PrintSomerville, Mass.: R. F. O'Sullivan & Son
It is a well-accepted fact that if you live in the Boston area long enough, you're going to have a buddy named Sully. With that in mind, I'd like you to meet mine:
Located in Somerville, Massachusetts, next door to my friend Pete, O'Sullivan's serves up some amazing burgers. They're thick, they're tall, and they take a long time to cook. I would suggest showing up at O'Sullivan's about a half an hour less hungry than you think you are. That's complicated math, but trust me, it's worth figuring out. You're going to wait, and it's worth it. So, sit down and relax, pally.
A Black and Blue Every burger starts out at half a pound of lean ground sirloin and includes fries. From there, you have nearly thirty suggestions for how to top your burger, or you can make up your own. According to a 2002 article in the Boston Globe, Sully's "goes through 1,000 pounds of Idaho baked potatoes a week, and 400 pounds of ground sirloin." That's no small potatoes, ha ha.
On my most recent trip (disguised as a visit to congratulate friends on their recent engagement, but they knew what I was really there for) I decided to explore the mystery of the Radish Burger. Described as being topped with a "tangy radish sauce", I wasn't really sure what to expect. But I trust Sully, and he almost never lets me down.
It is worth mentioning, maybe, that I was recently disappointed here. The second to last time I was in Boston, I made plans to hit up O'Sullivan's with friends. I knew I wouldn't be getting into town until late, and I asked someone to call ahead and find out how late the kitchen is open. My friend reported back that we had until one o'clock. Boston isn't much of a late night city, and this surprised me, but I was happy to hear it. Sure enough, it turns out the bar is open until one, but the kitchen closes at ten. We managed to squeak in just past ten, and the waitress told us it was ok. Sadly, she was on the money: the burgers were just ok, nothing special. My friends seemed to like theirs, but I knew the restaurant could do better. But everyone has off-nights, now and again. Furthermore I would not recommend being the last customers of the night anywhere.
Radish Burger So, back to the Radish Burger... I ordered it cooked medium, and substituted onion rings for fries. The fries here are closer in size to a KFC's potato wedge, but taste considerably better. Still, I prefer onion rings, so there you go. In the interest of full disclosure, I also ordered a house salad. The requisite twenty minutes later, I had a perfectly cooked burger and onion rings sitting in front of me. They would not be there for long.
The radish in question turned out to be of the horse variety, and was indeed tangy. Some sort of cheese had also made its way onto my burger, although it had not been requested. I checked the menu to see if cheese was an automatic inclusion on the Radish Burger. It wasn't, but I like cheese, so no big deal. I have no doubt in my mind that they would have corrected their mistake cheerfully and without issue, but given the potential wait, it really wasn't worthwhile. In any case, the burger was delicious, and I will certainly order the Radish Burger again.
O'Sullivan's is a small pub-style restaurant, with tables along the walls, and a horseshoe shaped bar in the middle. It gets very crowded on Friday and Saturday nights, but the wait (for a table, not for a burger) never seems to be all that long. The burgers are cooked on a small grill behind the bar. There are no secrets in this kitchen, as you can see absolutely everything that's going on. Sitting at the bar is the way to go, if you can, as the banter with the staff is consistently entertaining and informative.
The fact that I ordered the Radish Burger prompted the guy behind the bar to tell me about how much he likes the Radish Burger, and how he's a big fan of rolling the burgers in pepper and then adding radish sauce. That sounded delicious, and I told him my usual favorite is the Black and Blue (fresh crushed black pepper, topped with blue cheese and comes with 1/2 fries and 1/2 onion rings). He said that was a popular choice, but that many people now order the Out of the Blu (stuffed... with fresh blue cheese) rolled in black pepper. I was full, and yet, I wanted to eat again.
A burger this big might be too much. Then again, Sully's also offers the Empire State Burger, "a large 1/2 pounder covered by a fresh Italian sausage then smothered with Mozzarella cheese" and suggests you top it with grilled onions and peppers. Take that, Fourth of July Burger. I find the pricing here quite reasonable considering the quality and portions. O'Sullivan's is the kind of friend I wish I lived next door to, but I'm somewhat relieved that I don't.
R. F. O'Sullivan & Son
Address: 282 Beacon Street, Somerville, MA 02143 (map)
Phone: 617-492-7773
Website: rf-osullivan.com
Short Order: My favorite! Tall, slowly cooked, and topped however you like. Hamburger or cheeseburger with fries is $7.95 and only moderately more expensive from there.
Want Fries With That? You're getting 'em! Thick, well-seasoned potato wedges come with every burger. Half fries–half onion rings costs only 75¢ extra or comes automatically with the Black and Blue.
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13 Comments:
I love how their "Chinatown" burger comes with teriyaki sauce. Homemade no less!
porkified at 1:32PM on 01/24/08
Forget it, porkfried. It's Chinatown.
Lauren Krueger at 1:34PM on 01/24/08
Sorry, these burgers suck. The meat is too lean, ground too fine, and there isn't any seasoning to speak of. This means the puck-shaped burger is dry, grainy, and rather flavorless. Is it any surprise that there are dozens of topping options to disguise the crappy burger itself?
The potato wedge thingies just add insult to injury. They're waaay too thick to be enjoyable as a french fry type item, and very dry in the middle. Pretty much the evil doppelganger of KFC's delectable potato wedges. There is no way that most people would consider RFO's wedges to taste "considerably better."
The rest of the menu is pretty weak, too... the $12 "ribeye" is unidentifiable, chewy, and unseasoned, and the fish and chips (with the hideous wedges, not proper chips) were served to me undercooked (like, with liquid batter squirting out of the fish pieces).
The "R.F. O'Sullivan root beer" is a generic HFCS/artificial flavor concoction with a customized label.
Luther at 2:42PM on 01/24/08
Oh, and the good burgers in Boston: Eagle's Deli in Cleveland Circle, and Grille Zone on Comm Av in Allston.
Luther at 2:43PM on 01/24/08
...sounds like this Bostonian is frozen over from the recent snow. I do agree that they don't have the best burger ever, but Sullivan's is worth a stop.
Nowhere I've tried yet can touch Le Tub though...I'd say Father's Office and Stage Left have been the closest so far.
What's your opinion on Mr. Bartley's?
mmakis at 5:06PM on 01/24/08
I had Bartley's a few months ago while in Boston. The place was packed. The burger menu is a bit overwhelming however I decided to go classic...lettuce, tomato, onion and american cheese. I really thought it was a flavorless burger. Maybe I didn't enjoy it much because I was drinking guinness all day and the place does not have a bathroom.
davey at 8:04PM on 01/24/08
I actually do live right next door to O'Sullivan. And I am a vegetarian. But, through my window, I can smell the meat cooking all day every day, and it is torture.
annatr at 8:39PM on 01/24/08
Sounds like you continue to torture yourself by visiting this site. Take the plunge...everything will be ok. You know you want it.
davey at 6:49AM on 01/25/08
@Relish - That's why they make chocolate and vanilla, my grandfather used to say. Your opinion is definitely appreciated, although I can't believe anyone actually likes KFC's potato wedges. I'll have to check out Eagle's Deli again next time I'm in town.
@mmakis - Mr. Bartley's was a favorite of mine when I worked in Harvard Square, but I think I liked the crazed atmosphere more than the burgers themselves. It's definitely on the list of places to revisit, as my travel budget permits.
@anntr - Do you know Pete?! Ask him about Sully's veggie burger.
Lauren Krueger at 10:23AM on 01/25/08
I used to live next door - in that brick building you can see in the picture.
I am going to stick up for their fries, big time. Despite being basically wedges, they are never overdone on the outside, and never underdone on the inside. They are also exceptionally good at hanging on to salt - and I like my fries salty.
Their entrees are a mixed bag, but their tips and cajun items are pretty good and a pretty good value (for the area). Plus, you can get a pie afterwards at Petsi Pies across the street,
On the down side, they charge you a quarter if you want lettuce on your burger...jerks.
shlotz at 11:04AM on 01/25/08
The joint in the pic sure has that bluesy cool burger joint vibe goin' on. Sounds like the burger doesn't stand up to the vibe though. Charging for lettuce on a burger? They must really care about thier customers.
Cheers, TB.
texas blues at 1:05PM on 01/26/08
TB, many places in NY charge for "deluxe" burgers, which usually means lettuce, tomato, and fries. Sully's gives you the fries and one free cheese but charges for lettuce and tomato. Whatcha gonna do?
I stand by my assertion that this place deserves a try. The burger is unique and most of the time quite delicious. Then again, it's a small joint, and I don't mind having it to myself.
Lauren Krueger at 1:29PM on 01/26/08
Don't get me wrong Lauren..I would rather spend my cash at Sully's over the big chains and a host of well known lameburgers here in Las Vegas. The 'thang is, a joint like Sully's can adapt and improve while most if not all others will remain the same. I don't like alot of lettuce on my burger anyhow...
Cheers, TB.
texas blues at 1:25PM on 01/27/08