In his Irving Mill burger the beef cheek and fatback are back, but what they’re rounding out is flap steak from Niman Ranch that’s been aged for five weeks. It’s seven ounces of meat, while Resto’s was six.
And it’s another winner — juicier than its Resto forebear, and tucked wisely into a fluffy potato roll that’s just substantial enough not to disintegrate as the burger’s juices seep into it but not so heavy and intrusive that it muffles the burger’s thunder
As you can see from the photo above, the burger has a very course grind. Skeen told Bruni that he grinds the burger differently from what he did at Resto: "The burger has a better texture, almost like a hand-chopped burger."
Bruni doesn't say much about the rest of the menu, apparently not as into praising the lard as Serious Eats' Ed Levine, but they can both agree that the burger is delicious.
Ok, that photo . . . Did he order the burger raw in the middle? Is it me or are the "high end" burgers being shown here are all raw in the middle? Who wants a cool raw center in a burger? The fat is still locked up. These chef's need to get in touch with the basics and take a look inside the burger once in awhile. Sorry for the rant but that burger looks like burgers I was making when I first started cooking, and mine never made it on the food page of the NY Times either ;-)
@jkdrummer: This isn't the burger Bruni ate, but the one Ed and I ate for his review. I'd guess it's medium rare—that's always how I order my burgers (not that they always come out that way). I wouldn't say it's a "high end" burger thing.
That burger looks medium to me. I ate at the Irving Mill on Tuesday night and ordered the burger rare, which it indeed was. I had the opposite reaction to Bruni - loved the gnocchi was not impressed with the burger, especially for the asking price.
Thanks for commenting! Your comment has been accepted and will appear in a moment.
Add a comment:
Previewing your comment:
HTML Hints
Some HTML is OK: <a href="URL">link</a>, <strong>strong</strong>, <em>em</em>
Comment Guidelines
Post whatever you want, just keep it pleasant. We reserve the right to delete off-topic or inflammatory comments. Learn more at our Comment Policy page.
Print
3 Comments:
Ok, that photo . . . Did he order the burger raw in the middle? Is it me or are the "high end" burgers being shown here are all raw in the middle? Who wants a cool raw center in a burger? The fat is still locked up. These chef's need to get in touch with the basics and take a look inside the burger once in awhile. Sorry for the rant but that burger looks like burgers I was making when I first started cooking, and mine never made it on the food page of the NY Times either ;-)
jkdrummer at 11:09AM on 11/07/08
@jkdrummer: This isn't the burger Bruni ate, but the one Ed and I ate for his review. I'd guess it's medium rare—that's always how I order my burgers (not that they always come out that way). I wouldn't say it's a "high end" burger thing.
roboppy at 11:21AM on 11/07/08
That burger looks medium to me. I ate at the Irving Mill on Tuesday night and ordered the burger rare, which it indeed was. I had the opposite reaction to Bruni - loved the gnocchi was not impressed with the burger, especially for the asking price.
Nick Solares at 4:18PM on 11/07/08