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Dear AHT: Sick of Undercooked Burgers

Here's a question we received yesterday in the AHT inbox from Serious Eats reader ratbuddy.

20090715-gandg-burgerinnards.jpg

Does this photo make you go, "Nooooo!" You're not alone. [Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Dear AHT, Letters From Our ReadersPlease get at least one reviewer who likes their meat cooked. Seeing every burger you review (under)cooked rare or medium rare is getting old and I'd bet many of your other readers would agree. That poll on burger-doneness ended up with almost half the voters selecting medium or higher. Where's our representative??

Thanks.

Here are some responses from the AHT crew on optimal burger doneness.

Nick Solares (NYC/NJ correspondent):

The burgers you refer to (rare, medium rare) are no more "under cooked" than the well done ones you like are "over cooked." Temperature preference is a subjective parameter. I may critique a restaurant for not delivering a burger as ordered, but if it is delivered at a predetermined temperature (In-N-Out, Five Guys, all the slider joints I have reviewed) then I judge the burger for what it is. And, for the record, while I like my burgers rare (and my steak black and blue), I have given plenty of positive endorsements to burgers cooked all the way through. In fact, of my last 14 reviews 10 of them have been of burgers that were cooked medium or beyond. On the occasions when I review burgers that are rare, I often note on how I think they will be when cooked further.

Damon Gambuto (Los Angeles correspondent):

What I am looking for in my burger's temperature you might call the sweet (meat) spot. There are a number of things about how a burger is cooked that affect the texture and flavor, but, generally speaking, cooking a patty to a medium rare maximizes two important aspects of—what is for me—the pleasure of eating meat.

As I understand it, there is connective-tissue (collagen) in meat that, when raw or undercooked, is fibrous and tough. For me, chewing meat that is raw or undercooked initiates a bit of a gag reflex from that tough, fibrous chew. Certainly grinding meat (steak tartar) or slicing it thinly (carpaccio) combats this, but my preference is to do away with that feeling all together. You can do that by adding some heat, a.k.a, cooking. Raising the temperature of the meat turns that tough collagen into fluid (or fluid gelatin). That takes a good bit of temperature all the way through the patty, but what is also happening when you give it all that heat is that moisture evaporates out of your patty (which I think is bad). Too much heating makes for a very dry and mealy burger with lots of the fat and moisture, rendered out of it (searing doesn't "seal in" the juices). The mouthfeel of this burger is much less appealing to my fat and juice-loving self. As it happens, you can phase shift that tough connective-tissue at the temperature (that most folks call) medium rare. So the answer for me is to stop cooking at that temperature to maximize the connective-tissue breakdown and minimize the moisture loss. Not too cool, not too hot; a happy medium (rare).

Daniel Zemans (Chicago correspondent):

Regarding the poll, I can't help but wonder how many of the people who selected medium actually prefer the taste of medium as opposed to being scared of the health issues regarding ground beef that have been, in my opinion, grossly overstated. For those who have actually tasted a medium rare or rare burger but still prefer the flavor of a medium well burger, there is nothing that I can say that will change their mind. I will say that to the extent beef flavor is supposed to be the centerpiece of the burger, there is far more meat flavor when the burger has more fat and juice in it, elements that leave the burger the more the meat is cooked.

Leaving aside the debates over taste, it seems to me that ratbuddy's issue is less with our descriptions than with exposure to pictures of burgers he finds unappetizing due to the abundance of pinkness. To that complaint, I have a couple of thoughts. First, I think the more colorful burgers make for nicer photos. Second, I think pictures of a medium rare or rare burger do a much better job of getting across the chef's technical skill. A burger can be made of the highest quality meat and be masterfully seasoned, but if it's not cooked to the requested temperature, the burger eater will be disappointed. People can look at a picture of medium rare or rare burger and know how they were cooked. The visual distinctions between burgers cooked anywhere on the spectrum above medium are virtually, if not entirely nonexistent. So to the extent a picture can enhance a description of the doneness of a burger, a photo of a burger cooked all the way to medium or beyond isn't going to be much help.

And me:

I gravitate towards the medium rare-rare end to increase my chances of burger deliciousness. When I can request how I want a thicker burger cooked (not at places like In-N-Out and Five Guys), I go for medium rare because most of the ones I've eaten that were medium or beyond tasted too dry. Not to say that raw meat is always delicious, but dry meat is...usually not.

Who else wants to see more cooked burgers on this site?

30 Comments:

Rare for me but unfortunately it's absolutely impossible to get anything other than overdone anywhere in the UK. DIY is the key!

I vote for rare to medium rare. I think it makes for amazing food porn and there's nothing I hate more than a dry burger. Very few places make a decent well cooked burger. Shake Shack is the most well done burger I can enjoy usually.

A cooked burger is not necessarily dry. There's a point where the majority of the fat will be rendered and be at the peak of juiciness. To me, a rare burger is still holding onto that fat and is not done until it's released.

Wow, I didn't think my little rant would rally the troops like that :)

I think what gets my goat is seeing so many amazing burgers on AHT and thinking 'damn, if only it was cooked.'

I've had raw, rare, medium rare, and any other kind of beef you can think of. I just think something magical happens when it gets cooked through, and the flavor jumps into another league. I'm not talking about crappy beef cooked to the point of dryness. I'm talking about quality stuff *just barely* cooked all the way through. It stays juicy when done right, trust me. Many places do fail on well done, thinking it means 'kill it again' but when well executed, there's nothing better. If there's doubt or when ordering from a place that overcooks the meat, I do go for medium well rather than well done.

I know most (all?) of AHT's expert reviewers don't prefer that type of burger preparation, but surely I can't be alone on this one? Nick, I know what I consider undercooked you would think is overcooked. I wasn't saying you guys are all eating undercooked meat, that was just my way of making the point. Different strokes, and of course it's all subjective.

I was just hoping to see a review or two cooked the way *I* like it. Maybe that was selfish of me, and please don't think I don't appreciate all the work you folks put into the reviews - I wouldn't check the site multiple times a day if they weren't great.

:beer:

My vote is medium or higher.

However, I don't knock people's preferences. Eat what you want they way you want it.

Having said that, AHT has AMAZING pics of burgers though the one above looks extremely rare. I always get hungry when I come to this site, dammit!

Always been a "medium" guy, myself. I can do medium rare... but no lower. Don't care for higher than medium, either.

It's always been medium for me. Most places know that "medium" is still very pink in the middle. That said, I've often gotten burgers overcooked and have started asking for "medium rare" to get "medium."

And I agree with Nick that there are plenty of places out there that do a damn fine burger or slider cooked "through."

As rare as the law will allow for me!

jkdrummer is the genius. He's hit it on the nose. What he said is what is the essence of the "hamburger sandwich".
If my hamburger looks like it does in that picture, it damn well better be a tuna.

Daniel Zemans (Chicago correspondent):" I will say that to the extent beef flavor is supposed to be the centerpiece of the burger, there is far more meat flavor when the burger has more fat and juice in it, elements that come out the more the meat is cooked."

I'm not sure about how you're saying what you're saying here.
I 'hope' you're saying that the burger is more flavorful and juicy when it is thoroughly (and obviously properly) cooked. Cooking is what makes anything flavorful and juicy. That's why we do it.

@bebo: I think he's saying that when meat is cooked too long, the juice and fat have a tendency to come out too. We're against overcooking meat to the point that it's dry and tasteless, not against cooking meat in general. And we know cooking meat to well done doesn't automatically mean it will be dry and tasteless, but it happens a lot.

Have to admit, the sight of the interior of a really underdone burger makes me feel squeamish. I'm not saying they're 'bad' (once, I really liked my burgers rare right at the centre), but my reaction now is just a strong, visceral 'ERGH'. The unfortunate combination of an E. Coli infection traced to a burger (there was an outbreak, and unfortunately, unless the meat is ground in a completely clean machine, from pieces of meat that are entirely clean on their surfaces, this is a risk), was the original trigger. Then I researched it, and thought about it, and that put paid to my pleasure in less-than well-done burgers.

When given a choice, like at a brewpub, I order medium without thinking. My 2 favorite burgers are 5 Guys and White Rose, which I guess would be considered well done or medium well. Nick, I know you've been to these places as well as the Windmill. Would you consider these burgers well done?

@bebo: I could have written that more clearly. Robyn is exactly right.

I think its all a matter of individual taste. Not everyone likes their meat medium-rare or below, and that does seem to be the overwhelming majority of review pictures.

Personally i don't like when the meat is too dry either, but as has been mentioned above, cooking it a bit more, say medium or medium-well on the rare occasion, doesn't have to be a bad experience.

I don't know if its common or not, but i enjoy the cooked taste, with just the right proportion of juices. A steak cooked medium does that for me, and it probably varies with taste.

I wouldn't eat most of the burgers pictured. They look raw not undercooked,

I make hamburgers at home with ground sirloin cooked through and they are not dry. The secret is cover them with onions while you are cooking them.

Bebo and Daniel, reading over this, I still think the meaning of "come out" is confusing. Now, as I read most of your initial post, Daniel, you like burgers rare or medium rare because there "is far more meat flavor when the burger has more fat and juice in it". The next clause of the sentence seems to be adjectival, alluding to "elements that come out the more the meat is cooked." The "come out" can be interpreted two ways: come out as leave, or come out as be increasingly noticed.

From what you said earlier in you post I suspect the former, but I don't think it's entirely clear yet.

@Sov: I'll replace "come out" with "leave the burger."

@Sov: To be crystal clear: I meant come out as in leave. The more the beef is cooked, the more the fat breaks down and the fat juices and the meat juices are progressively cooked out of the burger.

Sprout, have you ever been to London? At most fairly respectable places, you will get a medium burger, and at most good places, you will get a medium rare burger as standard.

Medium for me,...and I dont think I've had a burger that was as succulent as it had been at medium. Anything made less than that is still "moo-ing".

I am a rare burger man myself (ever since the server at P.J. Clarke's mistakenly swapped my medium burger with a coworker's 6 years ago) but I think this is less about individual preferences than documenting well made, exceptional burgers.

Like it or not (I don't), a rare or even medium-rare burger is an exception these days, and worthy of photographing for reasons beyond aesthetics. Probably 75% of the time that I order a cheeseburger, not counting places like 5 Guys, my request for rare is received with a nod and a smile, after which I receive something that's gray and flavorless all the way through. My experiences have also been that outside of NYC, "underdone" burgers are even harder to procure. Well-done burger eaters, be content with the knowledge that outside of this site and a few accommodating spots, it's your world that we are all living in. Let me smile at the blood-dripping meat on the screen, even if you think I'm insane and/or risking my health.

(also, the idea of a well-done sirloin burger, mentioned above, is horrifying. Rare ground chuck, please, with a slice of American.)

Looks from the poll like the medium-or-more vote only has slightest of margins (51 to 49 right now). Also, I imagine that people who want a medium burger (I'm on the MR/MED line) will not be made squeamish by seeing a picture of one that is medium-rare so I don't know how useful it is to lump them in with the well-doners.

Here in Toronto it is a battle against regulations, servers, and proprietors to get a less-than-well burger so it is always good to see photographic evidence when restaurants are (safely) serving burgers the way I like them. You can always ask for a more well-done burger.

Thanks for the great work.

I like great meat cooked medium well, average meat cooked well. Charred, even. I figure, our ancestors worked to harness fire, and I'm not going to diss their memory - or my digestive tract. Pink is good in other circumstances and locations, but my burgers? No way.

Actually, this last comment makes me wonder if there should be a new poll--whether a burger has ever given you food poisoning, e coli, etc. I've never been felled by any of the above, nor has anyone I know, but maybe there's a well-reasoned fear of rare after all? I've previously attributed a liking for well-done burgers to irrationality, a la those who fear immunizations, etc. Anyone?

morganoliver, just to be clear, are you really saying people only dislike rare burgers out of fear?

Well not entirely. I absolutely think it's true for a number of those who don't order rare burgers (including real life friends and some commenters above, such as the one who said he wasn't going to diss his digestive tract), that fear of food-borne ilness plays some role in their preference. For that subset of burger fans, I'm wondering when and how their concern developed.

Anecdotally, when someone takes issue with my ordering a rare burger, it's typically on the grounds that I am playing Russian Roulette with my life.

These days, I find myself eating more steak tartare than cooked hamburgers of any level of doneness, so I disqualify myself from commenting on burger doneness. Raw meat is fine with me, and photos of lightly cooked meat with bright red centers are quite visually pleasing to me.

I personally love the photography of the burgers as I'm one who prefers her burgers as rare as possible. Whenever I see an autopsy shot of a burger that's been cooked through, my mind just goes down the rabbit hole of "well, that's a damn shame" because my brain equates gray/pink-gray meat with dry and tough. Sort of the opposite reaction of the folks that have the visceral reaction to the red and rosy burgers.

@morganoliver ~ good observation. My dislike of "pink" burgers goes back to getting sick from undercooked ground meat. Can't even eat my way around the undercooked parts of a burger; must be at least very medium well.

I do like my steak and lamb and tuna pink. However, I don't ever want to see bloody drippings on my plate. Others may eat what they like, even in my company. In fact, my ex-husband and best friend used to order steak tartare and I didn't care one bit! Just as long as I didn't have to eat it....

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