PrintStand: The Etymology of 'Burger Backslider'
Update: Word is the bun has changed. I'm heading in later today to try it with the new bun. If this is true, Stand could well rank in my top 10 burger list. 1/19/2008
STAND
Address: 24 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003
Phone: 212-488-5900
URL: standburger.com
The Short Order: It coulda been a contender, but its gnarly baguette-tough bun inspires a new piece of burger phraseology here at AHT: The Backslider
Want Fries with That? Beats me. They look great in Bruni's post on the place, but I had the onion rings, which were rockin'.
Stand, blogged to AHT from the Flickr photostream of Slice
These photos are from Stand on East 12th Street and University Place near Union Square in New York. I finally went today for the first time.*
To many New Yorkers, and certainly to foodbloggers, this burger is old news. I know it. Mea culpa. Stand opened ages ago. But, somehow, earlier this year, I lost my burger-blogging mojo.
I think I have it back. But not because of this burger.
Sure, it was good. I'll give it that.
Seven ounces of great-tasting, beefy flavored meat. Nice interplay of Dijon, red onion, and sweet homemade ketchup. And the lettuce, tomato, sliced pickle were certainly fresh enough.
Moreover, you couldn't ask for a more beautiful-looking meal—the large photos above are two of the best burger photos I've ever taken.
But this burger's bun is UNFORGIVABLE.
The baguette-like conveyance that sandwiches the meat, cheese, and toppings is far too chewy. As with the worst overstuffed deli sandwiches, burger & co. squirt out the back end when you apply the tooth pressure required to bite through this gnarly bun.
From this day forward, and unless and until I can think of something better, all such burgers marked by this nasty trait will be known as "backsliders."
It's a shame, too, because this could be a great burger given a new bun.
* This is a damn shame because, according to Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky, I missed this burger when it was a 70-30 mixture of beef-to-fat. Dammit!
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20 Comments:
I agree, I ended up eating it with a knife and fork. And you'd think since they've been open for a while and EVERYONE complains about the bun, they'd replace it with something softer. The onion rings are indeed amazing, though. And it cracks me up the chef is a vegetarian. That's probably why the bun is still such a nuisance--she's hasn't had to fight with it yet.
Hamburger Lisa (Homesick Texan) at 4:32AM on 04/11/07
I ate there recently as well, and was unimpressed.
Hamburger T.A.B. at 1:59PM on 04/11/07
Hear, hear. Stand's burgers are hard to enjoy, they're so messy. Every time I've eaten there half the meat ends up on my plate. Sadly, the burgers are otherwise excellent. Here's hoping they come up with a new bun --in the meantime, any potential Stand customers are better off walking two blocks west to BLT Burger.
Hamburger dme at 5:39PM on 04/11/07
my coworker has declared Stand to have "the best ice in the city."
Hamburger jmunchie at 11:41PM on 04/11/07
JMunchie: I agree with your coworker. I actually had that thought as I was drinking my Coke there. I _almost_ took a picture of it!
Adam Kuban at 11:54PM on 04/11/07
Their burgers are fantastic. Don't let the haters fool ya! The bun is totally a style that some peeps get into, you might be one of them. I'm one of them. It's that 'roll from the local bakery' style. Better than a processed Wonder Bread bun. Yech. Don't forget to try the homemade Ginger Soda. The Toasted Marshmallow Shake!!!! Is to die for. PS A note to the Editor/Webmaster: Why hide reader comments behind a link "Comments" Show them front and center below your piece and let readers rebut. Who's gonna see the comments. Seriously. You get to say what you want and rebuttals are hidden away. Thanks! Love ya like the IRS!
Hamburger Salma Salami at 5:32AM on 04/12/07
Hi, Salma: Thanks for stopping by and commenting. Point taken on the bun. I don't like it, but others might. As for comments "hidden" behind the link -- I used to have the comments front and center below the posts on this site, but I had to switch to this pop-up window method because the old way wasn't working. The blogging software I use couldn't handle the comments well and made them post really slow. I'm working on a way to bring those comments back on the same page. --Adam K.
Adam Kuban at 6:00AM on 04/12/07
i will probably end up trying this at some point, but i am of the mind that a messy burger experience (due to topping slidage and/or disastrous buns) is less than satisfactory.
Hamburger janelle at 3:03PM on 04/12/07
Agree that the bun is a little chewy, but I have to say it's a very minor criticism...I love this place. I've been here 4 or 5 times in the last 2 months, have the same pot of pickles, classic burger and onion rings every time and they are always, always excellent and full of flavor. It's also pretty reasonably priced.
Hamburger AJM at 6:23PM on 04/12/07
At least they've stopped used that cheese sauce in favor of a slice of cheese, or so it appears from your photos.
Hamburger Laren at 11:12PM on 04/12/07
Those are great burger shots Adam!
Hamburger Hamburger America at 5:47AM on 04/13/07
I'm addicted to this place. Love the burgers, buns included. In fact, I much prefer that brioche style bun to the thin potato ones. I find the burgers hold up better than most. Also kickass: the fries, the onion rings, the beer selection, and especially those thick shakes.
Hamburger BeatsMe at 6:02PM on 04/16/07
I also loved the bun. And yeah, amazing beer selection. Looking forward to going back.
Hamburger chris at 2:03AM on 04/17/07
okay, so i went last night. i like the actual bread of the bun, but you're right about the backslide. you end up poking the meat and pushing it against the plate to keep it in the bun. that said, i kind of like when there's a lot of meat in the last bite. and calvin said the onion rings may be "the best he's ever had." the service was also really, really lacking when we went. like, what's the point of a free refill if you don't come around to give me one. or check on the table at all.
Hamburger tien at 3:49PM on 04/20/07
Tien: I forgot to mention the service, but you're right. It took forever before they took my order. AND the server first took an order for a woman who had been seated after me before she took mine. And, yeah, I didn't get a refill either. Oh well.
Adam Kuban at 9:52PM on 04/20/07
I had lunch there on Sunday, and my biggest complaint had to be the minute size of the egg cream. I live in Los Angeles and was in the city for a few days. The line at Shake Shack was way too long so we hit Stand. I liked the heartiness of the bun, because I ordered my burger extra extra rare, and the amount of juice turns ordinary buns into mush, and this bun even had a bit of the same problem. I have to say though, my friend who ordered the veggie burger made the best choice, I think it was the most flavorful of all of the burgers we had there. But the Toasted Marshmallow shake? Heaven in a glass, if only The Counter would make them.
Hamburger Suzsqueak at 4:35PM on 04/25/07
I just got back from a 4 day burgerfest in NYC and tried all the top burger joints in town....I have to say that the Stand was hands above anyone else in burgers. I loved the mod decor, overall style, menu design, and the food was excellent. The bun was a 'backslider' but half the burgers I had in NYC were as well so its hard for me to criticize for that. Best thing there were the onion rings...tempura batter? oh man they were awesome.
Hamburger Barry at 2:47AM on 05/22/07
Now come on, A poor mechanic blames his tools!
The crusty chewy bun will bring me to a place. Spongy white bread is Not the Only answer for a Hamburger.
To eat a burger with this type of Bun , one must use technique to keep things together. Try using counter-pressure, as you bite you Pinch the back of the bun.
I can not believe people are complaining about messy? If it tastes Good, who the F cares if its messy!
Roll up your Sleeves and enjoy a good burger.
phauxtoe at 9:05AM on 04/01/08
Phauxtoe: The bun has changed, and this burger now rocks. I stand by my earlier assessment, however, that the too-chewy bun was a bad move. Did you ever try this burger with that bun? The patty slid right out the back. A burger doesn't necessarily need the white squishy bun, but a burger does need a bun -- if I wanted to eat my fallen patty off the plate with a fork, I would order a Hamburg steak with a dinner roll on the side.
Adam Kuban at 9:32AM on 04/01/08
While the food has improved in the time that this establishment opened its doors, the service has plummeted beyond hope. It's a pity that the tasty fare in this clean, noisy and open space is spoiled so much by an unapologetically surly, unkempt, and utterly uncaring staff, from the moment you walk in to the moment you pay the relatively hefty check and leave. Perhaps this presentation to some translates as hip or cool, but many of us still believe that service is just as important to the visit as the food. Do not go expecting to feel welcome; read the menu thoroughly to understand the local lexicon (as it will not be explained to you in any detail); and any misunderstandings with your order are your fault...not theirs (and with much eye-rolling, they will go to lengths explaining why it's your fault, stupid customer). Nice space, interesting food...definitely not worth the attitude. Too many other far better choices in this neighborhood!
outny at 8:00PM on 07/15/08