PrintA Disappointing Classic at Rick's Drive In and Out in Silver Lake, California
Rick's Drive In and Out
2400 Fletcher Drive, Los Angeles CA 90039 (map); 323-660-5988; ricksdriveinandout.com
Cooking Method: Char-broiled
Short Order: A much admired local eatery fails to deliver anything more than burger mediocrity.
Want Fries with That? No thanks. These frozen and unseasoned spuds missed the mark.
Prices: 1/4-pound cheeseburger, $3.49
Notes: The Mexican meals and breakfast get a lot of attention too, but it all seems like affordable hangover food to me.
I can already hear the devotees of Rick’s Drive In and Out clamoring about the title of this week’s review. Many of the burgers that come across my plate have their loyal supporters, but Rick’s is a restaurant—or should I say small chain—that has a developed a loving and loyal following through its many years. In fact, I’ve even received emails asking for a little coverage of this classic drive-in. I know calling it a disappointment will raise hackles, but perhaps they should take some of the blame; that is to say, if my expectations hadn’t been lifted by the fandom, there may have been less cause for disappointment.
Truth be told, I had expectations all my own. My relatively recent move to the eastern half of the city put me within just a couple of minutes of the Silver Lake outpost of Rick's. My lazy, cheapskate, burger-loving heart held such high hopes for a restaurant that was as close and as affordable as my neighborhood's Rick's.
Their burgers are all multiples of the 1/4-pound patty. I ordered a single cheeseburger and a double for safety. As I often find that these 1/4-pound patty joints find their stride with the double, I wanted to be sure that I had a fair representation of what a burger can be at Rick's. Unfortunately, in this case, medium rare isn't part of its potential—when I asked for it at my temperature, I was shrugged off.
The order is taken at the register and then you head off to your seat. I was pleased to find that Rick's doesn't bother with plastic numbers suspended from metal holders, nor do they employ the electronic beeper system (worse yet) to locate you. You simply give them your name and then they call it out when your food is served. I can imagine regulars enjoying being recognized and new clients feeling a little more welcome with this first name game.
My food came out with a call of "Damien." Oh well, I’m used to people pronouncing my name with the extra vowels and snickers about The Omen. I appreciated the effort.
The burgers and fries arrived in the classic drive-in paper wrapping and looked lovely. The single was still a sizable mouthful, but my fears about the svelte 1/4-pound patty were well founded. The meat, overcooked to a fast food gray, did little to stand up to an above average-sized bun and heaps of lettuce and tomato. But that didn't mean the double couldn't come to my lunch's rescue.
The double is, even in its look, more balanced burger. First the good: the condiments were stand-outs. The shredded lettuce, usually a soggy mess, was crisp and cool and a surprising delight. The tomato was even better. Now, one could be dismissive of this by noting that we are in prime tomato season here in Southern California and it's to be expected that I'd get a good tomato. But considering that my local Von’s finds a way to stock flavorless tomatoes in the summertime, Rick’s gets credit for choosing a good purveyor. The "sauce" tasted like a standard Thousand Island to me, but added a pleasant sweetness.
Now for the bad. While the sesame bun looked lovely, it lacked the sponginess I look for in the good commercial varietals. Rick’s has chosen the bready and sturdy version that—while I would guess is better for traveling (the "out" part of the In and Out)—is ultimately less tasty. Then there is the meat. With a double patty I was able to get a better sense of what it offers this sandwich. The answer is: not much. Once again, the patties were cooked to a wan gray and yet they still lacked any satisfying char. There was also almost no hint of seasoning—the meat was little more than warm, chewy texture.
Rick's is consistently abuzz with activity, so they've clearly figured out a formula that satisfies their regulars. It's just a formula that doesn't do much for my burger needs. While their version finds some bright spots with the condiments, I don't think a supporting cast can carry a movie. This meal wasn't horror show, but it certainly wasn't for me. Maybe it was all for Damien.
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19 Comments:
Looks like they need fattier meat and a hotter griddle. The meat does look dry.
jkdrummer at 5:02PM on 08/12/09
Rick's sounds like a pleaser for well-done-burger-lovers..I actually not only know a few but in fact are related to them....hard to imagine...
SAKSc at 5:08PM on 08/12/09
Reminds me of Red Mill here in Seattle. They are always in the top burgers of the city, but they produce just mediocre burgers, nothing to rave about, at least in comparison of some of the ones that seem to get left off (Two Bells is a prime example). Many people just don't know what a good burger is and have only had mediocrity their whole lives.
KingBoo at 5:31PM on 08/12/09
Sorta looks like a Big Mac to me...
ratbuddy at 6:43PM on 08/12/09
as a lover of Rick's, i have to ask... what did you expect? if you go to a fast food place like that expecting to be able to request your preferred cooking temperature, then i really have to wonder what kind of scale you're using to judge all the burgers you eat. it's a great fast food burger that's cheap. i could be mistaken, but i'm pretty sure you can't request medium rare at in-n-out or fatburger, why expect it here? maybe you were misled by friends... that's the only thing i can think of... welcome to silver lake!
jenniferann at 8:51PM on 08/12/09
Damon, I have read numerous of your burger reviews and I feel like I gotta say something. I really appreciate how in-depth your reviews and how seriously you take them. At the same time, the places you are going are so obviously mediocre to start that there is really no point in reviewing them. It would be much better if you were going to places that are actually known for having good burgers rather than just going to random hole-in-walls and then finding that, lo and behold, the burger is exactly as average as one would expect from some place nobody has ever heard of.
All I'm saying is, I appreciate the effort you're putting into these reviews, but you would be better served by going to places where at least there is some expectation that there will be a good burger rather than just random junky burger shops. I don't even mind you going to a random place if you at least have heard from some people that it had really good burgers. But just going to any random burger joint really is kind of pointless and a waste of your time and talents.
film_score at 10:44AM on 08/13/09
I don't understand... wasn't that the whole intro and main point of this post-- that he had heard that it had really good burgers???
And I for one am surprised to hear that it was a let down-- people go nuts for this place. My expectations were much higher than those of a standard "fast food" burger, so I'm happy to have fair warning-- thanks!
iheartcheese at 11:24AM on 08/13/09
"i could be mistaken, but i'm pretty sure you can't request medium rare at in-n-out or fatburger, why expect it here? "
jenniferann you are mistaken. You can most definitely order your burger medium-rare at In-N-Out, even shows up on your receipt.
Burger365 at 11:29AM on 08/13/09
I like the fact that Damon visits burger shops with a wide variety of styles/price ranges. Look at the little sum-up table up top, below the first set of pics.
"Prices: 1/4-pound cheeseburger, $3.49"
That sets my expectations at fast-food quality. My expectations were met, and Damon got what he paid for. Good review, and I'd buy one of those $5 1/2 lb'ers.
daemon at 11:43AM on 08/13/09
uh people, if you read the article you will see this line: "Rick’s is a restaurant—or should I say small chain—that has a developed a loving and loyal following through its many years. In fact, I’ve even received emails asking for a little coverage of this classic drive-in."
As you can tell by the article itself, Damon reviewed this place because everyone kept telling him how awesome it was. WTF do you people expect? Also this place is a drive-in which I do not equate with fast food, you may get the food fast but that doesn't make it a McD's. You people need to lighten up a bit, if a place makes a burger they are open to criticism.
stewmeat at 2:46PM on 08/13/09
personally, having lived in the area for years and been to Rick's many many times, I classify it as fast food - and so does everyone I know. i'm sure we all have different definitions of that, but Rick's definitely fits mine. I hold it in the same regard as innout, fatburger, the hat, etc. and of all those, it is my favorite. it doesn't have to be yours, of course. but i will say, although apparently you can request your cooking temp at innout, that seems pretty silly to me at a fast food place. it's just not what i expect from something like that. most people i know have different standards for a small drive-thru than for a fancy restaurant. but that's just me. of course they are open to criticism, i just think that the standards to which they were being held felt inappropriate for the kind of place it is. but again, it's just my opinion. i will continue to enjoy it's greasy goodness :)
jenniferann at 8:51PM on 08/13/09
Hmm,I thought this would be a bit of a controversial review.
Ok - first off, thanks to everyone for the input. I am always interested to hear what the Serious Eaters have to say even if it doesn't come down in my favor (of course, I love the love the most).
@jkdrummer - good call. More heat would have definitely helped these burgers.
@ratbuddy - the doble definitely has a Big Mac look, but I'd say Rick's has less of the sweet notes of the McD's version.
@KingBoo - Indeed! We're I sort through the mediocrity here in LA and sometimes I can still be surprised how many places just don't get it.
@film_score - First off, thanks for being complimentary and constructive with your criticism. If I'm gonna get criticized, that's the best kind. As for your concerns... Well, some of the comments have addressed your suggestions in a manner that I would echo. Rick's wasn't random. Truth be told... almost none of my reviews are. That said, I do let serendipity step in between me and review from time to time. With respect to the burgers I choose to review - this is a bit up for debate. Nick Solares and I have talked about this a lot as we both will often get comments saying that our choice of review is unjustified. At some level, we both feel that if a burger is served, it merits a review. We do - of course - like to curate our meal choices so some thought will always go into it. In any case, I encourage you to look through the reviews over the past (gulp) almost a year and I bet you find a lot of delicious burgers to choose from.
@iheartcheese - yes, I agree. I think the point was addressed in the piece. Thanks for the support.
@Burger365 - Nice heads up. I probably should have mentioned this is in the review, but yes MR is a choice at many "fast food" locations. In fact, I bet a lot of us would enjoy more of our burgers if we defied the expectation of many of the places and made a temperature order.
@daemon - Nicely put... And great screen name!
@stewmeat - Thanks for having my back. I have received numerous calls for a Rick's review and - Darn tootin' - any place that makes me a hamburger is open to my criticism.
@jenniferann - I get your loyalty and lowered expectations about 'fast food' - but I don't get the "seems pretty silly to me" about asking for a temperature order at a fast food place (unless you are making the e. coli argument). You questioned my judgment about how I was reviewing this place based on the assumption that you couldn't make a temperature request at in-n-out and then, when you found out you could, you said it was irrelevant. Hmm?
Anyway - I am always open criticism and I appreciate the your dissenting voice and all the voices here at AHT.
Damon Gambuto at 10:00PM on 08/13/09
I just gotta say as a long time reader I'm surprised at the controversy around this review. I'm not sure I understand film_score's comment -- at all. "It would be much better if you were going to places that are actually known for having good burgers rather than just going to random hole-in-walls..." Um... duh. That's like criticizing wikipedia for having an entry on a subject you don't know about. What I love about Damon's AHT is that he's going to places we often haven't heard of. Would anyone watch Andrew Zimmern if he went to Marie Calendar's, Denny's or any other number of known food joints? One of the great pleasures in life is discovering new foods and new places for food. Damon, please don't go "to places where at least there is some expectation that there will be a good burger" because we can get that perspective anywhere. Let's face it, you're a burger guru and I for one never paid much attention to hamburgers until I discovered your blog. Thank you.
And as far as the whole ordering medium rare at a "fast food" place controversy is concerned, I don't see the point. If you like your food prepared a certain way you should ask for it. Can anyone say "animal style", "flying dutchman" or "well done fries"? Last I checked In N Out is considered fast food. Your first blog was on Bill's Burgers - a hole in the wall burger stand in Van Nuys where I've now visited on several occasions and Bill has never shrugged off a request for a medium rare burger. Some places accommodate and others don't and that's a sizable factor in where I spend my hard earned $$.
dzhughes at 1:49PM on 08/14/09
we just have different ideas of what a burger from a place like Rick's should be. can't we just agree to disagree? i'm sorry that i think it's really weird to try and request a medium-rare hamburger from a fast food place - whether it be from innout or mcdonalds. that's just how myself and people i hang with feel. we can all feel differently, yes? i was just putting my opinion out there - isn't that what comments are for? anyway, i am a burger lover and i love rick's. that's all i guess i should've said - and thus avoided any debate about burger rights :)
it is an interesting point though as far as a reviewing philosophy is concerned. i'm curious: do you adjust your scale depending on the kind of place you go to? or do you uphold all places to the same standard - a taco stand to the same as a five star restaurant? i suppose reviewers all approach that dilemma differently - what is your approach?
jenniferann at 2:08PM on 08/14/09
one thing in your review really jumped out at me.
your local von's?
things really have changed.
a to the pt, 2 to the 01 4 EVAH BITCHES!
i worry i've lowered the level of discourse with my nostalgic shout-out.
serious eaters eat seriously.
ochlocrat at 8:32PM on 08/14/09
just caught up with this review... i am loathe to take someone's subjective opinion to heart as i am a big believer in "different strokes for different folks"... but that said... DUUUUDE!.... rick's has got to be my favorite example of the "traditional classic california diner" burger... i just have to agree to disagree with you my friend... Rick's rocks!
p.s. and i dig the fries too.. what they lack in in-n-out fresh cut bona fides freshness, they make up for in volume... yes please... though i admit that i do take them home sometimes and give them a good shake of season salt...
HerbyN at 8:23PM on 08/19/09
@HerbyN - No need to qualify. You are always allowed to take my opinions to heart. In fact, you are one of the readers I expected to hear from on this one. I just can't get there with Rick's. It's just ordinary to me. Do you really consider it the best? Better than Pie 'n Burger?
Damon Gambuto at 8:47PM on 08/19/09
i don't consider pie 'n burger a "fast food" joint so much as a "historic" diner "institution"... also the burgers are priced in a way that you are paying a premium for the "history" and "reputation" of the place.... again, if i have a quick burger jones and don't want to wait 30 mins to get fed and over pay a little Rick's will still be my Northeast LA choice...
now... is Rick's "destination eating"? no. but yes... i'd rather go to Rick's than drive to Pasadena for Pie 'n Burger... for me Rick's has a warm place in my heart right there with my favorite Santa Monica drive-up, greasy spoon, Big Jo's (on Broadway @ 20th)... with the qualification that they are both my favorite examples of a certain genre of california burger within a certain price range.
HerbyN at 3:08PM on 08/20/09
@jenniferann if i weren't already married i'd proposed to you sight unseen... so loved your spirited defense of Rick's... good on ya!
HerbyN at 1:03PM on 08/21/09