PrintThe Burger Lab: The Ins-n-Outs of an In-N-Out Double-Double, Animal-Style
Gone animal. [Photographs: Kenji Alt]
You West Coasters have it easy. Your dogs have yards to run in. Your grapes have vines to grow on. You get to watch the sun setting and the ocean at the same time. You're never faced with the tough decision of Motorino Brooklyn or Motorino Manhattan. Even the darn earth's rotation goes in your favor, letting you sleep three hours later than me every single morning!
And all that before we even mention In-N-Out, perhaps the second most compelling reason to move out west like my wife would like me to*.
I've been a rabid, if underexposed fan of the cult-ish fast food burger joint since I tried my first Double-Double (that's two patties, two slices of cheese) a couple years back. As burgers go, it's an oddity in my book, in that it's not about the beef.
Sure, the fresh-never-frozen patties are tasty enough, but the sandwich is more than that. It's the interplay between the ooey-gooey American cheese, the sweet, darkly-toasted bun, the juicier-than-average tomatoes, the crisp iceberg, the full, un-separated-into-rings slice of onion, and the all-important sweet, tangy, pickle-laden Spread. It's a bomb that's rigged to hit every pleasure center on my brain's taste analyzation terminal (by which I mean my tongue). Salty, sweet, savory, soft, crisp, and fresh. "Overrated", people say? I think not. Let me quote the much more eloquent Nick Solares in saying "In-N-Out at the very least represents the platonic ideal of what a fast food hamburger should be."
Order the burger "Animal Style" off of their not-so-secret menu, and you bring the party to a whole new level. The onion slice gets replaced with a dollop of a sweet, darkly caramelized chopped onions, an extra stack of pickle chips goes underneath the tomato, and the patties get fried with mustard directly on the griddle.
But here's the thing: I've had my share of regular In-N-Out burgers, but never an Animal Style. That's something that needed to change, and stat.
Of course, the biggest problem with In-N-Out is that due to their commitment to freshness, they have a policy of never opening up a location that's not within a day's drive of their meat processing plant in Baldwin Park, California. For us East Coasters, that leaves two options: We lobby to put money into revolutionizing our ground transportation system and wait, or we get off our a*ses and try and make the darn things ourselves.
Option 2 sounds much more fun to me.
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Fresh Frozen
Before I could begin, I'd need to get a good model to work off of.
The Mission: Get a West-Coast-only In-N-Out Animal Style Double-Double to my New York front door with less than 24 hours notice. There was only one man up to this job: I put in a call to my former MIT colleague Marios Assiotis. There are certain things that slightly nerdy Cypriot expats living in San Francisco and working for Microsoft are particularly cut out for.
Needless to say, he jumped at the excuse to hit In-N-Out. $120 in overnight delivery fees later, the UPS man showed up at my door at 9:30 the next morning, golden package in hand.** Inside were two regular Double-Doubles, two Animal Style Double-Doubles, two plain cooked beef patties, two packets of Spread, and one large chunk of dry ice to freak out Dumpling with.
I knew that the flavor of a frozen-then-thawed burger could never compare to the freshness of the original, but nevertheless I felt compelled to resurrect them—not a minor feat in and of itself!
After a totally failed attempt at reheating one whole, I realized that the best way is to separate it into individual components, and reheat each individually, tossing the veg and replacing them with fresh ones. Within the hour, I had my lunch of Zombie In-N-Out burgers:
Why did you disturb my peaceful slumber? [Photograph: Kenji Alt]
Delicious? Certainly. As good as real? Absolutely not. But still, as a research tool to base the rest of my fresh sandwich construction on, it was invaluable.
Spread 'em
I never understood why In-N-Out refers to their sauce as "Spread". Maybe they're just a little too cool for school. In any case, all it is is a basic Thousand Island-style dressing: a mixture of ketchup, mayonnaise, and sweet pickle relish. But as anyone from the Thousand Islands will tell you, not all dressings are created equal. What's the exact ratio of ketchup to mayo? Are there other seasonings involved?
Now, gifted as I am with an extraordinarily delicate and precise palate, I could do this the artistic way, tasting the path to victory, adding a little of this and a bit of that until I'd achieved a good enough balance. But the inner nerd in me is always seeking ways to express itself, so I decided to take the mathematical approach.
According to the In-N-Out nutrition guideline, replacing the Spread with ketchup results in a decrease of 80 calories per sandwich. I know that ketchup has about 15 calories per tablespoon, so If we estimate that an average sandwich has about 2 tablespoons of sauce on it (that's the amount that's inside a single packet), then we can calculate that the Spread has got about 55 calories per tablespoon (110 calories in two tablespoons of Spread minus 30 calories in 2 tablespoons of ketchup = 80 calories difference in the sandwich). With me so far?
It just so happens that relish has about the same caloric density as ketchup (15 calories per tablespoon), and that mayonnaise has a caloric density of 80 calories per tablespoon. Using all of this information and a bit of 7th grade algebra, I was able to quickly*** calculate that the composition of the Spread is roughly 62 percent mayo, and 38 percent ketchup/relish blend:
To calculate the ratio of relish to ketchup, I washed two tablespoons of Spread through a fine mesh strainer, which got rid of the mayo and ketchup, but kept the pickle particles. Two tablespoons of rinsed Spread resulted in 1 teaspoon of strained pickle relish.
So the final Spread formula (rounded to the nearest convenient measure) was: 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons mayonnaise (62 percent), 1 tablespoon ketchup (23 percent), and 2 teaspoons pickle relish (15 percent). Damning the math, I also decided to add a tiny splash of vinegar and pinch of sugar to round out the flavors before moving on to the next phase of the operation.
Sweet Success
A regular Double-Double gets a full slice of onion in between the two patties. Upgrade to an Animal style, and those onions come intensely caramelized, their sweet complexity playing perfectly off the beefy patties. We're talking onions slow-cooked to oblivion, French-onion soup style. They're melted into a near fondue-like consistency.
I've had some experience cooking onions, but my first try at these, done by simply slow cooking a fine dice of onions in a little oil fell miserably short. They were brown alright, but they still had a distinct, crunchy, oniony texture. I was cooking them over the lowest heat possible, but they simply weren't melting—they were threatening to burn before they were sufficiently broken down.
Then I thought—if onion soup-like texture is what I'm after, why don't I use the onion soup method? I slowly caramelized onions in a little oil, then deglazed the pan with a little water and repeated this process several times, allowing the liquid to evaporate and the onions to brown further with each iteration. By doing this, the onions cool as they cook, allowing for slower caramelization, as well as distributing the browned sugars more evenly throughout the mix, improving texture and flavor.
That's 6 whole onions there, cooked down to a single cup of meltingly sweet, spreadable jam.
The Smoking Bun
In-N-Out has their buns custom made for the restaurant, and I briefly considered baking my own buns for this process, but decided against it. I can bake a good loaf of bread, but I've never come across a recipe for a soft, squishy burger bun that's an improvement on the supermarket offerings. To my mind, a Martin's potato roll or an Arnold burger bun is the apex of its form. Just like toilets or my mom's dumplings, the best you can hope for by making them yourself is an interesting variation, not an improvement.
I scanned the supermarket shelves with my frozen Double-Double in hand until I found a bun that matched it perfectly in size: Arnold it is.
The only issue is that the In-N-Out buns are a little darker. A two-minute stay in a 400 degree oven (I used my toaster oven) solved that dilemma handily. And like all good buns, these ones get toasted—nearly burnt in fact. It adds a key component to the flavor, and helps solidify its structure, crucial to keeping the torrent of gooey juices at bay.
How Fatty's the Patty?
Next up: the beef. This was going to be a little bit tougher. All I knew so far from the In-N-Out Food Quality page was that the beef is 100 percent ground chuck and that it's never frozen. That leaves a lot of room for interpretation. How big are the patties? What's the fat ratio?
Well, sizing the suckers was no problem. I simply had my good man Marios ship a couple of cooked plain patties. They both weighed in at precisely 37 grams (1.3 ounces). Accounting for the standard 35 percent loss**** in weight for a well done thin patty, that kicks us up to 57 grams or exactly 2 ounces pre-cooking—that's 1/4 pound for a Double-Double.***** A nice, round number.
As for fat content, it was time to break out the math guns again. My goal was to figure out the amount of fat vs. protein in a single In-N-Out patty. The information I have from their Nutrition Guide:
- A single burger: 16 grams of protein and 19 grams of fat
- A single cheeseburger: 22 grams of protein and 27 grams of fat
- A Double-Double: 37 grams of protein and 41 grams of fat
By subtracting the value of a hamburger from that of a cheeseburger, we can calculate that a single slice of cheese contains 6 grams of protein and 8 grams of fat. Then, subtract the value of a cheeseburger plus the value of a slice of cheese from the value of a Double-Double, and you've got the fat and protein makeup of a single burger patty. It breaks down to 9 grams of protein and 6 grams of fat. Not accounting for both moisture loss and fat rendering during cooking (which in my experience is about equal), that leaves you with a 60 percent lean, 40 percent fat beef blend—a far higher fat percentage than any store-bought ground chuck. No wonder the things are so-darned delicious!
This could mean only one thing: I'd have to grind the beef myself.
I went to the butcher and got the fattiest chuck steaks I could find and ground them without trimming away any of the excess fat.
And by the way, if any of you are still buying pre-ground beef, you should stop this instant! Grinding your own meat is super easy, and is the single best way to give any burger an instant and gigantic upgrade in quality. Do it.
The Full Cast
- The patties: 2 ounces each, pressed flat to 4-inches in diameter
- The bun: Arnold, toasted whole in a 400 degree oven for 2 minutes, cut sides toasted on a lightly greased hot skillet until dark brown
- Pickles: Standard on the Animal-style burger. Four dill chips
- Real American cheese: Thick-sliced, from the deli
- Black pepper: Fresh ground
- Kosher salt: Lots.
- Iceberg lettuce: Fresh, leaves picked, core removed, torn to bun-size
- Tomato: The best hothouse tomatoes I could find, sliced 1/4-inch thick
- Spread: Tangy, sweet, creamy, delicious
- Caramelized onions: The stuff dreams are made of
- Yellow mustard: Signature Animal-Style trick (more on this later)
After carefully studying photographs and performing several meticulous autopsies on my frozen burger cadavers, I derived that the sandwich is built by first laying a mortar foundation of 2 tablespoons sauce on the toasted bottom bun, along with a layer of pickles slices for the Animal Style version. Next comes the tomato, followed by the lettuce.
As for the patties, Animal Style is described only as "mustard grilled," which in my book, is not all that well defined. For the complete rundown, I turned again to my spy network (a.k.a. my Facebook fan base) for support. I was almost immediately aided with photos (thanks Joe Sparks!) and detailed descriptions from past (thanks Dave Tytell!) and current employees.
The process is simple: Sear the patty on one side, and squirt some mustard on it as it sizzles. Flip the patty over so that the mustard cooks into the second side.
The patties are covered with the cheese, then the caramelized onions are applied liberally to a single patty before topping it with the second, fusing all the elements together into a single cheesy, beefy, sweet, oniony, gooey, salty, oozy, crispy, meaty, savory, melty, delicious mess. American food don't get much better than this!
So there I had it: my first taste of an honest-to-goodness, scientifically re-constructed Animal Style Double-Double clone. Would it compare with the real thing? Honestly, I didn't care—it was that good******.
Indeed, the only thing I can think of that would improve this burger is if it were available across the entire nation or—dare I say it?—the world.
Now about those Animal Style fries...
* Reason #1 is the burger at Pie 'n Burger in Pasadena
** If anyone has ever wondered what's in the Pulp Fiction Briecase, it's frozen In-N-Outs.
*** Full Disclosure: I completely forgot 7th grade algebra, spent 30 minutes trying to figure this out, then gave up and emailed my really smart wife.
**** Which I've calculated through ruthless efficiency and an almost fanatical devotion to the burger
***** The same size as a Shack Burger, by the way. And a Quarter Pounder, for that matter.
****** Still, if anyone in CA feels like going on joining me for an In-N-Out run to do an actual side-by-side tasting next time I'm there, I'm game!
Continue here for a Homemade In-n-Out Animal Style Double-Double »
Got a suggestion for an upcoming topic? Email Kenji here, and he'll do his best to answer your queries in a future post. Become a fan of The Food Lab on Facebook or Twitter for play-by-plays on future kitchen tests and recipe experiments. About the author: After graduating from MIT, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt spent many years as a chef, recipe developer, writer, and editor in Boston. He now lives in New York with his wife, where he runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and runs the collaborative blog GoodEater.org about sustainable food enjoyment.
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119 Comments:
In-N-Out is probably the most overrated burger joint on the planet. I am certain your burger recipe here would far surpass anything they make. Thanks for posting it.
Garvey at 10:36AM on 07/23/10
Great post!
The Kenji Homemade In-n-Out Animal Style Double-Double looks awesome!
If you need a CA based taste-tester, just say the word. I am a couple of miles from an In-N-Out in SF.
Only 3 more hours until In-N-Out opens - need to get me a Double-Double Animal Style.
sfmitch at 10:38AM on 07/23/10
$120 in FedEx fees? Just what is the SE budget now?
shoneyjoe at 10:43AM on 07/23/10
@Garvey
All I know is that In-N-Out is damn good - there is no contest to any other fast food joint (that is available in the SF bay area - I can't speak to elsewhere).
In-N-Out makes great burgers and fries, sells them in a very clean, friendly restaurant for a very reasonable price and their food is super consistent.
How they are rated or over-rated, hard to say but I am a fan and am very glad their is one close by.
sfmitch at 10:43AM on 07/23/10
sweetness, my SE screename is primarily based on my longing for in-n-out (and decent mexican food..but that is another story). Definitely hope to try this out at some point soon and see how it compares to the real deal
missing_LA at 10:46AM on 07/23/10
Still think 5 guys is better.
mikehc at 10:53AM on 07/23/10
although In-N-Out is good.
mikehc at 10:54AM on 07/23/10
if you've got the cheese, onions and spread down, then making the perfect animal style fries shouldn't be too difficult. Although you do realize that the next obvious step for somebody is to take your shake shack burger recipe and pit it against the in-n-out double double animal style recipe for a truly fair side by side blind taste test
missing_LA at 10:55AM on 07/23/10
@Missing_LA
Or better yet, use the thin and crispy fry recipe and pair it with the cheese/onion/spread!
(I've never really liked the in-n-out fries - you can't make great fries out of once-fried fresh potatoes!)
Side-by-side comparison sounds fun!
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 10:58AM on 07/23/10
Great writeup!
That said, I really do fail to see the appeal of In-N-Out. The burgers are bland and the fries are over-fried little broken up pieces of cardboard. "But they use real potatoes!" All I know is that when I make fries from real potatoes at home they taste a whole hell of a lot better.
Now could someone please figure out how to make everything at Taco Bell at home? :p
optimiss at 11:00AM on 07/23/10
Love these recreation articles. Great stuff, Kenji. Are we to hear about the DIY toilet in a future post?
JustinH at 11:01AM on 07/23/10
I watched the Dumpling video. I laughed out loud after hearing the quiet Kenji-giggle in the background near the end. Absolutely HI-LARIOUS.
I'm originally from Portland, Oregon; but we moved to Ashland, Oregon when I was 12. Ashland is 1.25 hours away from the nearest In'n'Out in California. We have Sonic, which is OK, but it isn't good enough. I remember a few late night after-production (AKA My Hungry Theatre Troop after a successful showing) trips to In'n'Out back in High School. Luckily I had a 1970 VW Bus at the time, so fitting 8 or 9 people in the same vehicle wasn't a big deal. We've been petitioning to get an In'n'Out in Oregon for YEARS. Absolutely NOT overrated.
BitchinFixins at 11:03AM on 07/23/10
@Garvey
I'm not even a burger fanatic, so, the burgers I eat has to be damned good. And I mean damned GOOD. And for me, in SoCal, nothing (at least in fast food chains) beats In-N-Out for its taste, quality, value and service. Other than that, only Kenji's recipes for burgers and sliders satisfy me. So, it's mystery to me what measuring stick you are using when you say that In-n-Out is overrated.
yamatosoul at 11:04AM on 07/23/10
I'm dying here, cruising in seafood heaven in Alaska, and craving a really good burger. Your recent post is a painful reminder of the deliciousness of the Double Double Animal Style. In-N-Out is always my first stop off the plane when I travel to LA, followed by the next meal at Mijares in Pasadena for good Mexican food.
SeattleDee at 11:06AM on 07/23/10
I love the mayo jar variable in your equation!
I can't believe you made your own Double-Double Animal Style at home.
I can't believe you had those burgers overnighted to you.
OMG I can't believe the meat ratio is 60/40.
Thank goodness I don't live near an In n Out or I'd weigh 400 pounds!
Kenji, you're insane, but I love it!
soozm32 at 11:09AM on 07/23/10
redonculous.
Also, 60/40 blows my mind away.
Eric B. Lee at 11:12AM on 07/23/10
I'm pretty sure the spread has honey in it. The burger looked pretty damn close to the original. Great job!
STFTBurgers at 11:16AM on 07/23/10
"they have a policy of never opening up a location that's not within a day's drive of their meat processing plant in Baldwin Park, California."
Not anymore. A Garland, Texas location will open soon:
http://sidedish.dmagazine.com/2010/05/24/first-in-n-out-burger-in-texas-is-approved-for-garland/
And Garland is exactly a day's drive from a lot of the southeast and midwest. Here's hoping to see more soon.
gamingwithbaby at 11:18AM on 07/23/10
Did you wrap it in paper with weird hidden bible verses?
Anyway, I love the INO. I think the people who think it's over-rated don't get that to average Californian it's still fast food, a very beloved fast food.
thesteveroller at 11:19AM on 07/23/10
Wow. I wanna make me a burger now...
Chocolatesa at 11:24AM on 07/23/10
As always, I love the fusion passion and the science in your posts, Kenji!
Don't hurt me for saying that I pet the caramelized onions and the combo of condiments would be wicked good on a homemade veggie burger or a breaded portabella mushroom, though ;)
HeartofGlass at 11:30AM on 07/23/10
I too love these recreations. And your food styling photos are great. Being a Food LAb fan on Facebook, I'm privy to the process that goes into this final product. Notice that pickle peeking out on the bottom? That's completely intentional. Someone on FB lambasted Kenji about pickles, so he's making sure to show them.
Now, as far as In-N-Out goes, I thought the burger was ok when I had it. But "I'm fly at Fatburger when I'm way out West." Maybe it's my Beastie Boys bias, but I think they make a tastier burger. Kenji, maybe you can do a Fatburger next?
simon at 11:38AM on 07/23/10
If you compare In n Out to fast food chains like McDonald's or Burger King, as you should, it's really hard to say it's over-rated. I'm sure if you compare it to gourmet non chain burger joints, there are many better burgers out there. For a fast food chain, it's very good.
nataku at 11:51AM on 07/23/10
I tasted my first In-N-Out this year, thought it was just ok. One of your burgers plz.
charlesr19 at 12:05PM on 07/23/10
Nerdy algebra + burgers = Swooning!
GretaGrace at 12:05PM on 07/23/10
A recipe for a Double-Double, Animal Style? I. LOVE. YOU.
HeelsGirl at 12:14PM on 07/23/10
Side by side tasting next time you're in CA?! I'm there! This looks great, by the way.
jt3_11 at 12:19PM on 07/23/10
Kenji, yet again you prove how you are my hero. You make me want to be a better food nerd.
burgerblogger at 12:19PM on 07/23/10
Algeburgers!!!! This whole week of Food Lab posts has made me crave in-n-Out so much that I might have that for dinner tonight. (Extra toast + green chiles for me)
If you're in the SF Bay Area, I'm down for an side-by-side taste test as well.
manda at 12:24PM on 07/23/10
As an In-N-Out employee myself, I give you mad props for accuracy. A few minor notes: for true Animal Style, a dollop of extra spread goes atop the lettuce. Also, you were right to add the vinegar to the spread, as the secret recipe happens to include mustard, though I have no idea on amounts. Finally, next time you make one, or eat at In-N-Out for that matter, you should try my favorite variation on Animal Style - replacing the chopped grilled onions with whole grilled onions. Oh yummy yum yum.
lady_sadie at 12:47PM on 07/23/10
There are so many things in this post that make it absolutely AWESOME.
Sadly even though I live in California I haven't had an In-N-Out burger in over a year... even though they're 2 minutes away! They ARE delicious. Guess I'll be going sometime in the next few days!
& that algebra... it just blew my mind. You (and your wife) absolutely win.
Foodie Birdie at 12:51PM on 07/23/10
That pretty impressively looks dang close to the original. Kinda sad to have to read this after my wife told me she didn't want to get burgers tonight because she's burgered-out for a while (no such thing, I say, but hey...).
And Kenji -- I'll make that burger run with you if you're ever in L.A. (and the Pie & Burger run, if you're in Pasadena...!).
ArkyTrojan at 12:57PM on 07/23/10
This is probably the best cooking post ever. *bows down*
bensuperdetka at 1:03PM on 07/23/10
I am absolutely in awe of the magnitude of thought/work/effort that went into this post.
This is truly an elegant experiment.
polly28 at 1:10PM on 07/23/10
Do you think that you could make the famous "bacon jam" from Skillet in Seattle using the same french onions for soup method you called on here, just using some bacon as well? That's something I'd be very interested in recreating. Also I miss In-N-Out like nobody's business.
perrinbar at 1:16PM on 07/23/10
I am likely never to get to CA for an In N Out burger...but I love thousand island on a burger. I will be sure to make that delicious onion relish. Great article and I love the details.
healthytouch101 at 1:31PM on 07/23/10
Forgot to add, the hidden bible verses thing is enough to keep me out of their store. Unappetizing.
healthytouch101 at 1:33PM on 07/23/10
@ShoneyJoe
I went over budget for this one - had no idea that shipping would cost that much until it was too late! Worth every penny though :)
@JustinH
DIY toilet was not a pretty site. And when my wife found out about it, that's when the sh*t really hit the fan (literally).
@gamingwithbaby
That's great news!
@lady_sadie
Thanks for the tips! I wish I had been in touch with you before the experimenting! I can't believe I missed the sauce on top of the lettuce. I think it's because the lettuce was so wilted after having been frozen overnight that I just tossed it, but didn't bother to examine it's remains too carefully before doing so. My bad.
@perrinbar
I've never tried it. If you want to mail me a sample, I'd be happy to try and figure it out though (hint hint)!
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 1:33PM on 07/23/10
LOVE this post. I have two In-N-Out stores within 5 miles of me, but limit my consumption to about once a quarter. I've never actually had the animal style burger (I get the double single--that cheese is intense!) but the animal fries are great.
Mmmm, maybe I will have it for lunch!
ell.victor at 1:44PM on 07/23/10
I never knew that an Animal Style burger didn't have cheese in it! I assumed that it did based on the fries. Now I have to try one!
I guess I know what I'm having for dinner.
esgalerin at 2:09PM on 07/23/10
I have been dreaming of a post like this for a long time!!! I've been doing my own home experiments to replicate an In-n-Out burger (despite the fact that there's one 5 minutes from me) and I have had difficulty getting everything exactly right. The fat content of my patties was probably off and I'm going to try your spread recipe to see if it's better than what I've been doing at home. Thanks so much!
xRyanx at 2:14PM on 07/23/10
@esgalerin, it has cheese on it look at the picture above
missing_LA at 2:34PM on 07/23/10
@esgalerin: you can order grilled onions on a regular hamburger there, I do it all the time. Ask for mustard along with the spread and you'll get close, I suppose.
missvenuz at 2:48PM on 07/23/10
The USDA disagrees with your 60/40 finding: if you punch in 20% fat on their hamburger calculator you get 16g fat for 100g of pan-cooked beef, which equals 6g for a 37g patty. I guess they think more fat gets lost in the cooking?
USDA: http://bit.ly/bKJu1G
ScottH at 2:50PM on 07/23/10
Finally had my first In-N-Out a couple of years ago in San Francisco--double-double animal style. Fries were meh but that burger! Worth wading through the tourists at Fisherman's Wharf.
MandyEats at 3:07PM on 07/23/10
@gamingwithbaby: The "locations within a day's drive" (500 miles) policy is still in effect. In-N-Out is building a meat processing plant and distribution center near Dallas. That will be serving the Garland location along with future locations.
junesix at 3:55PM on 07/23/10
Pie and Burger makes me happy to work in Pasadena (although in truth I haven't been to P&B in a while.) And heck yes, I'd be more than happy to join you on an In-N-Out tasting! Perhaps we could put the animal-style Double Double against the burgers I saw you make on America's Test Kitchen the other day. (Full disclosure: This is a trick to get you to make some of those burgers for me.)
And as always, I must evangelize for my cause: For everyone who doesn't like In-N-Out because they don't like the fries, the secret is to order them well-done. I've said it before and I'll surely say it again.
Osomatic at 4:14PM on 07/23/10
Kenji, if you are in the Bay Area, I will volunteer my kitchen for the side by side tasting of In-N-Out vs. homemade Double Double Animal Style.
dbepstein at 4:55PM on 07/23/10
Buns! Don't give up on baking your own delicious, soft buns! There is a trick to soft breads that I picked up when I worked at a sub shop. After they've cooled to the point that you can hold them without burning yourself, seal them in a plastic bag until they're room temp. The crusts will be soft and as close to perfect as they get. If you let them cool completely on the counter, the crusts will be hard and dry. The bag is the secret.
Grakkal at 5:02PM on 07/23/10
When I ate my first In-N-Out burger 4 years ago, I was not overly impressed and did not understand the hype surrounding the chain. After moving here several years ago and enjoying them regularly, I am now a devout enthusiast. Although I still do not care much for their fries (even well done), the Double-Double has definitely become my favorite fast food burger and has deliciously replaced my beloved Whataburger from Texas.
And Pie 'n Burger is now on my official "to do" list. Thanks Kenji!
leebo at 5:12PM on 07/23/10
I would second Grakkai's point on buns. Imagine if I had written this piece on reverse engineering of the burger. If I had written "I know how to make patties, but I can just pick up a package of frozen patties at the supermarket that should do the trick", what would your response be? That is how I felt when I read your approach to the buns. I have a general rule that I don't make ingredients where I can't expect an approximate 30% increase in quality. That is why when I make ramen here in Japan, I just buy fresh noodles. But I almost always bake my hamburger buns.
monku aru ka? at 5:48PM on 07/23/10
@monku aru ka?
I like your screen name, and I have no argument :)
I think saying the same thing about patties is totally different, because aas I expressed in the article, I think for the job at hand (i.e. a good fast food burger), there is nothing better than a mass-market supermarket bun. Nothing I've made or have ever seen anyone make at home is better than an Arnold bun or a Martin's potato roll for this type of burger. Not only that, but I can't imagine anything ever being better. Like I said, different, but not better. Arnold is perfect for this task, so that's what I used.
In other burgers, I've had no problem making my own buns when I thought they'd be an improvement on what's available (see my Spotted Pig Knockoff, for instance).
I assure you, it's certainly not laziness that drove me to use a Arnold!
I am, however, sorry if they aren't available in Japan.
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 6:01PM on 07/23/10
5 guys is awful! Smash burger is awesome!
I loved this post! Great job.
w33z3rswtr at 7:15PM on 07/23/10
Since I will not be traveling to California (or anywhere with an In and Out) soon, this will give me the chance to try something close! I have never had anything like this, so I am excited to give it a try. Fantastic post as always :)
milkyway4679 at 11:17PM on 07/23/10
What brand of dill pickle slices did you use?
I never seem to find the same taste of dill slices (or bread 'n' butter pickles for that matter) here in the Northeast that I get in California or Texas.
patrickamory at 12:55AM on 07/24/10
what? no puns?
the math might be spot on but i dont think youre the real kenji :P
myk v. at 2:01AM on 07/24/10
Their spread has a strong spice undernote, perhaps in the sweet pickle brine. Tastes like clove to me. Like in some nasty over spiced gherkins.
It's the one reason I'm usually unhappy by the time I finish my double double protein style. That lingering clove flavor is a huge turn off.
peekpoke at 5:36AM on 07/24/10
I miss the west coast for In 'N Out and In 'N Out alone.
Now, 5 Guys has good burgers, but I would not compare them with In 'N Out. Neither is superior to the other, b/c they are different.
[Just had 5 Guys yesterday for lunch]
PeteRepeat42 at 7:17AM on 07/24/10
Kenji: amazing post on the burger. Your wife's algeburger skills are great, as your diagram is amusing. Thanks so much. Now only if there was a decent burger within a day's driving distance of SW Germany... But thanks to this post, I can make my own. THANK YOU!
Taste Traveller at 9:24AM on 07/24/10
Kenji, you are a god. I thought you might like some of my work on burgers, especially my taxonomy of burger styles. You will find your name mentioned more than once in my suite of articles:
http://amazingribs.com/recipes/hamburgers/index.html
Craig at 10:27AM on 07/24/10
Kenji: A thought about the patty size. On this page on their website they give the nutrition info. http://www.in-n-out.com/nutritional_info.asp
Note that the INO Hamburger w/Onion is shown as 243 g. That's 8.6 ounces total. A cheeseburger with onion is 268 g. So the cheese is 25 g unless something else is added. A double double (two patties and two slices of cheese) with onion is 330 g. If the cheese is 25 g, the double double, with two cheeses has 50 g cheese. Remove the cheese and a sandwich with two patties would be 280 g. That means the extra patty is 280 - 243 = 37 g or 1.4 ounces. Can that be?
Craig at 11:10AM on 07/24/10
Perrinbar, bacon jam is not made as caramelized onions are. If you check out homesicktexan.blogspot.com or notquitenigella.com, they both have recipes.
Saria at 12:39PM on 07/24/10
Kenji... this post is nothing short of a revelation. thank you. thank you. this is an example of what a really great aht posting should be. i daresay it should get it's fair share of appreciation on the main serious eats site as well.
well done. (you, not the burger, please...)
HerbyN at 2:16PM on 07/24/10
One problem with reverse engineering fast food store based on their Nutrition Guides. A study shoed that they fudge the numbers by up to 18%.
See http://bit.ly/avJ9nL
I will be making your recipe anyway, just because it looks great!
thinktwice at 3:45PM on 07/24/10
I just don't understand the love for In-N-Out. I've eaten their burgers many times over the years but stopped maybe a decade ago when I started gravitating toward places cooking nice thick juicy patties of higher-grade beef--"pub" burgers as some call them these days. If In-N-Out ever expands into the East, the mystery and cachet will disappear quickly, and all you Easterners will go back to your pub burgers or Five Guys or whatever. In-N-Out is appealing for the same reason Coors was appealing back in the '60s when people would return from vacations out West with a coveted six-pack. People want things that they perceive as rare, mysterious, not easily obtained, etc. In California, it's just another burger chain.
BierGiek at 7:48PM on 07/24/10
As a food writer myself and a Californian living in PDX desperately missing my In N' Out, this post made me smile. Thank you for being so creative! (and perhaps inspiring me to concoct my own experiment)
earlygirl707 at 8:30PM on 07/24/10
@Craig
Yep, that's right. It's 57 grams (2 oz) uncooked, 37 grams (1.4 oz) after cooking!
@thinktwice
Well, for me the only thing that matter in the end is that it's damn close, and very delicious!
@BierGiek
I know plenty of Californians who don't think In-N-Out is "just another burger chain."
I honestly prefer thin burgers to big pub-style burgers. It's apples and oranges. If you prefer the thick ones, go for it! It doesn't mean that someone else can't prefer a fast-food style burger, and out of fast food burgers, INO is the best I've had.
@myk v.
Sorry for the lack of puns. I usually try to spread them through each post.
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 8:51PM on 07/24/10
Thick steakhouse burgers or thin diner burgers. It's like red wine or white wine. There's a time for both.
Craig at 10:25PM on 07/24/10
@Garvey... noticed you quickly went in and out.
@BierGiek... like the man said, I know plenty of Californians who constantly crave In-N-Out. Personally, I find most pub burgers ridiculously huge. Why I don't like them.
@J Kenji... at first I rolled my eyes at the thought of a do-it-yourself In-N-Out... but when I focused and read the article... now I see the light.
Thanks! Will try.
Rob H at 9:46AM on 07/25/10
Please, by all means, enjoy your fast-food burgers, whether they're In-N-Out, Five Guys, Carl's Jr. or McDonalds. They're all the same gooey, squashed down, overcooked mess to me, but I don't intend to sway anyone else's opinion. As I said, I used to eat them fairly often, especially In-N-Out and Carl's, Jr.
@RobH: You know, if you prefer a thicker burger but find them "ridiculously huge," you don't have to eat the whole thing. And I have to wonder if the calorie difference (or weight difference, for that matter) between a Double Double slathered with sauce and an 8 oz. pub-style cheeseburger with nothing else on it--the way I prefer it--is that significant.
@Craig: I suppose so. I used to eat both, but now that I'm at an age where excess calories more readily accumulate around my middle, I have to budget my intake, so when I'm in a burger mood I invariably devote the calories to the pub style burger rather than fast-food style burger. Burgers are a rare (no pun intended) treat for me these days.
BierGiek at 10:24AM on 07/25/10
@BierGiek
Maybe I should have been clearer... by ridiculously huge I mean those burgers that are just plain hard to eat as a hamburger because of their size. I'm sure you know of what I speak. When you're forced to use utensils to eat a burger, something's gone awry. And if I can't eat it as a hamburger is traditionally meant to be eaten, I just don't enjoy it. Actually, I don't even eat many hamburgers anymore... lol. Like you, I try to budget my intake. But when I'm in an In-N-Out town, I go on a minor burger bender.
Rob H at 12:51PM on 07/25/10
Clarification on my "overrated: post. I grew up in Chicagoland, where a fine Schoops burger blows away In-n-Out, any day of the week. I lived in SoCal for four years and had plenty of In-n-Out, and it is OK. Nothing to zoom straight to, when landing at LAX. If I were in California on a trip, I wouldn't waste a meal at In-n-Out. Gimme a mom-n-pops Mexican joint every time.
Of course, everyone wants to compare In-n-Out to the clown and king joints. OK, fair enough: In-n-Out is what fast food should be. I will grant you that. But is it not better than Schoops, Miner Dunn, or other hamburger joints that are common around the Chicagoland area. These aren't pub burgers or fancy in any way. Fresh made to order, dine in or carry out. Head and shoulders better than In-n-Out.
Bottom line: meh.
Garvey at 1:54PM on 07/25/10
Looks very yummy..i wish we have fast-food like that here. :(
steelmailbox at 6:16PM on 07/25/10
This reminds me very much of the time in 1992 I went to visit my friend Margaret in Albuquerque. She was jonesing for some Cinnabon (the wilds of ABQ did not yet have one). I stopped at the mall on my way to PDX and picked up a 9 pack of minis. I guarded them ferociously. I had them on the plane, and the ABQ airport while I waited for the buses to run, and then on the hour-plus bus ride to where Margaret was going to pick me up. When I met Margaret at a Wendy's,I realized I had LEFT THOSE SUCKERS ON THE BUS! Doh!
HakunaFritatta at 10:45AM on 07/26/10
But how do they compare to A&W or Dairy Queen?
And re: Sonic -- don't think I ever had any burgers there, but I used to be a big fan of the "Festival of Carbs" meal, AKA the Chicken Strip Basket. Breaded chicken strips, fries, toast and gravy.
And the best burger I ever had was at Yaw's (now defunct) in Portland.
HakunaFritatta at 11:05AM on 07/26/10
I am equally at home with the Spotted Pig burger as I am with an In-N-Out animal style (which got me through graduate school) or a White Manna; there is room for all in my burger world. Actually, there's this place out here in Jersey that's my go to which somewhat grabs all three varieties...
And I'm glad to say that I have given Five Guys three chances to impress me and all I come away with is a lump in my stomach, salt crusted lips, and mystery grease on my shoes plus quite a bit of my money missing from my wallet. Save for the limp, unappealing fries, In-N-Out is the king.
BeerWeezil at 11:12AM on 07/26/10
I love you guy's but, you need to get out more or, read some of the various Dallas,Texas food blogs,
INO is indeed expanding outside of the West coast! They're building a processing plant in north Texas and have (confirmed) plans to open at least 5 (built from the ground up) stores. The first, to open at the Firewheel Shopping Center in Garland, Texas about 30 miles north of downtown Dallas.
In the local blogs the INO fans outweigh the haters by about 8 to 2. Personally, my mouth is watering and waiting patiently for my first double-double animal style in years.
Twinwillow at 11:50AM on 07/26/10
I just moved from New York to San Francisco merely for In-n-Out Burger. Okay, it was for a job, but it was also to discover what SF has to offer my stomach!
Hissing at 12:28PM on 07/26/10
There are small amounts of protein in some of the other components of the burger. If you factor in the additional protein from these other components, it might bring down the fat/protein ratio, right?
MickeyZ at 12:43PM on 07/26/10
A link to the USDA Nutrition Database....
http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search/
MickeyZ at 12:44PM on 07/26/10
@mickeyZ
Content of the other parts of the burger should have nothing to do with these numbers, since I got the difference between a double double, and a cheeseburger with one extra slice of cheese. That should compensate for everything except a single patty (37 grams), which it does.
The part where the ratio may be off is that I'm assuming both fat and liquid are expelled from the patty in equal amounts as it cooks. What id doesn't take into account, and wha tI should have mentioned is that it's 60/40 protein/fat, but that's not the same as 60/40 beef, since it doesn't take into account other things in the mix (most prominently water). In retrospect, I should have taken this into account and clarified that better.
In either case, it's a pretty high fat content, and that's what matters.
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 12:49PM on 07/26/10
About seven months after we moved to Pasadena I turned 60. To celebrate my birthday, I did two things: first, I went down to the Otis art school and signed up for an evening drawing class. Second, on my way home I stopped for the first time at an In-N-Out and got a Double-Double and fries. Hard to say at this point which experience was the more liberating, but that burger was the first drive-up one I can remember that actually tasted like a burger is supposed to. Good fresh meat flat-grilled = perfection. Yes, the one at Pie'n'Burger is usually (not always!) better, but it's also twice the price.
Something I'll never forget is that when Julia Child was interviewed on her 90th birthday, she revealed that she kept in her purse a list of every In-N-Out on the road between San Diego and Santa Barbara. SHE knew...
Nashwill at 1:56PM on 07/26/10
I called 411 once to look for an In N Out while driving around. It turns out they have a hotline! It's now programmed into my phone for all such emergencies.
On the whole overrated debate: In N Out is way better than McDonald's or Burger King. Now Carl's Jr may have an edge, but that's only because they pile all sorts of deliciousness onto their burgers. Come to think of it, Carl's Jr is probably in an entirely different category of fast food burger. But back to the original point - INO provides way better quality and flavor than any other burger at that price point.
ell.victor at 2:08PM on 07/26/10
@hakunafrittata, you were in ABQ, and you met your friend AT A WENDY'S??? sure, i love me some wendy's, but when lotaburger's RIGHT THERE, there's no contest!
snowpants7 at 2:15PM on 07/26/10
also, @nashwill, we have a laminated dossier in our car that lists every blake's lotaburger on the drive from los angeles to my in-law's in albuquerque...hours, phone numbers, exit numbers... :)
snowpants7 at 2:19PM on 07/26/10
Kenji for President!!
Erin Jackson at 3:03PM on 07/26/10
A Fat Burger "on the char" with cheese, bacon and egg beats any In N Out burger and is made from the same never-frozen ground beef, real potato fresh cut fries, real ice cream shakes and skinny chili fries to top it off! I'm waiting for that review next...the closest to a real backyard BBQ burger and open 24 hours!
mmmmburger at 3:32PM on 07/26/10
I've personally never been a big fan of In-N-Out. But then again, I tend to judge hyped up restaurants more harshly. That being said, the recipe that Kenji came up to make on my own looks delish.
@BitchinFixins: I just had to give a shout out to a fellow Ashlander! I grew up there! It is such a fabulous place. I'm jealous if you're still out there.
Alison J Herzog at 3:36PM on 07/26/10
@garvey, you are soo right about that.I do not understand the following in-n-out has. Ill admit that in the realm of fast food in-n-out is better than mcdonalds or burger king but in the over all scheme of things its just a regular old run of the mill burger. Seriously there are soo many better options out there for burgers if your in CA. Iv lived in CA for almost my entire life and i only went to in-n-out when i was a kid.
Ron_johnings at 4:17PM on 07/26/10
It's just a shame about the awful, awful fries. The problem is they don't remove the starch so once cooked they end up with the texture of drywall. It's basically a mortal sin in the cooking world not to remove the starch. It's like not cleaning clams before adding them to a soup.
markgale at 5:18PM on 07/26/10
@ell.victor Hilarious! I, too, have the number programmed into my phone! :)
Kenji--I am not making this up. I actually got tears in my eyes. I am so unbelievably happy. Sniff.
southiechick at 8:25PM on 07/26/10
I'm a 35+ year veteran of chowing down at In-N-Out. The home base of Baldwin Park is a couple of miles away from where I grew up, and I've stayed in CA all of my life.
I do agree with some posters that the fries are weak at best, but boy do I dig those chocolate shakes. They are awesome with the AS Double Double.
However, I'll be **really** impressed with a deconstruction of a Tommy's World Famous cheeseburger which is a nasty, messy and great tasting burger.
fzmann at 10:11PM on 07/26/10
Homemade buns: BEST EVER, EVER, EVER is Peter Reinhart's "Basic White Bread Version 3" from Bread Baker's Apprentice. Soft and browned; they'll add just the right touch to your Double-Double. Thanks to and for all!
Calvinator at 12:07AM on 07/27/10
$120 in shipping fees to get frozen burgers?! You are nuts! Haven't you heard of JetBlue? You could have flown from JFK to LGB (Long Beach) and hit an In-N-Out directly.
BTW, you don't have to go to CA for In-N-Out. You could go to Vegas or Salt Lake.
Finally, why did it not surprise me that the first person to comment would be some loser who felt the need to disparage In-N-Out burgers? It's fine if you don't like them, but don't pretend that you are somehow the aficionado. If they weren't that good, In-N-Out wouldn't have lasted as long and wouldn't have the lines they do.
timhood at 12:51AM on 07/27/10
Back in the day - early 80s? - In-N-Out gave out bumper stickers that read, simply, In-N-Out Burgers. It was all the rage to do a slight mod on said sticker by snipping out the 'B' of Burgers, as well as the final 'r' and 's' leaving, well you can figure it out for yourselves.
filmphotoweb at 2:18AM on 07/27/10
Store #3 was in the town I grew up in; the founders went to my high school. You could say In-N-Out is in my blood, in more than one way. Their fries have changed as the chain has expanded. They're crispier now: most people think they're better, but I'm a bit nostalgic for the floppy soggy greasy shoestrings they used to serve. It's not the best burger by a long shot, but it always makes me happy.
I had a lot of friends who worked at In-N-Out in the 80s and 90s, and it was a tough job to get. It paid really well (for a high school job) and the attitude was that every employee was a potential manager or executive. Expectations were high, but employees were treated well. My friends liked working there, grease and all.
@BierGiek In-N-Out is miles above McDo, Burger King, or other mega chain burgers.
scelerat at 1:48PM on 07/27/10
This is fascinating! In-n-Out will always hold a special place in our west coast hearts no matter what anyone says. Never knew it was "mustard-grilled" - better pay attention next time I have one (which might be tonight - this post made me drool!!). Thanks for the math and chemistry lesson... now I know what a hamburger's all about!
Valerie from Globetrotter Diaries at 2:11PM on 07/27/10
OK it's not a Double Bacon Cheese Burger with he Works from 'HODADS' in Ocean Beach, San Diego, California, - But that said it does offer a consistant level of quality and flavor of a Burger at anyone of it's franchises in Southern Califirnia, Arizona and Nevada. It is by far the best of the fast food burger chains out there.
Now after this I'm going to stop at In-And-Out for an Animal DoubleDouble before I go to Costco for some quanity basic needs which is convieniently located directly across the I-5 in Carlsbad, Ca.
butterfingers at 3:47PM on 07/27/10
Although I love a thick burger, and sell a great half pounder at my restaurant, I do love an in and out double double. I am, however, amazed to see that after going through all of these calculations, you may have gotten it wrong by not being observant. Although it's called a "double double", it is actually a double quadruple - there are four, not two, slices of cheese on it. These are thinner, and slightly smaller than a typical retail slice of Amercian. (like MacDonalds, Carl's or any of the ot other fast food places.) So, I'm thinking that the amount of cheese may change your other calculations. I grind 2 or 3 cases of whole chuck a week for burgers at my restaurant, and estimate that I get about 75-80% lean out of our blend. I'd be surprised if in and out brought in extra fat, rather than just grinding whole chuck. Also, for those of you condeming well done burgers - ask nice, and you can get it as raw as you want at most In and Outs. There's no rare on the keyboard, but the well-trained staff will usually step over to the grill and tell them that you've asked for it as rare as possible. Yum.
Slychef at 6:42PM on 07/27/10
Hey, doesn't anyone in this place have an opinion on fast food burgers? C'mon, folks, no reason to be shy!
Osomatic at 4:31PM on 07/28/10
I went to L.A. last year: 50% to visit a friend 50%to try an in-N-out burger.
I will be trying to re-create the religious experience at home--thank you!
nnatasha at 10:49AM on 07/29/10
I'm mid attempt as I set away from my hot kitchen. Being in NYC I don't get to satiate my craving too often. From the picture of the patties cooking they look like smash method patties but that was not described so I'm preforming them. I'm pretty sure In N' Out doesn't smash their burgers.
Also, the s+p? That's for the patties right?
Cant wait, I'll report back the outcome.
nycParkie at 6:42PM on 07/30/10
Yummyyyyyyyyyyy
Mike bret at 12:36PM on 07/31/10
If you are ever needing an In-N-Out burger companion in Las Vegas, please let me know! Thanks for the great piece.
cellosubmarine at 6:51PM on 08/01/10
As a native Californian (who actually knew the Snyder family that created In-N-Out) who now lives in Texas, I can say I don't blame you for trying to recreate that fantastic burger! The rumor mill has it that we will soon get out own In-N-Out Burger here in the DFW area...I can't wait!!!!
warriners at 7:18PM on 08/01/10
To slychef : There are actually only two slices of cheese on a double-double. It may appear that there are four slices because each slice is folded at 1/5 as it is being placed on the patty. I work for In-N-Out and have for just over 8 years. I have been cooking the actual burgers for about 4, sometimes up to a couple thousand a day. And technically we are not supposed to "pull" a burger before 2 1/2 minutes (4:15 being the normal time for a medium well burger) but there are a few customers that love it rare. And I don't blame them, Ive been eating a double meat (I'm lactose intolerant) every single day for the past 8 years, cooked for a minute and a half and I never get sick of it. I love In-N-Out, always have always will.
spinkmb at 11:44PM on 08/01/10
Oh yeah...and In-N-Out IS coming to Texas.
spinkmb at 11:46PM on 08/01/10
Any chance that you help reverse engineer Roy Roger's BBQ Sauce?
Craig Hochscheid at 3:32AM on 08/02/10
Looks great! But, for the best burgers, you can't beat Chris Madrid's in San Antonio!
Raoul Nachi at 1:53PM on 08/02/10
Try the Shaq Burger from The Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland.
dlayphoto at 2:00PM on 08/02/10
I am new to this site but am certain I shall return. Having done the engineering routine myself I must say I am quite impressed with your meathodical search for knowledge here. Nicely done. And quite humorous as well. wvwireman
wvwireman at 1:52PM on 08/03/10
Burgers should never be fried on a griddle--a culinary abomination. In-n-out is mediocre; it does good business because of the high school crowd of every age.
Adult palates prefer Carls Jr.--very creative with a nice variety of offerings; Wendy's isn't bad either. Carl Jr's "$6 burger" is a very good take on the "pub burger" and their "Angus Beef" is much better than the factory beef served at most chains.
(Your mileage may vary in California depending on the weight of the driver's brain.)
In the words of the immortal Yiddish song:
"Essen gehen Wir; fressen gehen Dir..."
It's not for nothing it's called "animal style".
Fatburger is another greasy abomination.
Sternlight at 3:56PM on 08/03/10
guys, guys, guys.... Just for the record, the mustard has always been fried on the bun and not on the hamburger itself... and the pictures from your "spy" do not look like in and out patties....
it is pretty easy to describe what the difference between regular and animal style.... Animal style has grilled onions instead of fresh, pickles, grilled mustard on the bun and "double" sauce. that is it. I delete the tomatos, but that is me...
Suggestions for further exploring into the animal style kingdom, if you haven't had a chance yet, you should try a "grilled-cheese" animal style and also their new animal style french fries..... you can even get the extra sauce in take away packets.
Also, if you are tired of ordering two double doubles, remember you can order a 3x3, 4x4, 5x5 or even more if you can get your mouth around them. enjoy.
puchvn at 7:33PM on 08/03/10
OK, I had a Double-Double Animal style [ I added a slice of fresh onion ] BUT I DID-NOT care at all for the Animal Style the mustard set it off, and I love mustard, the pickles counter act with the Originals flavor, nor do I care for grilled onions on my burgers either. So I'll be sticking with the ORIGINAL DOUBLE-DOUBLE with X-tra Onions, you just can't improve on perfection, for a fast-food Burger My condolences to those who don't live near enough to have a Fresh In-N-Out when you need a fast burger fix. 20+ yrs ago when I was alot younger, after Surfing all-day at Trestles with only water and juice, I could eat 2- Double-Doubles and a Single cheese burger all w/ X-tra Onions. 2- orders of fries, a Shake and an X-tra large Lemon-ade w/ very little ice. If your near and have the time for a wait in line for up to 45 minutes go to "HODADS" in Ocean Beach, San Diego, California for a Double Bacon Cheese Burger with the works and X-tra onions for the BEST EVER Burger, if you have one you'll be a convert for LIFE!
butterfingers at 2:44PM on 08/04/10
I've made these twice now. Great burgers!
The first time, I followed the recipe exactly. The second time, I made a couple of minor adjustments I thought I'd share. When I caramelized the onions, instead of adding a tablespoon of water each time to slow the cooking, I added a tablespoon of beef broth. They turned out even tastier.
Second, I added about 1/8 teaspoon of cayenne to the spread mixture. It wasn't really spicy, but it rounded out the sweetness nicely.
And finally, when I cooked the patties (using the mustard, which was great), I put a smaller skillet down on top of the patties to keep them flatter while they cooked. Made the burgers a little easier to stack.
Anyway, just thought I'd share. Great recipe!
wjglenn at 11:42PM on 08/05/10
I have tons of college friends who relocated to LA and they swear by In-N-Out. I've yet to give it a try!
They say the burgers are similar to Cook-Out, a small chain only in NC/SC. Big difference is Cook-Out has about a billion varieties of delicious milkshakes and you can get a corndog as a side item.
KateWithRedHair at 5:55PM on 08/08/10
I don't know how I survived before getting my Magnum peppermill and Oxo scale with the pull-out display. A great tool is such a joy.
carolmelancon at 4:49PM on 08/14/10
Such a great article. I tested it out for myself and put the results up on my site http://fortuneandfear.com - thanks Kenji!
skiniks at 9:22PM on 08/18/10
I had some leftover onions from my first attempt, so last week I went at it again. This time I combined all the Animal style toppings with the Shake Shack cooking method described elsewhere.
It turned out awesome. The best home burger I've made yet. The patties were bigger than in and out, but at home I kinda like it that way. Plus it's way easier to get a med-rare patty as I prefer.
This recipe is so great. While not exactly the same, it does have 'the taste' I crave. The onions did take a long time to get as soft as I wanted. Good thing I made a big batch.
nycParkie at 9:33AM on 08/25/10