[Photographs: Damon Gambuto]

Aspiring to create a "neighborhood restaurant" would seem like a young chef intentionally under-promising in hopes that his or her creative flourish will get more recognition than it otherwise would. This is what I had imagined to be the case with chef/owner Josh Siegel's The Park (located in the not coincidentally named Echo Park section of Los Angeles). I thought his was a project borne of his preconceived notion about eaters' expectations, but, as I learned, I was the one harboring the prejudice.

Siegel's lack of pretension when creating and talking about his restaurant is really just a dedicated chef's understanding of limitations. In the case of the restaurant's look, the limitations were financial. Rather than imitating design elements that would be out of reach, he chose to make a simple, inviting room that was well within his grasp.

When it came to the menu, he made the smart decision to keep the "American bistro" fare directed squarely at comfort, which means he doesn't have to sacrifice quality or affordability. Of course, few entrées are better suited to this aesthetic than a burger, which, on a chilly Sunday evening, suited me just fine.

Siegel told me that the Park Burger was part of his menu plan from the very beginning. He knew that few items invite comparison more than our beloved burger so he put a little extra time coming up with his. After a number of iterations his landed on a version that compares quite favorably.

His blend is brought to him by the half-century-old purveyor Daniel's and is a tangy mix of sirloin and brisket that boasts a 75/25 meat to fat ratio (hello, juiciness). The bun is from BreadBar and is an actual burger bun rather than the upscaled and mismatched brioche for which so many places opt. The burger comes with a little helping of lettuce, tomato, and onion on the side, but I decided to add a little cheese (Tillamook sharp cheddar) and keep the condiments off my burger to test the meat, bun, and cheese basics. It was the right the decision.

The patty, which Siegel measures out to a precise seven ounces, is an exercise in balance. He feels that six ounces (the original size) is too small and eight a skosh too big. I can't argue with him: The beef to bun ratio is spot on. The bun has the look of being too large, but the profound juiciness of the patty needs a little extra bread to hold it together. The brisket and sirloin blend is earthy and deeply satisfying. It manages to to tease an extra layer of complexity out of the meat. The added cheddar was a welcome addition, though I'm not certain this rich of a burger needs it. If there is a flaw it's to be found in the finer-than-my-preference grind, but certainly this isn't a fatal one.

The crust was solid and the seasoning offered with a measured hand. I tend to like my burgers with a smack of salt, but the added layer of flavor from the brisket meant that this burger was a delight without the heaps of seasoning.

What were sensationally salty and good were the fries. Siegel fresh cuts Russets into skinny fries with skins left on. They get a blanching oil and then a second hit in the Fryolator to order. I was shocked how much I liked these very straightforward spuds. The addition of the skin gave the fries a hint of earthiness that was a great match to my burger. The meal felt entirely worth the very reasonable $10 price tag. Then they told me about Burger Night.

Wednesday nights are Burger Nights at The Park and the deal is dizzying. You get Siegel's excellent burger (or homemade veggie burger) and a side (fries, cole slaw, salad, et al) for just $5. Yes, five bones. It is, as they say, a smoking deal. And don't think you have to eat before 6 p.m. or after midnight. This deal is on all night on Wednesdays which, if you are reading this on the day of its posting, is tonight. Don't be surprised to see me there, but expect a crowd.

The pleasures of The Park extend beyond the very good burger. The menu reflects the breadth of Siegel's many years cooking for a living, yet everything is entirely accessible. (No fanciful forays into molecular gastronomy here.) What Siegel has done is make good on his dreams of what his restaurant should be. When I think a bit more about it, making high quality food at an accessible price point puts plenty of expectation on a chef. The Park is a neighborhood restaurant in all the of the best senses and that's no small compliment.

About the author: Damon is one of our roving burger reporters and food writers. When he's not eating more than is warranted or healthful (and then writing about it) he can be found writing and producing for television and film.