P. J. Clarke's: A Pub That Doesn't Serve a Pub Burger

Fun Factoid
According to Wikipedia, "In the AMC Television series Mad Men, the employees of the Sterling Cooper advertising agency frequent P.J. Clarke's."
I've been to P. J. Clarke's a number of times—the original in Midtown East and the one near Lincoln Center (but not the one downtown). But the thing I always have to remind myself before I go is that, even though P. J. Clarke's is a pub, it does not serve a "pub burger."
What I mean is that P. J. Clarke's burger is not a gargantuan ten-ounce slightly flattened-softball-shape burger. You don't need a snake jaw to eat it, unlike so many of the sandwiches served at bars known for their burgers (I'm thinking Donovan's, Molly's, etc.).
Instead, you get what I'm guessing is closer to a five- or six-ounce patty, perfectly cooked to temperature, perfectly seasoned (OK, maybe just a bit too salty), and with just the right amount of char on it to give the surface some crunchy, chewy bits to play against the soft, juicy interior.
This is one great burger.
Juiciness factor: Not off the charts, but pretty darn moist. Check it out:

The P. J. Clarke's autopsy.

Hamburgers are $8.90, but you can add cheese for 95¢ And why wouldn't you? Look how awesomely they melted the cheese above (I opt for American goo 95 percent of the time).
The Clarke's burger comes with a thin slice of raw onion, a hefty pickle spear, and nothing else. No sides. No limp, lame leaf of lettuce or flavorless tomato to automatically discard. I regard this as a plus, while others might expect a little more for their $10. But since I find most french fries a distraction at best, I'm happy that there are none here to litter my plate.
Sides

Instead, you can get sides of fries ($4.10), home fries ($4.95), onion strings ($5.65), or bubble and squeak ($3.60). On a recent visit, we tried everything but the fries.
The home fries were good. Solid. Fried with just a bit of onion. Nothing else in there that shouldn't be—like cumin or rosemary. Could have used some salt, but that's what the shaker on the table's for.
The onion strings were good enough but mighty greasy. I'm more a fan of onion rings, because the strings seem to have too many nooks and crannies to trap oil. Still, these were better than the bubble and squeak, which purported to have bacon somewhere in it; we couldn't find it.
Lest We Forget the Mini Cheeseburgers

An order of mini cheeseburgers comes three to a pop. On the menu, the mini cheeseburger plate is listed as including bubble and squeak, all for a little more than $14. But you don't have to stick to bubble and squeak; you can sub in one of the other sides.
The mini cheeseburgers were cooked just as expertly as their big brother. Check out the autopsy below:

It's difficult to do mini burgers to temp—they're often overcooked—but Clarke's gets it right. The mini cheeseburgers here beat any of the fancified Kobe-beef bullshit you get at the Johnny-come-lately fancy-pants hipster places that serve them. Still, with a regular burger this good, I'd go for that option instead.
What You Should Know Before Going

The only time you'll see P. J. Clarke's empty is in this old-school photograph on the joint's wall. And that's Midtown Lunch publisher and SENY editor Zach Brooks, caught red-handed eating a dish that cost more than $10.
Be Prepared for a Wait: The P. J. Clarke's is in Midtown. Near a lot of high-powered corporate office buildings. And it has a well-worn, wood-and-brass clubby feel to it. Those factors combined mean that it is absolutely packed with businessfolk during lunch and right after business hours. It's the neighborhood cafeteria for people who don't have office cafeterias.
If You're Looking for a Softball-Size Burger, Head Elsewhere: As stated above, this is not a "pub burger" in the sense that we typically use the term here on AHT. It's an easily manageable size that won't leave you feeling bloated.
No Toppings, No Sides: The only topping you'll get is a thin slice of onion. Sides will cost you extra.
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17 Comments:
Hmm Im not sure on this one.... A smaller, not super juicy, over salty burger, served at a pub, sans fries, and beer.... that costs 14 dollars does not sound like a very good deal or burger at that price.... hell the bubble and squak looks like over glorified onion straws and lacks the cabbage and brussels that bubble and squeak should have. Well IDK it is Adam reviewing.... so maybe its just so good price is no object ? ?
s0m3f00l at 11:32AM on 08/14/08
Why is my ugly mug in this post!?!
Zach Brooks at 11:34AM on 08/14/08
@s0m3f00l: Maybe I hedge my praise too much. The burger here is great. If you go expecting a ginormous pub-style burger, you will be disappointed. But if you go expecting a reasonably sized, delicious, perfectly cooked burger, you will enjoy. It's just a *touch* too salty. I actually didn't have a problem with that, and maybe the only reason I mentioned it was that my dining companions noted the saltiness and commented on it. I probably should have left that out. The juiciness: Look at the autopsy. It's plenty moist. It's just not *gushing* with juice. Sometimes I think there's a thing as too much juice. This had just about the right amount. Also: Please read the post. $14 is for the mini cheeseburgers, which come with a side. So this is not a $14 burger served sans fries. It is at most a $9.95 cheeseburger served sans fries. Of course, I realize that $9.95 cheeseburger-only is a bit pricey. I guess all I can say is that A.) the beef here is top-notch; I know, through anonymous sources, who the supplier is, and it's a great supplier (and, no, it's not Pat La Frieda), and B.) it's in Midtown, in the heart of the corporate jungle, and they're counting on expense-account-wielding desk jockeys to put the burgers on their corporate AmEx.
Adam Kuban at 11:49AM on 08/14/08
@Zach: To tweak you! MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.
Adam Kuban at 11:50AM on 08/14/08
Yet again, I am the contrarian: I've had the burger a couple times, it was good but not worth the hassle of waiting forever only to be surrounded by obnoxious ex-frat boys become lawyers / finance dudes and their female alter ego squawking career chicks, sitting in cramped uncomfortable chairs in a lame ass neighborhood. Not to mention the price which as described gets you nothing more with the burger than a pickle and slice of white onion.
I'd much rather go to Landmarc across town where for 5 bucks more you get a bigger burger, made with better meat, served with a real nice salad AND fries, in a nicer space with a view of the park, in a better neighborhood, with a fantastic wine list and better beers.
My opinion likely would be tempered had I gone at an off peak hour when the place might not be such a zoo filled with the aforementioned dregs of society that tend to gather there.
simon at 12:07PM on 08/14/08
I love this burger. I used to go a lot before it was redone (zero atmosphere then for cerrtain) and I go sometimes now as well. The burger is well prepared and tastes great. I love the home fries and wouldn't get the fries. I have ordered the onion rings, but mainly to put on the burger. Still a great burger. The wait can be a pain for sure, but I usually go right before noon and there is no issue. Not the case at 12:15.
FoodBoy at 1:14PM on 08/14/08
@Adam Kuban Touche sir indeed If the meat is good then all the better and truthfully its not like I haven't paid 10$ for a burger before it just seemed as if you weren't 100% with the burger in the review. But from the sounds of it you are.... Now much like when Ed Levine on SENY or The big three on slice Adam/Ed/Daniel reccomend it as good I am forced to try it! Curse on you all!
s0m3f00l at 4:19PM on 08/14/08
"obnoxious ex-frat boys become lawyers / finance dudes and their female alter ego squawking career chicks"
What about the Motorhead sleeveless, acid wash jeans wearing hipsters and their Nietzsche quoting female alter egos discussing eternal recurrence and smoking cloves? Are they better?
SpandTex Pants at 4:31PM on 08/14/08
Ugh, no, they suck too. That's more of a Williamsburg crowd though, which I also avoid as much as possible.
simon at 4:55PM on 08/14/08
+1 for both of Simon's comments. We have those idiots in DC too, except they are the diluted version.
Tonecat at 1:34PM on 08/16/08
I haven't had the latest version of Clarke's burger, but I can tell you way back in the late Seventies, before they cleaned the joint up, it was considered one of the best burgers in town. I got to know the staff as I was a bartender down the street and would often go into Clarke's after my shift ended--they said the burgers were ground prime meat--they were even considered small for the time, but were fantastic and served on a small white paper plate with a slice of raw onion.
On a side note for Clarke fans of that era, the wait staff in the back room had a little routine for customers who were a pain in the ass. They would "86" them, which of course means to cut someone off from drinking. But what they would do to the jerk, would be to add a shot of 100 proof vodka to whatever they were drinking (wine, beer, whatever)--in no time the unsuspecting patron would be smashed and heading for home. And in those days, Clarke's was open to 4am every night and you had lots of people deserving to be "86"'d.
jackdog at 7:14PM on 08/16/08
I completely agree with this review of PJ Clarke's, which in my opinion doesn't always get the love and praise it deserves (while places that serve burgers not nearly as good, like a certain place near the meatpacking district, for example, often get way more than they deserve). I also think that 6 ounces is the perfect size for a burger, I don't enjoy the challenge of fitting 8-10 ounce burgers into my mouth or (especially) in the case of the latter, finishing them. For me, the cadillac (bacon cheeseburger, american cheese of course) with raw onion is perfection on a bun.
Also, regarding the "obnoxious ex-frat boys become lawyers / finance dudes and their female alter ego squawking career chicks", if they can appreciate this burger, then they can't be that bad.
cadillacphil at 4:22PM on 08/17/08
As I "inherited" the tradition of going to P.J Clarke's from my dad, I have to say that is one of the best burgers in my book. Every time in NY(from Sweden, not there that often) I have to go. Still, I wish that I had ordered something else than the home fries last time, a little bit to mushy, little or no onions and quite a bland dish as a whole.
But the simplicity of the burger and the quality of the meat really makes this worthwile.
(and thanks for a great blog)
SweDish at 8:48AM on 08/18/08
PJ's one of the best burgers in New York City, no doubt. It may even be the very best!
Of course, hipsters, loonies and gastronomic illiterates will keep flocking to overrated and overpriced burger joints like Pop Burger or the Madison Shack while ignoring the Clarke's.
Good for me! And good for them because that's all they like, paper-thin patties splashed with crap sauce and too much lettuce and tomato.
At PJ's, it's the real stuff.
Manhattanite at 3:43PM on 08/19/08
PJ's burger is good, and would be better if they toasted the bun (which they will do, if asked.) But, as a poster above pointed out, Landmarc's is better, in more or less the same neighborhood on the mid West Side.
Lippy at 9:35AM on 08/20/08
@Lippy: True. I think my bun was very mildly toasted. More like, it appeared to have been waved in the direction of a toaster.
Adam Kuban at 10:19AM on 08/20/08
I had my wedding reception at the Sidecar (upstairs white tablecloth dining room) and the mini burgers were a crowd favorite - a zillion times better than those dry little meat/bun bombs served anywhere else, as they were just smaller versions of the juicy goodness served downstairs in the pub
i love this burger!
jpmcd at 4:32PM on 08/22/08