Does The Foundry on Melrose Make Los Angeles' Best Burger?

Posted by Damon Gambuto, April 7, 2010 at 1:15 PM

[Photographs: Damon Gambuto]

Who makes the best burger in Los Angeles? That question is the one people ask me and my burger confreres the most, and is perhaps the most difficult to answer. I came up with a list of favorites last fall, but now, just six months on, looking at it leaves me shaking my head. Is the order just right? Would I replace one for a new burger that I've tried since? It seems like a snapshot in time rather than an enduring document, but I imagine that's part of what makes the question interesting. The conversation about the best burger is an ongoing one.

Not too long ago The Foundry chef/owner Eric Greenspan decided that he wanted in on the dialogue and in a major way. Greenspan challenged Sang Yoon and his heralded Father's Office burger to a "Burger Bout" by placing a sign on the restaurant's door in the middle of the night. The stunt got the attention of the food "in crowd" here in Los Angeles and Greenspan's burger profile was raised. More recently, his burger bona fides were validated when LAist named The Foundry home to the best gourmet burger in town. All this burger brouhaha meant I was compelled to give The Foundry burger a closer look.

Greenspan opened his restaurant a few years back after making a reputation working under some of the most elite chefs in the country. His haute cuisine background is stamped all over his menu, but it runs counter to what you'd expect when meeting him. Despite his small stature there's not much about Greenspan that's diminutive. He cuts a Hitchcock-esque profile and has voluble brashness that on others would feel like self-conscious bad-boy-chef attitude. On Greenspan it just feels like the guy he's always been. Combine his big personality with years of dedicated training and you get a casual restaurant with fine dining refinement.

His burger, called The Patio Season Burger, has a simple description on the menu that belies the complexity of its construction. Listed as "Cheddar / Hawaiian Bread / Winter Condiments," the truth of this sandwich is much bigger than that. The beef is an 80/20 blend that I'd guess has some stronger beef cuts (perhaps clod?), but when I inquire I am told quite simply, "Beef." What I do know is that Greenspan adds what he calls "lard" for extra juice, but I'd guess it's duck fat (more on that in a bit).

The cheddar is a thin-sliced sharp, but it's in his condiments where things get a bit complex. Served on the burger is a tomato prepared confit along with a measured amount of arugula and supremely sour cornichon. On the side come three onion rings, a tamarind, onion tapenade, homemade mayonnaise, and pineapple and bacon relish. The bun is actually four small King's Hawaiian rolls left attached in the shape of a square.

The rich and full-flavored patty comes in a fine grind that would normally be a mark against a burger, but when matched by a superior crust it's a balancing texture. In fact, this patty's crust is as prodigious as any I've come across. It's deep and brown and so full of fat and flavor that I'd bet there's more going on than just proper seasoning and high heat. I suspect Greenspan makes good use of some fat—duck fat and butter perhap—to get his burgers this crusty and delicious.

The confit tomato and cornichon are overpowering on their own, but meld nicely with the other elements of the burger. The mayonnaise is so light and smooth that it makes me forget my soft spot for Hellman's. The onions and relish aren't unwelcome, but I have a hard time discerning just what they added. The onion rings, however, are so good—among the best I've ever had—that I have a hard time putting them on my burger as instructed. The addition of the King's Hawaiian bun seems out of place with the other high-end elements. It's a soft and spongy roll to be sure, but it feels decidedly off-the-rack against what is otherwise a beautifully bespoke burger creation.

The whole of the experience at The Foundry is noticeably put together. The service is attentive, but not overly formal. On one visit a mustachioed manager inquired about whether I was enjoying my food because so much was left uneaten (I was just full). On another, an impossibly beautiful server, from whom I'd expected the standard Los Angeles aloof treatment, was as solicitous and friendly as I could ask for. The music is live—while I usually avoid it with my meals, here it's mellow enough to seem like a convivial touch.

It's much the same with the burger: It's a collection of elements that I'd expect to be disappointed by, but it comes together nicely. Is it the best burger in Los Angeles? No, but it's damn good.

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Tags: AHT reviews, Los Angeles, recommended, reviews, Southern California, The Foundry