James, the man behind The Eaten Path, visits Burger Joint in the Parker Meridien and walks out with a scathing take on the place:
As I made my way through the burger, however, the illusion began to slip from my senses. I took another look around and noticed the details of the decor: a Heroes promotional poster was followed by Indiana Jones and the Legend of the Crystal Skull, posted alongside a stock second-era blowup of the Ramones. These tossed off splashes of popular culture continued their dance all the way around the dining room, ironically revealing in their placement just how carefully this "joint" had been planned. New York has a way of packaging "home" as a commodity and pricing it as a special occasion, and this meal, planted in the heart of Midtown Manhattan and shrouded by perfectly articulated mystique on the grounds of one of the neighborhood’s prominent luxury hotels, was, in fact, an illusion. It was a tasty illusion but an illusion all the same—after all, I don’t remember having ever paid $7 for a burger grilled in my backyard.
While James' postings on The Eaten Path are uniformly thoughtful and insightful—this one, too—I think he misses the point here. I'm not quite sure the place is really supposed to feel like "home." I've always thought Burger Joint has worn the trappings of a 1970s suburban rec room with a bit of a smirk.
How could Burger Joint, with a straight face, possibly try to convince you it's recreating "home" when it's inside the lux interior of the Meridien? I think the point exactly is that it is out of place there.
And it's not like the place feels any more comfortable for its homey atmosphere—not with the anxiety you feel about getting a table and the pressure you feel to eat and leave quickly as patrons hover for a seat.
I agree with the OP--the point of Burger Joint is to be deliberately as different from Le Parker Meridien as possible. If it's trying to create something other than a counterpoint, that thing would be a dive "Burger Joint" as the name implies, (in some small town in Texas or the southwest perhaps?) not someone's home.
I agree that he's missing the point. I've only had a few experiences with this place, and they've all been great, but I've also only visited on the weekends at around 11:30 or noon, when the Joint is basically empty.
I famously said to my girlfriend on our first trip "This is my favorite dining room in New York". Sure, its' going for some vibe, but its not trying too hard. It's kind of dopey and kitchy, but its comfortable - like any good rec room. I also don't think one stich of it is ironic (the decor in most rec rooms isn't either) If anyhting the vibe of the place says "don't worry, you're welcomed here". That is, if are lucky enough to find a seat....
I used to like Burger Joint, but after I recent stop there I doubt I'll go back. I don't mind the cocky attitude of the cashier, it's fine, it's NY, I'm used to it, but the burger, which is overpriced to begin with was overcooked, on a stale bun with tasteless fries. Over the years I've seen it go downhill, but that was a new low.
Haha- Adam, I think "scathing" would be a bit sensational. On the plus side, the fightin' words did earn me my first ever hate mail:
"You are about 5 years late on Burger Joint. And nothing personal, but you wouldn't take my opinion on dumplings, nor is anyone going to take what an asian guy says about burgers with any amount of credibility. Its true"
@theeatenpath: I think, yeah, maybe "scathing" is a bit sensational. Congrats on the hate mail. You're nobody till somebody hates you. Fuck that shit about dumplings vs. burgers and Asians. That's crap. Doesn't matter what race you are, you eat burgers or dumplings or whatever enough and you get to know what's good.
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7 Comments:
I agree with the OP--the point of Burger Joint is to be deliberately as different from Le Parker Meridien as possible. If it's trying to create something other than a counterpoint, that thing would be a dive "Burger Joint" as the name implies, (in some small town in Texas or the southwest perhaps?) not someone's home.
chevalier at 4:25PM on 03/02/09
I agree that he's missing the point. I've only had a few experiences with this place, and they've all been great, but I've also only visited on the weekends at around 11:30 or noon, when the Joint is basically empty.
I famously said to my girlfriend on our first trip "This is my favorite dining room in New York". Sure, its' going for some vibe, but its not trying too hard. It's kind of dopey and kitchy, but its comfortable - like any good rec room. I also don't think one stich of it is ironic (the decor in most rec rooms isn't either) If anyhting the vibe of the place says "don't worry, you're welcomed here". That is, if are lucky enough to find a seat....
JudgeFudge at 5:10PM on 03/02/09
I agree that he's missing the point.
Go, eat the burger and Stop trying to make the World More complicated.
phauxtoe at 5:35PM on 03/02/09
Are you sure "The Eaten Path" isn't a blog about interior design?
benzado at 5:41PM on 03/02/09
I used to like Burger Joint, but after I recent stop there I doubt I'll go back. I don't mind the cocky attitude of the cashier, it's fine, it's NY, I'm used to it, but the burger, which is overpriced to begin with was overcooked, on a stale bun with tasteless fries. Over the years I've seen it go downhill, but that was a new low.
ginsbera at 6:09PM on 03/02/09
Haha- Adam, I think "scathing" would be a bit sensational. On the plus side, the fightin' words did earn me my first ever hate mail:
"You are about 5 years late on Burger Joint. And nothing personal, but you wouldn't take my opinion on dumplings, nor is anyone going to take what an asian guy says about burgers with any amount of credibility. Its true"
I love it! But, talk about missed points...
James Boo at 7:08PM on 03/02/09
@theeatenpath: I think, yeah, maybe "scathing" is a bit sensational. Congrats on the hate mail. You're nobody till somebody hates you. Fuck that shit about dumplings vs. burgers and Asians. That's crap. Doesn't matter what race you are, you eat burgers or dumplings or whatever enough and you get to know what's good.
Adam Kuban at 8:46PM on 03/02/09