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Los Angeles: Caveman Kitchen's Burger Needs to Evolve

[Photographs: Damon Gambuto]
Caveman Kitchen
2215 South Vermont Avenue, Los Angeles CA 90007 (map); 323-737-3717; eatcaveman.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: A run-of-the-mill burger that lacks any inspiration.
Want Fries with That? Yes, please; these fresh, thick-cut spuds are far better than the Caveman burger
Prices: 1/4-pound Burger, $2.95; 1/2-pound Burger, $4.35
Notes:Skip the burgers and opt for the serviceable rotisserie chicken.
Burger spots with cutesy names don't usually attract my attention.
Ok, that's not entirely correct: All burger spots attract my attention, but I find the cutesy names tiresome. Of course, names don't make bad burgers; bad meat and buns do. So when my burger-brother-in-arms and fellow burger blogger Farley Elliot invited me to pre-Super Bowl burger at Caveman Kitchen, I put aside my prejudice and made my way to this little eatery.
It's located in a strip mall a few blocks from USC campus, but isn't yet another chain restaurant designed to prey upon the questionable palates of drunken collegians. Rather, Caveman is a genuine family-owned spot just south of the 10 freeway that serves a cross-section of LA's preferred cheap eats. They boast about their Peruvian influenced, wood-fired rotisserie chicken and, more importantly, tasty fresh burgers.

The quarter-pound burger comes with the standard lettuce, tomato, red onion. The bun falls into the commercial category, but is of the "deluxe" variety that always disappoints me. It's a mistake I've run into before from a family run spot. These higher-end buns don't have the appeal of a genuine homemade one and lack the spongy goodness of the standard commercial. That said, it's a forgivable choice if the patty works. Sadly, this one doesn't.

They claim that it's fresh everyday, but mine didn't demonstrate its freshness with its flavor. The grill gave it a noticeable, if not heavy char, but it was cooked well past any juiciness. Combine the overcooking with the lack of seasoning and there's little to recommend about this one. The cheese added some fat and flavor, but it's not enough to save this burger.


The half-pound patty is a better measure to match the substantial bun, but the added meat doesn't argue for this to be your choice. Also overcooked, my half-pound patty had a mealy texture that ended my sampling after just a couple of bites.

On their menu they claim that their Hawaiian 1/2-Pound Burger is a "must try 2 believe" experience. I imagine that is one way of saying it. Mine was bathed in a cloying barbecue sauce and topped with a slice of pineapple that didn't help matters.

The bright spot of my burger lunch came in the form of Caveman's very good fries. They are thick, fresh cut, and full of flavor. I was surprised by just how well rendered they were considering the burger misses, but that didn't stop me from fully enjoying them.
Later in the day I was playing through my Caveman experience as I contemplated the rotisserie chicken I brought home for dinner. Was it worth diving into another meal from the Caveman cookbook after such uninspired burgers? My gluttony said yes, and I was rewarded for it. I genuinely enjoyed my smoky chicken and savory rice and beans. So much so that I might even head back to Caveman when I'm Jonesing for a little chicken—just not for a burger.
About the author: Damon is one of our roving burger reporters and food writers. When he's not eating more than is warranted or healthful (and then writing about it) he can be found writing and producing for television and film.

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