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Frank Bruni on Corner Bistro and Shake Shack

20090213-ss-cornerbistro.jpg

Left, Shake Shack; right, Corner Bistro

New York Times food critic Frank Bruni eats at New York City burger favorites Corner Bistro and the Upper West Side Shake Shack in the same day, with Shake Shack being the home of the better burger. The Corner Bistro's nine-ounce patty had "dull flavor, and was flabby through and through, with no crispness whatsoever on the edges," while the Shake Shack burger's thinner patties "weren’t dried-out or tough in the least, and they were loaded with beefy, fatty flavor."

Related
Shake Shack: A New York Spin on the West Coast–Style Burger
Review: Corner Bistro

16 Comments:

Not surprised he dug Shake Shack more. At least now I don't feel so bad for not having a Corner Bistro burger yet... can't be missing too much!

Can we please ignore Frank Bruni? Corner Bistro is amazing.

I agree completely with Bruni on this one. I've never understood the acclaim heaped on the Corner Bistro. Just an average burger, too me.

The problem with Corner Bistro is exactly what Bruni mentioned, there is always a chance you get that precooked, crappy burger. I've gotten it a number of times and have since refused to go back.

While its true that you can get an 'old' dull tasting bistro burger, I rarely do as I prefer my bistro burger rare. I believe that to meet my demands for blood they must cook my burger from the start. So in a way I suppose everyone is right, the bistro burger is both dull and unremarkable and bold and perfect, depending on how brave you are.

@alastor - very interesting insight. I always order my burgers rare, so maybe that's why I have always loved my CB burgers. However, having been there many times, I have never ever seen the hotel pan full of pre cooked burgers, so I doubt the veracity of this claim to begin with.

@simon, whether you believe it or not, its true. I've seen and eaten the precooked burgers in the kitchen that just get a quick reheat under the broiler

Sorry, ESNY. Simon didn't see it so it can't be true. Remember: Simon Says, and we all have to obey.

I have seen them, as you walk to the end of the bar just look into the "kitchen".

BTW McSorelys on tap both regular and dark for $2.50 I think? That alone is worth the trip.

Agree... The McSorleys alone is worth it....

I get my burger rare and went there twice just to make sure this wasn't a fluke - a dull, average burger. Disappointed both times. It wasn't bad, just extraordinarily ordinary. Less flavor than I get if I were to broil or grill my own at home with regular ground meat from the supermarket. Really.

@drmoze: please get over yourself. All I said was I have never seen it myself. Stop being such a prick.

@alastor: I like the hoegaarden, a lot.

@Big B: That's my biggest gripe. I thought the meat was well cooked (again, I seem to have been lucky enough to get a freshly cooked burger each time, go figure,) but they use crappy ingredients and it tastes like it.

(Er, I should clarify: I don't think the burger tastes crappy, but it is obviously made with "crappy" ingredients. If they used better stuff, I think the it would be a really fantastic burger.)

I want to make clear that I'm not arguing that Bistro has the 'best' burger. I just love the experience when I go there. The cozy back room, the large cheap eats, and of course the alcohol. I've had plenty of tasty burgers that came with lousy dining experiences. If all I wanted was a delicious burger I'd stay home and give myself a meat facial.

Anyway its hard to give that best burger answer. If I was tortured in a guillotine I'd have to say I really loved Resto's burger though haven't had it in a while [ I've got to head to Irving Mill soon ].

I feel vindicated after having argued with George Motz on this post about how bad the Corner Bistro burger was. Honestly one of the driest, stalest, blandest burgers I've ever had, at least the first time I went. I've since gone back when completely inebriated and had what I vaguely remember as a better burger, but still - it ain't no Shake Shack.

Speaking of the Shack, has anyone else noticed that the UWS location doesn't get it quite right? The patty always seems slightly underseasoned and the crust not quite as crusty as it is downtown...

@Kenji How can we compare Shake Shack with Bistro? Aren't we talking about pub vs. cali style? (I hope I dont get carpet-bombed after this)

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