From the Mailbag: Does this Count as a Cheeseburger?

Posted by Lauren Krueger, January 18, 2008 at 1:30 PM

Dear AHT,
I'm in Hawaii, and I thought of your Cheeseburger Challenge [This one? —LK] when I saw this local special called the Loco Moco.

Does this count as a cheeseburger?

After traveling a lot this year (all 50 states on a motorcycle, and a visit to a couple countries in Europe), I've had a chance to try a lot of local specialties. I'm definitely always interested in trying local dishes. After seeing the Loco Moco in a couple of places, I decided it wasn't a joke and tried one. I think it's on the edge of burgerdom with one toe over the line. If you loosely define burgers as meat patties with a starch, then this qualifies. But it's definitely not a traditional one.

The Loco Moco was a serious meal, definitely not meant for a snack. I also needed a plate. After hearing Michael Polan say that something like 20% of meals are consumed on the go, this is one that wouldn't do well in a box or in a wrapper.  I certainly enjoyed the fried rice bed, gravy, eggs, not to mention the beef patty buried in the rest.

Happy New Year to you, Burger on!
—Ryan

Dear Ryan,
Like I need another reason to visit Hawaii?

Very interesting question! It has cheese, and it has a burger, but I'm not entirely comfortable labeling it a cheeseburger. According to Wikipedia, although the original Loco Moco was made with a beef patty, Loco Mocos (Locos Moco? Loco Mocii?) can feature fish, chicken, or even Spam. And while any of these meats could be shaped into a patty, it is my understanding that they usually aren't when included in the Loco Moco. So then, if the burger isn't essential to the dish, I don't feel compelled to label the dish a burger. It's definitely a close cousin, though.

Your trip sounds amazing. Any other burgers or burger-like meals we should know about?

Thanks for thinking of us. Happy new year yourself!

Sin-sear-ly,
—Lauren

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Tags: Dear AHT, Hawaii, loco moco