A Hamburger Today
Chapel Hill, NC: Allen and Son Pit Cooked Bar-B-Q
Allen & Son Pit Cooked Bar-B-Q
6203 Millhouse Rd, Chapel Hill NC 27516; map); 919-942-7576
Cooking Method: Griddled
Short Order: A potentially excellent burger is hampered by local law that doesn't allow ground beef to be served at a temperature less than cooked all the way through
Price: Hamburger with chili, onions, and mustard, $5; + 15¢ for cheese
I know, I know: It's a barbecue place. I get it. Before you get all up in arms about me "ordering the wrong thing" or "missing the point" of the place, understand this: AHT is a hamburger blog, and we talk about burgers here. If there's a burger on the menu, it's fair game for review.
With that out of the way, let's talk burgers.
I was at Allen and Sons to eat some of their justifiably hyped barbecue, but when I noticed a table full of construction workers all eating hamburgers my interest was piqued. In fact, Allen and Sons is more of a family-style restaurant than a barbecue joint—the menu offers plenty beyond the 'cue such as fish, chicken, and a wealth of sandwiches, including the massive burgers I was admiring from afar.
Priced at only $5 for a hamburger with mustard, chili, and onions (add a whopping 15¢ for cheese), the burger clocks in at a hefty half pound. I decided to skip the chili on the burger. I also ordered a barbecue plate (that means chopped, vinegared pork in North Carolina) and doubted my eating ability. I turned out to be right: It was a massive amount of food.
The burger looked magnificent, even with my penchant for thin, griddle-cooked smash burgers. The golden sesame studded bun did an admirable job of containing the mass of beef and slick of molten cheese, diced onion, and mustard that cascaded off the patty. I liked the classic roadside flavor profile of the topping combination a lot—tangy cheese, sweet onions, and savory mustard complimented the hearty flavor of the buxom patty. The beef had a decent enough charring on the outside, with a moderately salty crust, but because it was cooked all the way through it was rather dry and, unfortunately, had the texture of meatloaf.
Frankly, it was far too thick and devoid of textural contrast and juiciness to be truly enjoyable. I regretted not getting chili on top—it would have added welcome moisture.
To be fair, Allen and Sons are complying with North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources statute 15A NCAC 18A .2609 [PDF] that "requires pre-ground ground beef and foods containing ground beef to be cooked to an internal temp of at least 155°F (68°C)." While the law is a bit leaner on those who grind in-house (that beef must be cooked to an internal temp of at least 130°F), Allen and Sons doesn't appear to grind their own, or at least is not willing to serve burger at even medium rare. (Thanks to AHT reader pgym for the tip.) That's too bad because if they did cook the burger less, it would make for an unequivocal recommendation.
As it is, I recommend you get the chili on top or somehow convince the kitchen to embrace the rebel spirit of the South and buck the law by sending out a medium or medium rare burger.