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Eric Ripert Between Two Buns

20071228_RipertBurger.jpgChallah buns, that is. At Ripert’s a-couple-month old West End Bistro inside Washington, D.C.'s Ritz, the burger has already been baptized the best in the city by one Yelper. But eighteen bucks? There’s nothing fancy on it—no onions dripping in duck fat or aged cheese. No hint of truffle. Not even a homemade grainy mustard! But it’s thick, juicy and a straightforward classic. Still worth twenty bucks with tax? Meh.

The Angus sirloin, straight from pampered cows at Maine's Pineland Farms, is simply seasoned—just salt and pepper. Onions aren’t grilled. Pickles are just the bread and butter kind. Ketchup, mayo, and mustard aren't made in house—just the iconic brands poured into a trio dish. Tomatoes and lettuce are crisp, sure. But the challah is probably the best part. Soft and fluffy, it beats the bulky white kind that's ready to choke you. It's moist like a buttery brioche would be and sticks to the meat, given all that moisture.

Compared to other Washington haute bistros, it’s actually pretty average-priced. Michel Richard does his at Central for $16—and $18 for the tuna burger, $29 for lobster and $18 for shrimp. BLT Steak’s is $16, Morton’s is $14, Charlie Palmer’s and D.C. Coast both have one for $13. But the steep price is still controversial in foodie circles. Recently opened Marvin got beef for its $15 burger. But, but.. "it's all organic Angus beef ... with Chimay cheese ... served on an onion brioche bun ... and it comes with chanterelles," the owner whined to the City Paper. But it's a burger, says the rest of the world.

West End Bistro

Address: 1190 22nd Street NW, Washington DC 20037
Phone: 202-974-4900
Website: westendbistrodc.com

9 Comments:

Never paid $18 for a burger. Looks good. If I ever go to Washington DC, might have to try the Eric Ripert burger at the West End Bistro. The famous name makes everything more expensive.

My gal and I went to Mandalay Bay Burger Bar here in Las Vegas last week. Similare to the Eric Ripert joint. The basic burger started at 9 shekels or so and after toppings were added, ended up at about $15. The burger setup on the side, onion, tom and lettuce w/pickle spear, was limp and weak. My burger was served a perfect medium rare with blue cheese crumbles and jalapenos as per my request. The meat and bun were perfect. Was it worth the $15 for it? Yes and no. Fighting traffic on the strip to get there? No. As a second destination if already in the area? Maybe. To be sure, the burger was damned good but....$15? Aren't burgers American? I smell French. Cheers, TB.

I live in a culinary wasteland (Salinas, California), and at the white cloth, "upscale" restaurant in Old Town, they're charging $15 for a burger. Admittedly, it's a very good burger, and the fries are excellent, but I do cringe a little bit every time I order it. $15. Salinas. Burger. Oy.

An hour away, in San Jose, "Counter" has opened a place in Santana Row--really good burgers, good price (about $8) and awesome sweet potato fries too.

Thanks for reminding me. I forgot to mention the fries. They were sprinkled with herbs de Provence. Really fragrant and good.

I had Micheal Richard's Central burger the other day, and I must say, it was worth the $18.

Also, I asked for mayo for my fries, and they brought over their house made stuff, and the waiter went on and on about how good it was.

He was right.

$18 burgers are a once every other month treat, but people should definitely indulge.

Also, why would I go all the way over to the West End of DC for a burger???

Let's see......how many restaurant meals have I had that cost at least $14 and didn't even taste good? I'll take a great hamburger over a rubbery piece of _____ (fill in the blank) any day.

I've had both Micheal Richard's Central burger and West End Bistro's burger. I absolutely vote for West End Bistro's burger. I thought their meat was very juicy and simple in a good way. Really high-quality of meat. Plus, their bun has a taste like brioche. I could just eat the bun itself. I was actually very dissapointed by Central's burger. I didn't like the seasoning at all. The bun was very bland, so I even couldn't finish the half of the burger.
I might be one of the very few to prefer Westend's burger. I hope Westened won't be as crowded as it is now.

I am sorry. I am not paying $18 for a hamburger. $10 is the limit.

Amen to that, PerkyMac!

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