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Shacklash in the 'New York Post'

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Steve Cuozzo's got some things to say about the Shake Shack in the New York Post, a handful of which I am going to respond to:

When the griddle is clicking on all cylinders, the Shackburger attains a modicum of flavor and a reasonable compromise between tender and chewy.

FALSE!When the griddle, grillmen and grillwomen, cashiers, and expediters are all firing on all cylinders, the Shack attains more than a modicum of flavor—it is downright delicious. The burger is moist (if not gushing with juices) with a crunchy, crusty, salty exterior and a great bun-to-meat ratio. Unfortunately, when you go at peak hours, it's a rare occurrence that all the meatslinging machinery's in tune. Burgers too often come out overcooked and lukewarm.

It’s not like the food is remotely good enough to justify a standard, one- to two-hour wait. For me that day, it was one hour, 15 minutes - 45 minutes on the ordering line and 30 minutes more at the pickup station.

TRUE! See the photo above, people. If you wait in a line any longer than that indicated, you're an idiot. First, it's questionable that any burger is worth an hour-plus wait in line. Second, if the line is that long, you're probably going to get a subpar Shackburger.

The beef is ground at Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park across the street - gilt by association with one of the city’s finest restaurants. Cooked only one way - medium, which too often means medium-well - it’s topped with cheap American cheese, a mayo-based sauce, lettuce and insipid tomato slices inside a lightly-grilled bun.

TRUE and FALSE!
True: When it's cooked to medium, it's a great burger—but Cuozzo's right, at peak hours, the things get overcooked.

False: He is wrong, however, about the cheese; American "cheese" is the perfect cheesestuff for a burger of this type.

True: The tomato slices blow, but that's true of tomato slices at most burger joints. I almost never order mine with tomatoes. I think the standard Shackburger is vastly inferior to a standard cheeseburger with pickles and onions.

Left Unsaid: Cuozzo should have added that the Shack sauce is a tired old mayo-ketchup-based concoction that adds almost nothing to the burger.

And, yes, I know there's another article in the Post detailing the city's best burgers. I'll get to that in a bit ...

Photograph from Mikebrittain on Flickr

8 Comments:

Amen Adam. well put. I love the Shack burger but there are so many other good ones these days that I won't even wait in line anymore. Hell I could drive to White Manna in the time it takes to wait these days. I have always maintained that a Goodburger opening up on 23rd st/Madison would make and absolute killing. I live close to the park and use the handy Shack cam to see if there is a line. If I see people in the frame I don't go. Lately there has been a line all the way til 11PM! I like to play a game when the cam page loads, I stick my finger on the screen at the point where I think the line will end and I am getting pretty good at guessing. The line gets longer and longer though...

Hi there I just discovered your blog and I say I find it really interesting. Where I come from hamburgers are considered blasphemy to gastronomy (france) but your blog goes deep into all aspects of hamburgers. I think you got yourself a new follower. Keep writing, I'll keep reading! Also don't hesitate to visit my blog, it's not about burgers, though I wish there were more burgers in it, but it has its boring and interesting parts like any random blog. C ya!

I still haven't gone to Shake Shack, though I'm dying to try their burgers. I figured out the line from a few walks by and decided I'm not waiting an hour and 15 for a burger. I'll likely pop over when the line is more tolerable. I'm a huge fan of JG Melons though and noticed it didn't make the Post list. Better than PJ Clarke's, and not in midtown (always a benefit). What's the deal with that snub?

Your graphic is genius.

I posted a long slam of the article on the coresponding NYPost comments page. In summary I felt like his article revealed only one thing, that "Steve Cuozzo hates long lines". Also, it could be said that "Steve Cuozzo is not smart enough to hit an incredibly popular and busy burger stand at off hours"... like so many other haters. And as if this argument wasn't absurd enough(and redundant and tires etc etc etc) I predictably ran across a line about 12 deep just after 6pm last night. Made my day....

I think part of the lure of the shack on a nice day for the hundreds of office drones in the area is the prospect of actually getting out and seeing sunlight and breathing fresh air. If that involves waiting on a line for a tasty hamburger (or shroom burger), so be it. I could think of worse places to be... like my desk.

@Beef Aficionado: Exactly. You just have to game the line. @Goreface: Thanks for the link and the kind words! I'm sorry to hear that the burger is blasphemy in France. :( @pauper: I need to go there and see where that pole is. That might be a better landmark. Thanks for the tip! @Anthony: Melons is great! I'm sad to see it wasn't in there, either. Luger being in there was wack. @Sarah: Thanks! My inner curmudgeon created that. @m: I'm clicking over to check out your slam. I can't blame Cuozzo for hating lines, though. I hate them, too, which is why I go to SS at off hours, as you wisely suggest.

"I can't blame Cuozzo for hating lines" yeah I know, i just get worked up when journalists or writers base food critisism almost entirely on everything but the food. ... and my "slam" was a little zelous, was a rough day at the office ;-)

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