The day after I ate a burger at Royal Tavern, I ate a cheeseburger at Belgian beer emporium Monk's Cafe per a friend's suggestion. Out of their seven toppings combinations, I went for the Antwerp topped with sottocenere truffle cheese and shitake mushroom. How did it fare? Autopsy shot and more after the jump.
I ordered medium rare, and that's what I got. The eight-ounce patty was great—juicy, flavorful, and seasoned to a satisfying degree, which was quite a difference from the somewhat bland burger I had at Royal Tavern. However, the bun. THE BUN. This burger would've been awesome on a soft, squishy bun, but instead they used a dense, fairly dry ciabatta roll. It was fine for soaking up the meat juices, but that only applied to the bottom bun. I initially dealt with the unsatisfactory bun by removing the top and eating the burger open-faced, but then I realized, "No, this whole bun is fail," and ate the meat alone. Much better! But then my burger-eating experienced turned into a beef patty-eating experience, more appropriate for a site called A Beef Patty Today.
Ciabatta buns don't necessarily have to be bad (although I always prefer the pillowy soft variety), but this one was just not right. The patty deserved something better. If you do happen to like this bun, tell me why.
I though the thin, crispy fries were fine—not memorably great or bad.
Monk's Cafe
264 South 16th Street, Philadelphia PA 19102 (b/n Spruce and Latimer; map)
215-545-7005 monkscafe.com
I agree that the bun kills the burger at Monk's. The bun fail is an example of trying to hard to source the best local ingredients really. They use Le Bus bakery rolls, a local high quality bakery, but inappropriate for most burger applications. They would be better off just using some Martin's potato rolls. You made no mention of the fries though which is a shame, because they truly are some of the best fries in the city. They even get their potatoes from Belgium to make the most authentic frites possible.
Using inappropriate buns is a problem that falls on a lot of Philly's better burgers though. The archetypal Philly burger right now is definitely of the gourmet-locavore-thick-patty variety. It sort of fits hand-in-glove with the huge craft brewing culture that the city has built up over the last ten years or so. Whereas in New York while there's a variety of styles, the Shackesque fast food style (which I prefer) feels like it's ascendant.
All that said, I still think Standard Tap makes the best burger in the city...and they even use Le Bus rolls I believe! Although I don't think ciabatta.
I've never had a really good burger at Monk's or the Standard Tap. Next time you're in town, try the Windsor burger at Pub and Kitchen. It's the only one in town that compares to the Good Dog burger.
When I'm at Monk's, I hardly even think about eating. I am in such heaven at the bevy of delicious brews that I rarely think about food other than the Frites.
Maybe that's why I never drive home after a night at Monks?
Next time, I'll try the burger.
@ EazyB - I have had more burger experiences ruined by a horrible bun than by horrible meat. A Martin's would work wonders.
@ Buckethead - Thanks for the suggestions, and while your at it, do you have anymore that might fall below the radar? Philly is my backyard and I go often.
Now, all I need is some suggestions for my trips to Boston, Birmingham/Montgomery & Denver/Westminster.
I've never been tempted for a burger at Monks, since the mussels are so killer. I agree with Buckethead. Good Dog makes a great burger. And their sweet potato fries a delicious. Oh, how I miss Philly!
Good review! Per my previous post, I am of the opinion that Monk's has the best burger that I have had in Philadelphia. Granted, I am a suburbanite and only get down to the city every few weeks, so my sample size is somewhat limited.
That being said, I would agree that the bun is the worst part of a good burger, but I guess I am in the minority here who happens to like a chewy, substantial bun, as long as a proper burger-to-bun ratio is maintained. I will admit that there is a little too much bun here.
I should expand my burger forays into the city to include more of the places that other serious eaters have mentioned, but sometimes when you go into the city and pay $20 for parking, you really just want a great Belgian beer or two, a bucket of mussels, some frites and a tasty burger. Bun be dammed!
@EazyB: I thought the fries were good, but not memorable. Maybe I got a subpar batch that didn't reach its most heavenly potato potential. ;_; I added a photo to my entry though just to get it in there. Standard Tap will be next on my list.
@Buckethead: Thanks for the rec!
@cxg231: If you can overlook the bun then the burger is tasty! ;) I don't mind chewy and substantial in general, as long as that doesn't include "dry." The bun was on the dry side. Boo.
While I was scrolling down reading the article at one point I caught a glimpse at the upper portion of the bun and I thought to myself "That bun is not right at all" and "Robyn is gonna wish for that burger without a bun". Funny how you can think ahead of what you are going to read.
why in the world would they try so hard to source local ingredients at the expense of giving the burger proper bunnage, then import potatoes from bfe belgium. why??
The answer is that it's not really a burger focused place....its more mussels and frites. They couldn't find the right potatoes to make traditional frites so the went to the source. Since they're not focused on burgers they just fell back on buying rolls, even the wrong ones, from a high quality local bakery.
Wow... I love the bun at monks, I enjoy the fact that it holds together and has a good texture to sink your teeth into.
On a side note - I just had a burger at Prohibition tap room (13th near spring garden) that almost, ALMOST rivaled my last Monk's burger.
I've never had a good experience at Monk's at all. The food is mediocre and the service is heinous. Grace Tavern, Good Dog and Pub and Kitchen have the best burgers around.
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14 Comments:
I agree that the bun kills the burger at Monk's. The bun fail is an example of trying to hard to source the best local ingredients really. They use Le Bus bakery rolls, a local high quality bakery, but inappropriate for most burger applications. They would be better off just using some Martin's potato rolls. You made no mention of the fries though which is a shame, because they truly are some of the best fries in the city. They even get their potatoes from Belgium to make the most authentic frites possible.
Using inappropriate buns is a problem that falls on a lot of Philly's better burgers though. The archetypal Philly burger right now is definitely of the gourmet-locavore-thick-patty variety. It sort of fits hand-in-glove with the huge craft brewing culture that the city has built up over the last ten years or so. Whereas in New York while there's a variety of styles, the Shackesque fast food style (which I prefer) feels like it's ascendant.
All that said, I still think Standard Tap makes the best burger in the city...and they even use Le Bus rolls I believe! Although I don't think ciabatta.
EazyB at 10:37AM on 03/12/09
I've never had a really good burger at Monk's or the Standard Tap. Next time you're in town, try the Windsor burger at Pub and Kitchen. It's the only one in town that compares to the Good Dog burger.
Buckethead at 10:45AM on 03/12/09
When I'm at Monk's, I hardly even think about eating. I am in such heaven at the bevy of delicious brews that I rarely think about food other than the Frites.
Maybe that's why I never drive home after a night at Monks?
Next time, I'll try the burger.
@ EazyB - I have had more burger experiences ruined by a horrible bun than by horrible meat. A Martin's would work wonders.
@ Buckethead - Thanks for the suggestions, and while your at it, do you have anymore that might fall below the radar? Philly is my backyard and I go often.
Now, all I need is some suggestions for my trips to Boston, Birmingham/Montgomery & Denver/Westminster.
BigWoollyMammoth at 11:15AM on 03/12/09
I've never been tempted for a burger at Monks, since the mussels are so killer. I agree with Buckethead. Good Dog makes a great burger. And their sweet potato fries a delicious. Oh, how I miss Philly!
mednerd at 11:17AM on 03/12/09
Good review! Per my previous post, I am of the opinion that Monk's has the best burger that I have had in Philadelphia. Granted, I am a suburbanite and only get down to the city every few weeks, so my sample size is somewhat limited.
That being said, I would agree that the bun is the worst part of a good burger, but I guess I am in the minority here who happens to like a chewy, substantial bun, as long as a proper burger-to-bun ratio is maintained. I will admit that there is a little too much bun here.
I should expand my burger forays into the city to include more of the places that other serious eaters have mentioned, but sometimes when you go into the city and pay $20 for parking, you really just want a great Belgian beer or two, a bucket of mussels, some frites and a tasty burger. Bun be dammed!
cxg231 at 11:40AM on 03/12/09
@EazyB: I thought the fries were good, but not memorable. Maybe I got a subpar batch that didn't reach its most heavenly potato potential. ;_; I added a photo to my entry though just to get it in there. Standard Tap will be next on my list.
@Buckethead: Thanks for the rec!
@cxg231: If you can overlook the bun then the burger is tasty! ;) I don't mind chewy and substantial in general, as long as that doesn't include "dry." The bun was on the dry side. Boo.
Robyn Lee at 1:06PM on 03/12/09
While I was scrolling down reading the article at one point I caught a glimpse at the upper portion of the bun and I thought to myself "That bun is not right at all" and "Robyn is gonna wish for that burger without a bun". Funny how you can think ahead of what you are going to read.
FrostyGhost at 1:48PM on 03/12/09
The fries are ok, but the sauce they serve with it is awesome!!! I've never had a burger there since the mussels are so delicious.
gingercookiewithlime at 8:39PM on 03/12/09
why in the world would they try so hard to source local ingredients at the expense of giving the burger proper bunnage, then import potatoes from bfe belgium. why??
awkwardcabbage at 5:34AM on 03/13/09
The answer is that it's not really a burger focused place....its more mussels and frites. They couldn't find the right potatoes to make traditional frites so the went to the source. Since they're not focused on burgers they just fell back on buying rolls, even the wrong ones, from a high quality local bakery.
EazyB at 10:24AM on 03/13/09
Wow... I love the bun at monks, I enjoy the fact that it holds together and has a good texture to sink your teeth into.
On a side note - I just had a burger at Prohibition tap room (13th near spring garden) that almost, ALMOST rivaled my last Monk's burger.
radioactivecat at 3:42PM on 03/13/09
Over-breaded sandwiches, burgers, etc are always such a dirty shame.
chanterelle at 10:03PM on 03/16/09
I've never had a good experience at Monk's at all. The food is mediocre and the service is heinous. Grace Tavern, Good Dog and Pub and Kitchen have the best burgers around.
astock at 9:41PM on 03/17/09
Next time try a awesome burger & fries at Grey Lodge Pub on Frankfort ave.
It is a tasty burger. MMMMMMM
toyman70 at 7:52AM on 03/18/09