The beefy center of Irving Mill's burger hypnotizes you.

New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni praises the burger at Irving Mill made by chef Ryan Skeen, formerly of Resto:

In his Irving Mill burger the beef cheek and fatback are back, but what they’re rounding out is flap steak from Niman Ranch that’s been aged for five weeks. It’s seven ounces of meat, while Resto’s was six.

And it’s another winner — juicier than its Resto forebear, and tucked wisely into a fluffy potato roll that’s just substantial enough not to disintegrate as the burger’s juices seep into it but not so heavy and intrusive that it muffles the burger’s thunder

As you can see from the photo above, the burger has a very course grind. Skeen told Bruni that he grinds the burger differently from what he did at Resto: "The burger has a better texture, almost like a hand-chopped burger."

Bruni doesn't say much about the rest of the menu, apparently not as into praising the lard as Serious Eats' Ed Levine, but they can both agree that the burger is delicious.