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In Ed Levine's weekly review on Serious Eats New York, he heads to Greek restaurant Kefi on Manhattan's Upper West Side. You might expect a lamb burger or some such there, but it's a beef burger that has some brisket in the mix, "for moistness," one of the folks there said.

As Ed says, "It's tasty enough, with its manouri cheese and sun-dried-tomato topping, but give me Psilakis' killer lamb burger and chickpea fries at Anthos any day."

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I went with Ed to shoot some last-minute photos this afternoon and had a bit of the burger there.

Ed said what needs to be said, but I'll elaborate a bit. The flavor of the beef was fine, but it was masked by the Greekification of the overall burger. The sun-dried-tomato topping overpowers a bit, and the bun is too tough and too large for this burger.

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The burger I tried earlier today was overcooked and dry. In fairness, Ed had set up a photo shoot, and the cook later reported that he was cooking it for photo purposes only and didn't think we'd try it. That said, Ed did report that the burger he ate there for reviewing purposes (autopsy above) was also dry, even though he ordered it rare.

Imagining even the juiciest burger there, though, and I still don't know if the bun would work with it. I think its tough exterior would stand up to the moisture but the sheer amount of bread seems like it still skew the beef-to-bun ratio.

There are so many other great things to eat at Kefi—like the four spreads meze plate or the amazing meatballs. You should stick with them.

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