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Revenge of the Burger at The Running Iron in Carmel Valley, CA

[Photographs: Damon Gambuto]
The Running Iron
24 E. Carmel Valley Rd., Carmel Valley, CA 93924 (map); 831-659-4633; carmelvalleycalifornia.com
Cooking Method: Grilled
Short Order: A once-upon-a-time honky tonk still has plenty of character and, more importantly, a very good burger.
Want Fries with That? Pass on the fries and go with the solid onion rings
Prices: Lonesome Burger (w/fries), $7.95; + $0.30 for cheese and $0.75 for grilled onions
Notes: Just 15 or so minutes inland from some of the priciest real estate on the planet, this is the place to go to avoid the sticker shock of the restaurants that are along the coast in Carmel
Not too long ago, I had the opportunity to take a trip up to Northern California for a long weekend of catching up with friends, golf, and, of course, burgers. There were a number of satisfying roadside stands, a few mid-range spots, and even a couple of fancy-pants restaurants along the way. I'll be posting about most of them in the coming weeks, but I wanted to start off with a burger that saved an evening.
Here are the things to know about taking a road trip along the Central and then Northern California coastlines: go from North to South on Highway 1 (preferably as the passenger so you get the best view) and avoid any restaurant that looks halfway fancy, lest you are ready to go all the way with your disposable income. I'm not going to murder the beauty of this area's coastline with an aspirational sentence, but you should know that it lives up to the hype, and it comes with a price tag. The real estate is some of the most expensive in the world, and even what seem like mid-scale restaurants can mean checks that give you fits of sticker shock.
On the first night of the trip we were looking around Carmel for a quick meal and all the local intel was sending us to one overpriced restaurant or another. That was until someone mentioned a place called The Running Iron that sits about fifteen or so minutes inland. It was described as a former honky tonk that serves a decent burger. That was only half accurate; the burger was great.

Named after the tool that is used to brand cattle in a freehand method, The Running Iron is not the original name of this restaurant that has been open in one form or another for over 60 years. The owners decided upon this name in 1980 to signify their intention to change the restaurant from a raucous bar to a family-friendly restaurant. The family appeal is in evidence with an interior that looks like an Epcot version of a roadside watering hole. There is all manner of footwear hanging from the ceiling and the gentle amber glow makes everything a little fuzzy. (Consider that my excuse for my less-than-perfect photo work this go-round.)

The Lonesome burger is a straightforward, eight-ounce chuck affair that comes with a sesame seed bun and some fries. You get the standard lettuce, tomato, pickle, and cole slaw on the side as well. I added a little American cheese and some grilled onions. All this for nine bucks. I think that would have bought me half a martini at the other place we were considering. This meant a few additional beers and some onion rings got an invitation to my table.

The patty was formed slim to meet the edges of the large bun and had a nice seasoning. The crust was healthy, and the whiff of char just right. The grind was surprisingly coarse, and was matched by a spongy bun that had, much to my delight, seen some heat and butter. Along with the nicely melted American and sweetness of the caramelized onions, I found the overall effect something close to exactly what my body and mind wanted. This wasn't a burger of deliberation or even deeply-felt, artisanal commitment. Rather, it was simple, quality food that satisfied without any wild flourish.

There is a sign hanging on the wall of The Running Iron's patio that reads "Living Well Is The Best Revenge." It's the kind of practiced homily that can make you roll your eyes, especially when it's carved into wood above a door, but somehow, on this occasion, it just made me smile. There are some nights when a basic burger, maybe a couple of beers, and some of your loved ones around to share it all with makes you feel like you're getting back at an overcomplicated and overpriced world. The Running Iron and its burger gave me a little revenge.
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