PrintRuminations on In-N-Out Burger
Note: Although people may call In-N-Out Burger overrated, it gets plenty of love: from regular consumers, famous chefs, famous actors, a book about its history, and imitators—if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. In case you're not already familiar with this Southern California-based burger chain, our New York City-based burger correspondent Nick Solares is here to share his thoughts on what makes it so good.
I travel to Los Angeles three or four times a year from New York City and spend about a week there on each visit. Back in my early days of reviewing for AHT, that meant a lot of hamburger consumption. But since we are fortunate to have the estimable Damon Gambuto on board as our Los Angeles correspondent, I now feel a sense of liberation as I don't feel the need to seek out burgers to review the way I do when I travel elsewhere. Rather, I can return to the burgers that I have fallen in love with, such as the classic from Pie 'N Burger in Pasadena or the uniquely cooked one from Cassell's downtown, while still allowing me to explore the other aspects of Los Angeles's rich food culture, not to mention try Damon's recommendations.
It also allows me to visit In-N-Out Burger without completely overloading on burgers, something I do on my way to and from the airport, with a visit or two in between for good measure. I generally fly into Burbank and stop at either the Sunset Boulevard location or the one on San Fernando Boulevard, but I have eaten at In-N-Outs all over—in Orange County, out in Anaheim, over by LAX. If I find myself by a location that I have not dined in, I make it a point to stop in. The experience, at least in terms of food, is virtually identical at each location I have visited.
Fresh and Made-to-Order
The consistency of product across the chain is remarkable not because it is so unique—pretty much all fast food joints have managed to rationalize the means of production to the point of delivering consistently similar burgers—but because only fresh ingredients are used and the food is created in each location, not in some factory ahead of time. While a typical fast food drone need only dunk a bag of frozen fries in to a fryer with a predetermined cooking cycle, an In-N-Out employee takes actual potatoes, puts them in to a press to make the fries fresh before cooking them. They can even honor special requests such as "light" or "well done"; try that at your average fast food joint.
While the printed menu is admittedly sparse, restricted to only a handful of items, the combinations possible by ordering off the not-so-secret but unwritten "secret menu" adds several options. (Honestly, if the menu were so secret, In-N-Out wouldn't have listed it on the company's website and many of the items on it wouldn't be trademarked.)
Overrated?
Of course, not everyone is as enthralled by In-N-Out as I am. Despite the chain having a passionate and loyal following—I am most assuredly not the only traveler who makes In-N-Out their first stop when landing in Los Angeles—there is an inevitable backlash against the place. The dissension usually revolves around the notion that In-N-Out is "overrated" and that it is "just fast food." As for the notion "overrated," I don't see how this is possible. A Double-Double, which handily trounces any other fast food burger I have tried, costs under $3, and it even compares favorably to many far pricier burgers. Of course the proper context in which to assess In-N-Out is in relation to other fast food joints, not a custom blended beef burger on a fancy bun that costs several times the cost of a whole meal at In-N-Out.
"Just fast food?" Putting aside the concept that a hamburger is supposed to be fast food, In-N-Out at the very least represents the platonic ideal of what a fast food hamburger should be. Our world would be a very different, and in my view better, place if all fast food chains operated using the same standards (both in sourcing and preparation of ingredients as well as labor practices) that In-N-Out adheres to.
There's More to it Than Taste
Having said that, it's not that I think In-N-Out is the best hamburger out there, although I certainly think it is a very good one. It is just that I don't eat there purely for the taste; I eat there because eating at In-N-Out make me feel assimilated into Southern Californian life. To me, eating at In-N-Out is more than just a meal—it's a cultural ritual, a right of passage even—as if consuming an In-N-Out feast (Corpus California, if you will) brings me closer to the Golden State's incarnation of the American Dream the way that a Catholic might find that the Eucharist brings them closer to Christ.
I eat there because I am nostalgic for the zeitgeist of post-war America, the boom years when the interstate highway system created a mobile society (both literally in the locomotive sense and figuratively in the socio-economic sense) and the hamburger became the closest thing we have to a national dish. It was during this post-war boom, when the country was flush with cheap steel and cheap beef, that In-N-Out got its start. Subscribing to the zeitgeist of the era, the chain served only fresh ingredients and adopted its motto—"Quality you can taste"—that has become a mantra whose exhortation is actualized daily.
Related
Los Angeles Area Burger Roundup
In-N-Out: Hooked at Fisherman's Wharf
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it pleasant. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
If you see something not so nice, please, report an inappropriate comment.
Recently Commented On
AHT Poll: How Do You Like Onions on Your Burger?
The Burger Lab: Which Makes A Better Burger, Grass-Fed or Grain?
Flip Burger Boutique in Atlanta: Flavorful and Well Crafted
This Sunday, 'California's Gold' Goes Behind the Scenes at In-N-Out Burger
The Burger from Rye House in Flatiron Could Use a Different Bun
Recently on Slice
A Hamburger Today is part of the Foodblog Ad Network. To advertise on AHT or across a network of food-related weblogs, visit Blogads.com.
39 Comments:
i have to wholeheartedly agree with this. I recently went home for thanksgiving and my first meal home apart from turkey day food was a 3x3 animal style with animal style fries. In-n-out is a way of life for myself and friends from southern california. There are always going to be better burgers out there (although not for the same price), but as a company and concept in-n-out is the ideal drive through burger and truly the only company I can think of that probably has sacrificed profits in order to maintain an intensly high quality product.
missing_LA at 3:57PM on 11/30/09
It took me a little while to warm up to In-N-Out's fries. At first, it seemed weird that they were made out of, you know, actual potatoes.
sfullers at 4:02PM on 11/30/09
I too make In-n-out a part of my food life whenever I stop in a city that has one (none here in Denver. :-( Hopefully some day.) It's the only fast-food burger I'll eat anymore. Stopped at one for a post-turkey-day meal this past Friday while visiting the fiancee's mother in Las Vegas -- goodness that is a tasty burger. Though my experiences there have involved incredible consistency, I was let down this time by slightly stale fries. If that's my worst complaint after a couple dozen trips, however, I feel like In-N-Out is doing a pretty freakin' good job.
JGordon at 4:04PM on 11/30/09
[frog-in-the-throat priest voice]Let us proclaim the mystery of burgers![/frog-in-the-throat priest voice]
Big Guy at 4:10PM on 11/30/09
Beautifully written. And I love In-N-Out so much that when I'm out west, I've been known to go three times in two days. It's my first stop off the plane!
Kerry Saretsky at 4:12PM on 11/30/09
I think the writer is mistaking the true meaning of the word overrated. To me, at least, this means that it is made out to be ZOMG SOOOOO much more amazing than anything else, when really, it's just on-par or marginally better. The food isn't even the issue for the "it's overrated" crowd - the issue is that so many people won't shut up about an effing cheeseburger joint. In-N-Out defenders usually do just that too: defend their opinion against someone who doesn't agree. Normally, debate is fine, but trying to strongarm your friend into agreeing which fast food burger they like the best is beyond retarded.
I like the fries ok, but the burgers seem a little greasier than most fast food to me, so the excitement that overtakes everyone else in the car when we're near one because we just HAVE to get In-N-Out because it's SO good turns my stomach.
It is not better nor worse than any other fast food to me, and I give the fresh food concept some points. I don't mind eating there, really, I just can't handle the endless Twi-hard level babbling about how good it is (and how I must be crazy to not think exactly like they do).
joyyy at 4:34PM on 11/30/09
Guilty! I've made several "overrated" comments in the past. I'm sure I'm in the minority, but you have to wonder at the over-the-top praise the place gets. I've had In-N-Out numerous times over the years. I have nothing against them overall. I commend In-N-Out for trying to provide the freshest product possible, but I submit that freshness isn't everything if the end product is still not superior. That's my problem with In-N-Out. It should taste better than it does.
Their meat doesn't have a lot of flavor to me, and the patties are small (I usually order a 4x4). Where's the burger-to-bun ratio penalty? I just don't care for their diminutive patties. Their "fresh" french fries absolutely suck, can I be any more clear about that? They're cut into tiny shoestrings, and half the time you get a tray of potato bits. So they'll overcook them for you, big deal, then you have burnt crappy fries. The buns, are you serious? There is nothing special about In-N-Out buns, lettuce, or cheese. Oh yeah, special sauce. Hold the damn special sauce!!!
I do not avoid In-N-Out, but I don't make it a point to go there either. Out here in San Bernardino there are a ton of burger joints to choose from. I just don't think In-N-Out is that special. I probably couldn't tell the difference between a In-N-Out and a Baker's.
They deserve a lot of credit for inspiring the current wave of clones. Everyone wants to be In-N-Out. It's obvious they have a winning formula, keep it fresh, and keep it simple. I do think they do raise the bar for fast-food establishments. That said, In-N-Out makes a well designed fresh "Big Mac". Is that such a horrible statement?
The truth is a lot of people are just so enamored with the concept and the kitsch of the place. It's like Trader Joe's, Costco, and Target fanboys. The incredibly posh people that like to tell everyone else how superior their lives are. These same people eat at In-N-Out. Search on Mitchell & Webb Look Waiter.
tjmile1 at 4:40PM on 11/30/09
I recently went to In-N-Out for the first time. I thought it was pretty good, but I will admit, it certainly wasn't the best burger I had ever had. However, I do feel like it was fun experiencing what others will defend to the death.
And I ordered off the secret menu. And I won't lie, I felt so cool doing so.
TheKitchenette at 4:46PM on 11/30/09
I think Nick understands very well what exactly In-n-Out is and what it means to those of us in Cali. Most Californians will agree that it is not the very best burger that they've had, but most often, it is our favorite burger stand. This is because it strikes the perfect balance between quality, price and service. It is fast food, but in a separate category all its own - sort of like fast food taken on the high road. I can't think of any other chains that fall into this special category.
yamatosoul at 5:14PM on 11/30/09
Exactly! I see it as a lifestyle/life experience thing. We need places like this to connect us to our roots, our geography, our sense of community. Quality of the burger aside, I think the cult/enjoyment has everything to do with what the experience of going to the burger joint means to us. My burger right of passage happens in Moab, at Milt's (Colorado girl heads west every spring).
CarolB at 5:47PM on 11/30/09
Thoughtfully written, but I'm still in the "overrated" camp. I understand that "the proper context in which to assess In-N-Out is in relation to other fast food joints, not a custom blended beef burger on a fancy bun that costs several times the cost of a whole meal at In-N-Out," but I just can't judge In-N-Out fairly anymore because I just don't eat fast food burgers anymore at this point in my life. Sure, when I was 22 I ate In-N-Out Burgers because, as you point out, none of the other chains give you as much quality for three bucks. But now that I can afford the fancy, juicy burgers, I just cannot get myself to cast my mind back to when I was younger and force myself to compare apples to apples.
Lorenzo at 6:53PM on 11/30/09
I never had the opportunity to eat there since I live Seattle. But it seems there's no big secret on their success. And it's always the same formula: fresh ingredients at an affordable price. Why others don't follow this easy formula more often is beyond me.
jkdrummer at 7:10PM on 11/30/09
Nick,
Don't you think "the way that a Catholic might find that the Eucharist brings them closer to Christ" is just a little bit over the top?
And as for "the Golden State's incarnation of the American Dream," seems to me there's at least one other burger joint that fulfills that better than In-and-Out, as its success surpasses In-and-Out.
Sometimes (mostly) a burger is just a burger, thank goodness. Don't burden it with things it can't support.
Sov at 7:41PM on 11/30/09
I hate the fries too. Though truth be told, I am a bit impressed to see them cut up the fries from actual russet potatoes and right in front of me. My only advice is to cut them fries up a bit fatter than that crappy shoestring size. As for the burgers, it's a good burger. Is it the best that I've had? No, but for the price, I'm not going to quibble with the minor details nor am I gonna whine about the small size of the patty (I think it's a reasonable size for any person).
AnnieNT at 7:48PM on 11/30/09
Growing up in Az going to In and Out in California was a special thing since it meant we were on a family trip. Now that they are starting to show up all over the place in Arizona, the mystique is gone as is my desire to go there. Yes, it's better at some things than McDonalds, BK, Carls Jr, Sonic, and Wendy's but In and Out is and was inadvertently built on hype due to their snail paced expansion. By looking at Yelp reviews of many Five Guys and Smashburger locations there is a lesson to learn. They were / are a refreshing glimpse at a company that grew without incurring debt and by always making sure quality fresh ingredients came before anything else. Their location, marketing, and exclusivity is responsible for much of what made them who they are and I applaud them. They are an American institution.
AZScott at 8:56PM on 11/30/09
I've eaten at many, many hamburger joints across the country, and In-N-Out more times than I can remember. Are there better burgers out there than In-N-Out's? Sure there are. Does anyone offer a burger as good as theirs for that price? No. No one does. No one.
WikiAdam at 9:21PM on 11/30/09
We have an In-N-Out blocks from the house, everyone here seems to go a bit crazy about them, including my husband, I don't think they are special in any way; just one of those things when if you are from certain place you *must* love a particular thing that everyone else in the place "loves".
Since I'm not from California, I'm free to disagree, at least in my american family's eyes.
If I have to go for a hamburger, I'd rather get a Carl's Jr. Six Dollar Cheeseburger; yes, they are expensive, but at my age, a hamburger is something you only get on occassion, therefore, I can afford it.
Hilde at 11:42PM on 11/30/09
I called Southern California home for 22 years, taking for granted that there was always an In-n-Out outlet (or two) close by. In my college days, there was a large, gleaming In-n-Out dine-in restaurant by the campus. When I was working there was one drive-thru by the office. And two nearby our home.
Their burgers (and fries) are some of the things I've missed the most since I moved to Indonesia less than 2 years ago. Shortly before my family and I left the States, my husband and I made a point to treat ourselves to our last In-n-Out meal (at least for a long, long time...).
cucumberpandan at 11:46PM on 11/30/09
As a general rule, I don't do fast food. But first thing I do off the plane in Chicago is go to Portillo's, and first thing I do off the plane in CA is go to In'N'Out.
madball911 at 11:49PM on 11/30/09
Way too much truth in this story, Nick.
James Boo at 12:27AM on 12/01/09
I used to HATE In-N-Out. For years I only ate there when I couldn't convince friends or family to eat elsewhere... until I ate my first double double.
My hate for In N Out quickly disappeared as soon as I ate my first double double. It's funny how an extra beef patty and slice of cheese can transform an incredibly plain burger into something so amazing.
dre2112 at 12:50AM on 12/01/09
I think people who don't have In-N-Outs in their states are the true disciples. I've lived in Southern California my whole life- aside from a hellish year in Arizona- and I've never really understood the fanaticism the place brings out in people. Sure, it's good, but it's hard to fuck up a cheeseburger. Even if I was crazy about the place, it'd be hard to get a burger there. The one up the street from my house is jam packed 24/7 with teenagers and we all know how horrible teenagers are.
PumpkinBear at 4:49AM on 12/01/09
I'm in the overrated camp. It's a freshly made Big Mac with the Big Mac flaws (not enough meat, cheap nasty cheese, overwhelming sauce).
If you drop the American cheese food product slices, and sweet goopy glop sauce, it's a horribly dry well done burger with a bad meat to bun ratio.
Sure you can order a 4xmeat, and request the meat be cooked medium. But in the end, I'd rather have a Carl's Jr SuperStar with no cheese and no special sauce. At Carl's the meat is even cheaper tasting, but it's thicker and charbroiled, and usually cooked to order.
Anyone who eats those six dollar burgers or "angus" burgers is eating reheated precooked patties. They are like Microwaved leftover meatloaf.
As for the fries, it's a nice idea, but the reality isn't all that good often dry, oddly bland. I prefer the fries from Chick-Fil-A which taste like potatoes, oil and salt, really good.
peekpoke at 8:43AM on 12/01/09
Anyone who argues that a Carls Jr burger is in some way better than In-N-Out should probably just stop eating burgers.
Burger365 at 10:20AM on 12/01/09
I'm a big fan of In-N-Out.
The fries are great - easily better than any other fast food in CA and a double double animal style is just good eating.
Is it the best burger ever? No. Is any burger the best ever? No. Should a burger that costs $3.10 be the best burger ever? No.
Really good (fast) food, good atmosphere, feel good factor (they pay their employees well, fresh ingredients, etc.) equals success.
Of course, there are people who don't like it or would like it if so many other people didn't like it so much. So, what.
sfmitch at 11:11AM on 12/01/09
I was just in LA last week for the holiday, and having grown up near Pasadena, I can truly say that going to in-n-out is one of my favorite childhood memories. Before the proliferation of locations across Southern California, I remember when there was only ONE within an hour of my house (now there are at least 10), and we'd wait in the car for 30 minutes, just to get a few burgers and shakes for the family.
And, I must highlight, it has (almost) nothing to do with the burger itself.
Sure, it's good, but the mojo at an in-n-out is unlike that of any other fast-food place in the country (and this is where I have a real problem with all of the I-N-O haters out there-- not every fast-food chain can conjure up the food and taste of the 1930's diner that you have in your small town in rural Indiana, so don't compare it to that). You've gotta just stop by any location (as Nick points out, the quality is universal) and take it in for what it is-- a classic fast-food experience with a freshly made product. Period.
burgerblogger at 11:37AM on 12/01/09
Portillo's is overrated too.
worldcupfever at 12:54PM on 12/01/09
@TJMILE - you are from Berdo? Im from Rialto but live with Dorothy and toto in Kansas now,...yay...
BUT I have to agree that either Bakers or I-N-O have the same "type" of burger; AND YES I am a huge fan of Bakers!! BUT I-N-O is just as good.
Lvn4life at 1:22PM on 12/01/09
ALSO @TJMILE and the other fans who live in the Inland Empire: Go to MOLLY'S CAFE near the San Bernardino Courthouse. 50's style joint with great burgers, CRINKLE-CUT fries, and REAL milk in the shakes and malts!
Lvn4life at 1:28PM on 12/01/09
i have nothing but love for in-n-out. cheap, fresh, and a california institution. it's a happy place for me.
megannesta at 4:04PM on 12/01/09
Anyone else ever notice that you can always tell an In-N-Out is nearby by the smell in the air...? My wife thinks it's the grilling onions...
ArkyTrojan at 4:40PM on 12/01/09
Anyone who compares In-N-Out to ordinary fast food is nuts, if it were fast food the burger would arrive squashed to half its original height, skewed to one side luke warm at best and lacking flavor (or just taste bad). I'm always amazed at how a fast food burger looks in an ad compared to the screwed up mess one usually gets, I attribute it to a poor work ethic that translates into poor job performance later in life for the regular fast food burger flipper.
ALRUI at 6:22PM on 12/01/09
I hope In-N-Out retains its So-Cal aura. They just put two in northern Utah and, while I'm excited to get my burger when the lines die down, it makes a trip to LA not quite as exciting.
sorahatch at 10:47PM on 12/01/09
Speaking of Corpus--I have the same feelings of belonging when I eat at the fast food hamburger chain that started in Corpus Christi, Texas-- Whataburger.
http://blogs.houstonpress.com/eating/2009/06/whataburger_texas_traveler.php
A double meat double cheese Whataburger with jalapeños is my fast food ideal. The triple meat triple cheese induces Catholic guilt.
http://blogs.houstonpress.com/eating/2006/07/
Robb Walsh at 11:19AM on 12/02/09
I love. I love. My sister lives in California and every time she picks me up at LAX we hit up the one right next to the airport. It's a real ritual. So much that whenever my flight gets in, no matter what the time, we dub it "burger thirty"
porkydickens at 1:25PM on 12/02/09
@ArkyTrojan:
Mmmm. Yes, I work at RRUCLA and there's one a couple of blocks down the street in Westwood and I frequently get a waft of grilling onions as I approach the medical center from the employee parking lot. It makes me want to devour a #1 for lunch, which I do, if I can make it there before they close (I work graveyard).
usrnmna at 6:26AM on 12/03/09
double double w/grilled onions and extra sauce... lots of salt on the fries... its the reason i miss CA. man. so F***ing good...
I have to comment as well, as a buisness connoisseur, i have always admired them for taking serious care of their employees as hard working members of a sort of family... owners are good peoples. good business ethics... craved food. and stubborn principles. you will never see one of these in NY, and im ok with that. they are that good. they just rock what they know really well. southern california identity burger deliciousness... nice
...mjt_www.scratchbread.com
SCRATCHbrooklyn at 8:06AM on 12/03/09
5 guys burgers and fries... NY Style Yeah baby
tom schneller at 1:51PM on 12/04/09
As a recent transplant to CA, I had only previously heard of In N Out through friends. Songs of how great the burgers are and how awesome the fries are made me wish I had not been born in OH. When I moved to the SF bay area, I was introduced to them finally.
My first taste wasn't that great, partially due to it being a cold night and the burger (not knowing any better, I bought a single) had lost its flavor by the time I ate it. The experience I had been hoping for was a huge letdown. I decided to try them again and ordered a 3x3 animal style. This had changed my opinion entirely. I'm now a convert.
However, that isn't to say it's the best burger I've had. I still find myself going back to BK for a double cheeseburger or Carls Jr Double Western (another guilty pleasure). Each big-chain burger joint has it's own flair and tends to have that 1 item that appeals to your taste buds.
When you leave the smaller places behind, the feeling of nostalgia overcomes you when you think of things you used to eat. I have fond memories of Mr Hero in Cleveland (their Romanburger is habit-forming) or even old-time favorites like White Castle (frozen isn't the same no matter what anybody who has never ordered a sack tells you). I guess I'd have the same to say about Cali if I ever had to leave.
Of course, I still say homemade is the best. I make a peppered burger that is out of this world and my wife makes a killer turkey/apple/bacon one. But those things can always be made and can't replace the late-night cravings of a greasy, sloppy and oh-so-bad-for-you-but-oh-so-good fast food burger.
Just my $0.02.
/usr/bin/food at 4:55AM on 12/05/09