PrintDiscovering the Fifth Taste at Umami Burger in Los Angeles
Umami Burger
850 South La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles CA 90036 (map); 323-931-3000; umamiburger.com
Cooking Method: Griddled
Short Order: A gourmet burger that is both true to the form and deliciously original
Want Fries with That? They are more visually striking than tasty, but are a meticulous rendering of boil, fry, fry technique
Prices: Umami burger, $8
Notes: Mon. to Sat., 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Sun., 2 p.m. - 9 p.m.
Important note: There is enough ambiance and complexity of taste to make burger night feel like date night. A reasonable $5 corkage fee means dinner out doesn't have to be fiscally irresponsible.
As I’ve encountered on more than one occasion, the training and technical accomplishment of a fine dining chef or the savvy and business acumen of a restaurateur doesn’t mean that she or he will make anything resembling a burger that I’ll crave. Perhaps that’s not so surprising, as the burger is an eating experience tied to our personal histories. During our childhoods, burgers conveniently and comfortably fulfilled the basic necessity of eating, but more than that they were the locus of our youthful awakening to the joys of food. They taught us just how much want we can tease out of our needs. They represent those moments in our childhood that played out as simple desire and grew into adult memories of youthful pleasure and the comfort of food.
So when I heard a Serious Eats reader decided to open a burger restaurant I got excited. Perhaps a passionate eater’s take on the burger is just what it needs. Someone who will obsess over the balance and complexity of this simple sandwich in a manner that manages to stay faithful to the form.
After my first trip to Umami Burger on La Brea Boulevard, I was so pleased with their tasty and complex burger that I determined to get a look at what goes on behind the scenes. Thankfully, Umami’s owner, Adam Fleischman, cheerfully agreed to show me the Umami process.
Umami Burger sits at the corner of a nondescript, almost-strip-mall space on La Brea Boulevard just a little south of Wilshire. This little piece of La Brea is one of those stretches in Los Angeles that you can feel telling itself, “I think I can.” A cool bar here and a mom and pop coffee shop there make for a neighborhood in becoming.
Pulling into the modest parking lot (something to keep in mind when planning your visit), Umami looks like a little oasis of burger serenity. The Japanese origin of the word is reflected in the Asian-inspired interior. As it happens, Umami took over the space from the ill-fated Korean fusion restaurant Bap-Jip that was trying to hawk a taco. I mean, who would eat a Korean taco, right? Well Bap-Jip’s lack of timing was Umami’s good fortune. The space has received just a minor makeover, but I suspect the memory of its origins will quickly fade.
Adam had agreed to let me watch a burger go from raw ingredients to plate and then, most importantly, to my belly. Before I head into the kitchen we sit down to chat about all this burgerness came to be.
The Origins of Umami Burger
Adam grew up in Maryland outside of Washington DC and decided to pursue a career in film before finding his way to the food business. His first passion was for wine and that led to a pair of wine bars in Culver City: Bottle Rock and Vinoteque. While he still maintains an abiding interest in the grape, he decided that he wanted to make the burger his focus (and who can blame him). Before coming up with his current menu, he went through the test kitchen process in his home. That’s when he hit upon the idea of focusing on umami as an organizing principle.
Salty, sweet, sour, bitter—these four are the flavors we grew up playing with in science class, but umami is not basic to most people’s academic understanding of taste. The description of what has been dubbed "the fifth taste" is not so easy. Savory? Meaty? Yes and yes. It has been localized to the reception of glutamate, hence the MSG-dousing so many restaurants employ. The thing is, that road to umami is not only low, it’s also (with some attention to detail) unnecessary.
Adam wanted to recreate that craving he gets for his two favorite burgers: the In-N-Out Double Double, and The Father’s Office burger. He began researching all of the foods that have high umami ratings and decided to see what would happen if he started combining them. What he came up with is both delicious and certainly no facsimile of either of his inspirations.
While we finish up our chat, Umami Burger’s dining room turns into a food writing convention. Los Angeles’s king of the food scribes, Jonathan Gold, walks in with some folks from the Los Angeles Times. Then a writer for Saveur shows up to talk recipes. I feel at the center of the excitement of this food moment and yet out of place. Luckily, I have a backstage pass today. I do what I always did as a boy when my father’s restaurant got busy: I head for the kitchen.
Behind the Scenes
Adam shows me the meat grinding process. I’m not allowed to know everything, but I do know that flap meat plays a role. His grind is coarse and he hand packs the meat loosely in a form. From there it gets a hearty helping of salt and pepper and then finds a home on an equally seasoned cast iron griddle. While I think it’s fair to say that the burger is gourmet, the process falls somewhere between chef and fast food. It lacks flourish, but is executed meticulously.
All of the condiments are made in house, but the one I am most intrigued by is the Umami processed cheese used on the So Cal Burger (a take on In-N-Out). Gruyere (in this case, Comté) is shredded and mixed with Sherry and some heat. Then it gets a little hit of sodium citrate. The mixture is poured into a sheet pan to stabilize and voilà—homemade American cheese. You’ll also find homemade ketchup, relish, chili, and host of others. To be honest, while they are all good, they don't compromise my love the cloying sweetness of a commercial ketchup.
Complex Flavors Make for an Original Burger
When I dig into the Umami burger the force of all of the tastes hit me. The meat is well-seasoned and beautifully cooked and packed. The Parmesan is baked into a tuile and the tomato gets a roasting (upping the umami rating apparently). The onions are caramelized, but Umami resists the browning impulse that foils so many grilled onions. The flavors come together as something entirely "burger" and yet something else. There is a complexity to the flavor that makes this burger eat like an original dish. The commercial, mass produced burger legacy of Post-WWII America is absent, yet it’s still definitively a burger (unlike one if its inspirations, as Nick pointed out).
One of the big reasons Umami maintains a hold on the burgerness of its creation lies in its bun. It’s attractive, but not the perfect round like those for-looks-only brioche buns. This one is a Portuguese-style roll so it has a nontraditional sweetness, but the texture is soft, sturdy and satisfying. In fact, the texture is a key component as it’s what keeps the burger together. I am able to use my hands all the way through despite the loosely packed meat and multiple condiments.
Speaking of the meat, it comes from Rocker Brothers Meat & Provision in Inglewood. Adam estimates the fat content at 24 percent, but this isn’t the sole explanation for the meat's tastiness. The mixture makes for a bigger flavor and, as we’ve discussed before, seasoning and proper cooking (high heat) make all the difference.
After trying three of the burgers on the menu, the signature Umami Burger is my favorite. The So Cal is good, but didn’t come together as well for me. The Port & Stilton is delicious, but something I’d order with a bottle of wine at dinner. That reminds me—there is a modest $5 corkage fee (and no booze) at Umami, so burger night can feel like a night out without the financial stress. An affordable fancy-pants burger in this minimalist setting seems a treat in times like these.
All in all, Umami Burger is an exciting restaurant in becoming. The burgers are great, but there is still a sense that the machine aspect of a restaurant’s smooth operation has yet to set in. Also, Adam’s eyes light up when I ask him if he’s going to expand the menu. He has numerous ideas including a Maryland crab cake (yes, please). I expect Umami to grow up fast.
When I ask Adam what he is trying to do at Umami his answer comes fast, furious, and audacious: "We’re trying to improve upon nature. That’s what a burger is doing. It’s taking the good things about nature and fitting them in your hand." While Umami’s iteration is certainly a reworking of the tastes of a traditional burger, Adam is insistent that he remain loyal to the form. "We’re trying to focus on what appeals about burgers in the first place. We’re trying to make something you crave." He sounds like someone who is both passionate and committed to food. He sounds like an eater who is, well, serious. No wonder I like his burger.
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46 Comments:
The husband and I are grabbing our keys now. Away we go!
mangabanga at 4:40PM on 03/11/09
That cheese with sherry and sodium citrate trick is one that Heston Blumenthal used when he was creating his (not incredible) burger. It's a neat idea - the best part of his recipe (when you can get the cheese to set up properly, that is)
J. Kenji Lopez-Alt at 4:57PM on 03/11/09
Great pix, Damon!
zindh at 5:03PM on 03/11/09
I ate at umami this past weekend. Service was a little off, but thats ok because the burger totally made up for it.
My friend and I split an umami burger and a truffle burger. Both were fantastic. I'm actually glad we split each, because the truffle burger was so rich that I don't think I would want to eat a whole one. I honestly don't know which burger I like better.
While the meat was very good and nicely cooked, the star here is the bun. Buns are a huge deal to a burger, and often overlooked. They have the bun nailed here at Umami. The texture is just perfect!
My only gripe is that they have no iced tea. All my life I have had an iced tea with my burgers. I don't drink soda (which they have an abundance of), so I was SOL and left with just water. Next time I'll bring a bottle of wine.
Also, skip desert. Their little cake things aren't really worth it. I wish I had had another burger instead!
All and all, I think Damon's review is pretty spot on, and I'd recommend anyone to try Umami Burger.
smhess at 5:13PM on 03/11/09
Mm... I'm gonna be up in L.A. this weekend. I'm definitely dropping in.
Tally at 5:20PM on 03/11/09
I would and have eaten a Korean taco.
mangiatoilgatto at 5:21PM on 03/11/09
Well, I am definitely craving this burger. Thanks for the review, Damon.
SAKSc at 7:27PM on 03/11/09
Husband and I split 3 burgers: The Umami, the Port and Stilton, and the Triple Pork.
The Umami was amazing, the crunch of the Parm was perfection and the juicy, sweet mushroom balanced with the meat perfectly. I noticed the pool of bright red juice forming on my plate, just as I like it. Burgers should bleed red, it's American.
The P&S was rich and soft. Just a tiny smear of Stilton transformed the whole thing... even husband, who hates blue cheese, inhaled his half. Served with the sweet potato chips, lightly dusted with a hint of cinnamon and beautifully airy and crisp.
The Triple Pork was spicy and so tasty. If I was craving a burger, I wouldn't go for it over the Umami, but on it's own as something unique and very tasty, it is a winner.
YOU MUST TRY THE CRU ICED COFFEE. I only have coffee with my burgers when Hubs and I hit Pie N' Burger for Sunday breakfast, and I was sort of trying to create that effect here. It's amazing. Their blend is so intense and has a creamy, sweetness that will blow your mind. It's brilliant and apparently Top Secret which always makes it taste even better.
And the little Cake Monkey thingys were not too sweet and really light, a great way to end the meal.
I'm coming back once a week. And bringing everyone I love. Thanks, Damon!
mangabanga at 8:02PM on 03/11/09
OMG. I am now salivating at my desk.
Another glorious review, Damon. Keep on keepin' on.
Mmmburger at 9:14PM on 03/11/09
I am convinced you crave the burger you grew up with. I spent my high school years in Oklahoma City where Johnnny's featured the "Theta Burger." Never, before or since, have I had a better hamburger. I have also been unable to recreate it with thousands of tries at home. Johnny's is still doing well and thriving and I am determined to return for the Theta and the best onion rings on the planet.
Leper at 9:42PM on 03/11/09
That is one beautifully crafted burger. Bravo.
chanterelle at 12:22AM on 03/12/09
i also LOVED unami. but 1 gripe. i didnt love the fries. thought they were too thick and oily tasting.
but will go back for the burgers again and again!
smtanner82 at 1:00AM on 03/12/09
Looks great! Makes me want to make a drive up to LA now. yum yum
avocadoboba at 3:49AM on 03/12/09
Wow the process behind that burger is insane and yet it seems all so necessary together. It's official though...today is a burger day for dinner.
FrostyGhost at 1:58PM on 03/12/09
burger was great, service was pretty lackluster. also, they added a 5 dollar corckage fee, fyi.
geoffreybean at 2:07PM on 03/12/09
I live less than a mile away from Umami Burger and have been there three times. It's a great addition to the neighborhood and already a must-visit spot for any LA burger fan.
The Triple Pork (house-ground pork + bacon + chorizo) is so good I have to resist the temptation to order it every time, lest I never get the chance to sample the whole menu. Of the other burgers I've tried, the SoCal is very good - definitely reminiscent of an upscale In-n-Out - while the turkey is merely so-so.
My one big knock on the place is the fries. They're "triple cooked," which I'm sure takes a lot of time and effort. Unfortunately, what it doesn't do is deliver any potato taste. Jonathan Gold in LA Weekly called them "mealy" in an otherwise positive write-up. My strategy is to get the burgers to go and hit one La Brea's fast food joints on the way home for fries.
Adam, if you're reading this (and I hope you are), please please please toss out your fry recipe and find a new one. Otherwise, keep up the good work!
shred at 7:21PM on 03/12/09
Damn. I wish i had known about this when I was in LA last week! (Ended up trying The Counter instead.)
Zach Brooks at 9:15PM on 03/12/09
Hey Damon, have you had the Niman Ranch burger from Rustic Canyon?
More fancy than your average SoCal burger place, but i hear it's good:
http://www.rusticcanyonwinebar.com/
BurgerSeeker at 9:45PM on 03/12/09
@mangabanga - you are all action! I love it. Glad you had a similarly enjoyable experience. Don't imagine oyster stew will hit the menu, but certainly plenty of deliciousness to go around.
@GoodEaterKenji - thanks for the info. The m.g can leave me cold sometimes, but I dug this little process.
@smhess - sounds like you had a similar take on the place. I'm with you...always would rather another burger than a dessert that is just meh.
@Tally - go for it! Tell Adam Serious Eats sent you.
@Leper - we agree. I crave so many tastes from my childhood. Often I wonder if my adult palette isn't tricked by all those memory associations.
@FrostyGhost - I always support burger dinner (and lunch and even breakfast if there are leftovers to be had). Hope you like Umami.
@Zach Brooks - Sorry about The Counter. It's just ok to me.
@BurgerSeeker - That place is a bit fancy pants, but I expect to review it here eventually.
Thanks for all the comments!
Damon Gambuto at 10:18PM on 03/12/09
I am afraid I died and went to heaven after consuming (1) Umami burger with no condiments at 6:54PM 03/12/09 after reading Damon's enticing blogpost.
The perfect food; beautifully cooked. Perfect meat, perfect bun.
I also had the "Market Salad" with a yummy dressing.
Service was on point and intuitive.
Perhaps we can start a petition to encourage Umami to make "Arnold Palmers".
brittbacon at 12:02AM on 03/13/09
Hi y'all, Adam here. Thx for all the great comments.
Re: the fries-- we are always tinkering and I have a new take on them to start next week -- though I am sure any tinkering will generate tons of complaints also.
ad-
zindh at 1:27AM on 03/13/09
I went there last night with three friends and we all agreed it was incredible. I had the SoCal burger and was completely floored from the first bite. It was really really really really good. From the first bite to the last morsel on my plate. I am not being hyperbolic. The burger is better than that Father's Office burger which is currently the populist king of gourmet burgers in Los Angeles. One friend got the SoCal and agreed, and the other got the 3xPork and insisted I try some, but I was too full.
That being said, I agree with the general feeling about the fries. They taste good, but are more steak fry-ish than burger place fries. It just goes against what I was expecting. Furthermore, while the homemade ketchup provides a good rich tomatoey flavor, I was expecting ketchup and not something as natural. However, the onion rings are nice and light and tasty (which I think are a new addition to the menu, which I took with me to boast).
Overall, considering they've been open for a month, the truly biggest grip I have is their parking lot is too small! I was still thinking about the meal up until I went to sleep and I cannot offer enough praise. Also, above, when I say what I was "expecting," I was not expecting the burger to be so good, but I was very pleasantly surprised. With the fries and ketchup, it was different and made me think about how it was different, rather than the burger which made me think about how AWESOME it was.
In a town where there are so many eating establishments that strive for mediocrity, it is always refreshing when a place attempts to be great and achieves it. I want to bath in umami (if that's possible).
Nebagakid at 9:57AM on 03/13/09
I live in the wrong part of the US. *grumble*
Beans at 11:32AM on 03/13/09
Ok, i gotta try this very very soon. I'm hearing good things about the onion rings too. Can't decide whether to go w/ the house burger or the Stilton. And how cool that the owner is on SE! Oh and someone please explain the kogi joke to themangiatoilgatto :)
FamishedFem at 1:13PM on 03/13/09
Korean tacos are sweeping LA, but the place that served them prior to Umami went under quick.
zindh at 3:12PM on 03/13/09
So where does the umami come into play?
It's like calling your restaurant "Delicious Burger."
Lorenzo at 5:12PM on 03/13/09
*sighs*
zindh at 1:06PM on 03/14/09
@Lorenzo,
Umami is imamu backwards. Imamu is Swahili for "spiritual leader". That should clear it up for ya.
mangabanga at 3:22PM on 03/15/09
Please learn how to be a food writer.
"The So Cal is good, but didn’t come together as well for me."
What the h does THAT mean?
pthom at 5:48PM on 03/15/09
@pthom: The So Cal burger was good, but not as good as the Umami burger..?
Robyn Lee at 11:01AM on 03/16/09
@pthom: Agreed. And what does "in becoming" mean? I'm sure that a ton of people on SE read the LA Times and NY Times, and so expect a really well written article or blog entry. Also, IMHO, LA Weekly totally sucks - always has, always will.
serious1 at 11:03AM on 03/16/09
I wish I wasn't on the east coast, sounds like a great place.
redfish at 12:15PM on 03/16/09
I ended up coming in on Sunday, just before they ran out of hamburger meat (oh no!) Me and the partner ordered a blue cheese burger and their house specialty Umami Burger, with the intentions of sharing. He liked his so much, he refused to share though, which is a pretty high recommendation.
The bun was absolutely incredible, just a little sweet, soft, but with enough heft that it absorbed the juices without falling apart. And that was important, because that was the juiciest hamburger I'd ever had! A crispy, caramelized outside had a wonderful, medium well interior that just leaked meaty, perfectly seasoned juiciness. I thought I cooked good burgers at home, but now I have to go back to the drawing board: this place entirely redefined what a good hamburger is to me.
Really wanted a chocolate malt afterwards. :-) That would be just divine.
Tally at 1:17PM on 03/16/09
Reporting back...I went on saturday night and it was so SO so incredible. My two friends really enjoyed it too - so buttery and rich, yet we all agreed that we could have had another. I got the Port/Stilton and they each had the Umami. I'll go back very soon. It was packed, but service was great. Wish we would have brought some wine like most of the other patrons. Oh, and I luv Damon's writing - back off ya'll :)
FamishedFem at 2:02PM on 03/16/09
@pthom: Yeah, that was so incredibly confusing. "Words" are so hard to make out sometimes.
@serious1: People who draw analogies from "Dharma and Greg" episodes (yeah, I searched your commenting past, punk) really have no business commenting on the literary prowess of others.
Nice post, Damon.
ketchupgrrrl at 5:34PM on 03/16/09
this is looks great! thanks for reporting. i gotta check it out. btw...i dunno about the place that was there before but i love korean tacos. have you tried a galbi taco? dont knock it til you try it.
foodisluv at 1:32PM on 03/17/09
I still say it's a regrettably named restaurant with a product that, while it may be very tasty, likely has little more umami than any other burger. It's like calling your restaurant "Glutamate Receptor-Pleasing Burger," "Delicious Burger," "Savory Burger," etc. The word "umami" is no more unique to their restaurant and burger than "sweet," "salty," "sour" or "bitter."
Lorenzo at 1:46PM on 03/17/09
Damon, are we allowed to tell other posters to shut up?
mangabanga at 7:08PM on 03/17/09
Just arrived in LA for the first time in 3 years, and the first place I go? Umami Burger, just as any devoted Gambuto reader might. It was really superb.
maxcriden at 9:33PM on 03/17/09
@mangabanga - I encourage a vibrant back and forth in the comments. ;)
@maxcriden - Glad you enjoyed your burger and I hope to live up to the devotion in the future. Feel free to drop me a line if you want some other LA recommendations.
Damon Gambuto at 12:08AM on 03/18/09
Here are my totally amateurish pics from today's jaunt to Umami:
Umami Burger and Fries:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maxcriden/3363682793/
Umami Burger, sans top bun:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maxcriden/3363683063/
Mexican Coke and Abita Root Beer (both with real sugar, I think--yum!):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maxcriden/3364503980/
Market Salad with Manchego (by request), Mandarin Oranges (that or baby tangerines, I don't recall which), and Chili-Chipotle Dressing:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/maxcriden/3363683091
maxcriden at 12:59AM on 03/18/09
@Damon - where might I hit you up for such recommendations? I see no email link on the site. Thanks!
maxcriden at 1:07AM on 03/18/09
Great review but I disagree about the So Cal burger. My wife had the Umami and I thought my So Cal burger was way better after tasting hers. She liked mine better too. Killer onion rings, but not a fan of the house ketchup with anchovies. I think I'll sneak in some good old Heinz ketchup on my next visit!
mrmagoo at 3:59PM on 03/19/09
I went last week, and whiule I was a skeptic beforehand, I'm now a believer. I think this is on the very short list for best burger in L.A (with the Kobe at Lucky Devil's being my other current favorite).
A couple of gripes:
1) As at Lucky Devil's (and Father's Office), the "pre-packaged" burgers get in the way. I frankly didn't want either the "Umami" burger OR the "SoCal" burger - but instead just a burger, medium rare, with cheese so as to be able to judge the burger on the taste of the base components, and not accessories. I felt compelled to order the SoCal burger, but next time I will request the butter lettuce, sauce, etc. to be left off. I don;t think they brought much to the table.
2) The fries, the fries, the fries. Maxcriden, your pictures indicate that at least for a little while they ventures away from the ultra-thick fries. I wish they had continued that experiment. I don't 4 or 5 "fries" that taste more like mashed potatoes with a crispy covering. This place really needs some version of traditional fries. Why is it such a problem? Not everything on the menu needs to be groundbreaking.
3) No wine and beer/corkage. I'm sorry, but the 5 dollar corkage needs to go if they're not going to have wine or beer available. If you're bringing a $40 bottle of wine to a steakhouse, which already has its own wine list, $5 corkage would seem like an excellent value, but this is a burger joint, and all I want is a glass or two of beer or wine. If I need to go across the streeet to buy a beer, I shouldn't have to pay an additional $5 to drink it. That's just ridiculous.
millions at 6:59PM on 04/27/09
Just perfect---the meat to bun ratio is ideal to the last bite. I had the Manly Burger, and the porkbelly was a perfect addition. The ketchup was heavy on the anise, but the burger didn't need it. This is my favorite burger next to the one at Olives in Las Vegas at the Bellagio and the one at the Left Bank at the On The Ave hotel in NYC's Upper West Side. Umami is my new "go to" burger in LA.
PeteNeumann at 4:46PM on 08/23/09
I have to give 2 thumbs up to Umami burger. We tried it earlier this month when visiting for the BCS championship. All of our friends met at LAX and thought I was crazy for leading them to Umami late Wednesday night. Everyone agreed these were some of the best burgers we had in awhile. We ordered every burger on the menu so everyone got to taste different ones. We also enjoyed all of the desserts.
The owners and waiters were also really nice about giving us suggestions for other places to eat and party during our visit.
ezrider001 at 4:41PM on 01/24/10