something different, without tragic consequences.

The menu description of JWok's burger mentions that it's made of a half-pound of Angus beef, but little else. Considering the restaurant's signature dish is an Asian twist on a burrito (essentially a large spring roll wrapper stuffed with rice, veggies, and curry chicken), I wasn't expecting a basic burger.

Several things about JWok's burger set it apart from a classic cheeseburger, even though it starts with a thick patty topped with melted American cheese. Instead of the standard LTP, it's topped with bell peppers, mushrooms, and a generous smear of mayo mixed with tom yum paste. The housemade sauce has a similar texture and appearance to Thousand Island dressing, but taste-wise is a massive improvement. The tom yum paste brings four essential Thai flavors to the mix: spicy, sweet, and salty, with a well balanced tang. There was enough mayo on the top and bottom bun to permeate every bite and unite all the burger's components.

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The hand-formed half-pound Angus beef patty had a thick crust marked with crunchy spots of char. It was served well done, which robbed the meat of some juice. However, all was not lost: Despite being a touch overcooked, the patty was still reasonably moist, with an intense beefy flavor that was accentuated by a touch of salt, pepper, and garlic powder.

The bun, unfortunately, was sub-par. The grainy, crumbly, and dry bread was a bad match for such a substantially savory patty; ultimately, it was a distraction. A standard commercial bun would have been a major improvement.

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Instead of the standard fries (or homemade chips, as is listed on the menu), an assortment of fried potato chunks including purple potatoes, sweet potatoes, and russets came with the burger. The potatoes were lightly cooked, which gave them a soft exterior that yielded to a remarkably fluffy interior bursting with potato flavor. Considering the fact that JWok's burger is such a behemoth, the relatively light and healthy side was a great call, though badly in need of some salt.

San Diego's East Village is prime burger hunting territory. With a bun upgrade and a little less time on the grill, JWok's burger could earn a spot on the map, along with Cowboy Star's upscale buffalo burger and the many options at Nicky Rottens.

About the author: Erin Jackson is a freelance food writer and photographer who is obsessed with discovering the best cheap and tasty eats in San Diego. She always saves room for dessert.

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