Save Irv's Burgers!
Shortly after undertaking my exploration of Los Angeles's burgers, I heard more and more whispers about Irv's, the classic West Hollywood hamburger stand in constant danger of being turned into yet another redundant chain store, thanks to its precarious month-to-month lease on some prime real estate. As my burger search intensified, so did the pressure to bring the word about Irv's to AHT readers; support is desperately needed for its plight. A surprising plight, considering Irv's shows up on every food critic's top-Angeleno-burger list.
Irv's is one of few remaining Post-WWII California roadside diners that sits along Route 66, that fabled stretch of highway that once ran from the Pacific Ocean through the Southwest to Chicago. There used to be hundreds of joints just like it, quickly dispatching burgers to Cali's erupting car culture. Irv's, dubbed Queen's Burgers in olden times, was the beloved burger of '70s heroes like Cassavettes, Rowlands, Hendrix, Janis, and Mr. Mojo Rising. Linda Ronstadt even featured Irv's on one of her LP covers in her superhottie days (see photo, above right). Check their history on their website, a true testament to Irv's value in this city and nation's heritage.
Today, it is owned by the incredible Hong family, striving to keep their business at Irv's as much as the community is clamoring to keep them. Locals formed a vigilante crew, the Burger Brigade, dedicated to defending Irv's from ubiquitous corporate greed.
Last Saturday, during an action-packed tour I was giving to a visiting Floridian amigo, I swerved from Melrose to Fairfax to Santa Monica, hunting down Irv's, which has been stationed there since 1950. Wading through Saturday-afternoon traffic, I spotted my destination at Sweetzer, realizing I had passed the corner 80 times in the past six months without once spotting Irv's. Upon inspection, I saw that it proudly stands, 55 years of burger history, behind a colorful hand-painted hut, sporting simple patio seating blanketed with homemade roofing.
At the counter, a beautiful, friendly face, illuminated by a bright-pink shirt, popped out from the stand's shallow confines. I was sweetly greeted and asked for my order. With each request and ensuing adjustment, my sweet young order-taker showed a knack for warm-hearted prophecy. "I know you wanted a cheeseburger," she said, noting, "Grilled onionsgood for Saturday." Never have I had service with such genuine smiles and spirit. The sugary lass is Sonia Hong (see photo, left), owner of Irv's. She clearly has a genuine passion for serving burgers to her neighborhood fans, evident in the flavor of the eats. She even posed for pictures, something the Apple (Dumplin') Pan Gang didn't seem into (Apple Pan review to come).
When my Irv's cheeseburger hit the easy, breezy tables, I was truly touched by the hand-drawn blue shirt and inscription, "Just for You," on my paper plate (see photo, second row from top). It gave me feelings of specialness I'd never felt before. Sonia has a reputation for customer interaction that goes above and beyond, often knowing intimate details of her burger-, breakfast-, and teriyaki-addicts' lives and hollerin' at 'em by name. Cute, sweet, and funny (sigh). But can she pull a burger bachelor's dream quartet by serving a perfect burger?
Holding up my medium-size cheeseburger, I sensed a certain sizzle in the meat but found nothing predominantly unusual about Irv's burger. Ah, until the bun! Toasted to a nice crispness, its soft bread encased in a light crusty shell, it is the first wonderful feature in the Irv's experience. Upon my first bite, I was moved to new heights.
The texture of the patty was as close to perfect as I'd had in a few weeks of burger grubbing. It was coarse and roughly hewn, collapsing gently in my mouth in a spicy mix. The patty had a salty taste that complemented and balanced the smokier flavors from the grill. The patty is thin, but its rough surface caries many craters of flavor and juice. There was mention of a secret sauce, but I couldn't really tell, not that anything more was needed than the meaty mix of cheese, burger, bread, and cold, crisp ingredients.
Onion, lettuce, tomato, and pickles played backup but came in second to Irv's crumbly patties and crunchy bun. The melted cheese looked like American but gained savory sensations from Irv's magic grill, tasting more like a sharp cheddar when blending into its foil. Irv's burgers are delectable. Definitely some of L.A.'s top treats. My friend Cody and I even considered getting another but had to hit the road (which led, not surprisingly, to Venice beachside hamburgers at a friend's party).
Irv's french fries cannot be missed, either. They are some of the best I've experienced in the city. Though they are thick (which I normally don't like) and appear double fried, (double my dislike), they were still the softest fries, near liquidy in the center, oozing apart under their thin, crisp skins. Deceptive, they looked spiced and seasoned but actually didn't have much zing. Nonetheless, from texture and taste, these fries are an excellent indulgence worthy of the early coronary.
I guess sometimes you really can believe the hype. Irv's is all it's been cracked up to be and truthfully deserves historic status. At the very least, I hope Irv's will remain for years to come. I was totally seduced by Sonia's sweetness and hamburgers, and envision repeat visits for as long as possible.
Sonia is leasing the place from Irv himself, and things aren't looking great. With more than 1,400 people on their side, the Hong family (Mama, Sean, and Sonia) continues the fight against corporate Goliaths.
Losing a treasure like Irv's for another stretch of homogenous storefronts would only sound a further death knell for U.S. ingenuity and individual entrepreneurialism. Irv's Burgers represents our history and is an asset to Californian tastebuds. If it takes burgers to rouse our collective brother- and sisterhood and defend the little guyin service for posterity and the preservation of our pastthen the burger we shall rally 'round.
Save Irv's!
IRV'S BURGERS
Location: 8289 Santa Monica Blvd. (at Sweetzer), West Hollywood CA 90046
Phone: 323-650-2456
Website: irvsburgers.com
Price: Hamburgers, $2.91; cheeseburgers, $3.10; double burgers, $3.75
Hours: Mon. through Fri., 7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.; closed Sundays
Short Order: Legendary Route 66 survivor boasts killer hamburgers and needs your support.
EXTRAS
Join the Burger Brigade [Epicurious]
Counter Intelligence: The Last Burger Stand [LA Weekly]
L.A. Burger Stand Fighting for its Life [Route 66 University]
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15 Comments:
I'd planned to check out Irv's when in LA next month. Now I can't miss it.
Hamburger Justin H. at 1:39PM on 08/02/05
Hadley,
the burger looks fantastic! I've been craving a decently prepared burger for a while now and will presumably have to wait a few more weeks (we'll be headed to CO for a couple of weeks). I gave a few places here in Munich a try, but none of them could even remotely compare to the burgers I had in the US...
Hamburger Oliver at 2:03PM on 08/02/05
Great Oliver and Justin!
You should also check the Apple Pan for a solid, classic L.A. burger with awesome ambiance. I have a list of over 50 burgers to try in L.A. Can't wait 'til the next one!!
Hamburglar Hadley at 4:45PM on 08/02/05
I'm a big fan of this site, and nobody on this earth appreciates a good hamburger more than I do, but the argument posed by this this article is absurd.
The "corporate greed" that you bemoan is simply the original owner Irv, and his family, trying to sell the property that they have built, owned, and worked for years. What right do any of us have to insist that Irv, who worked hard to make these great hamburgers all these years, forego the ability to retire comfortably so that we can continue to eat these burgers at this precise location. What exactly do Irv and his family owe to you, that makes your supposed rights to eat your hamburgers greater than that of Irv to enjoy the fruits of his labors, foresight, and ability to sell his own property as he alone pleases. Of course Irv -- unlike the owner of almost every other hamburger stand in LA -- did not cash in by selling his property years ago, but instead kept the stand in operation. Now as the last holdout, his reward is to listen to folks like you telling him that his stand is now so unique, that he should no longer be able to do what he wants with HIS property!
Hamburgers might be the best food in the world (and in fact they are) but your enjoyment of them doesn't entitle you to strip Irv of his property. Its too bad that the Hongs didn't buy the property along with the name and business, but havin made that choice, they shouldn't be able to look to public demagoguery to bail them out. They are free to buy or rent land elsewhere in town, and sell the exact same burgers. We will be free to buy them.
Questions of personal liberty aside, burger historians know that some of this country's greatest burger restaurants (i.e., Louis Lunch, Solly's Grill (home of the butter burger)) are no longer in the original locations. The location isn't the magic, the burger is.
Hamburger Makanmata at 11:10PM on 08/03/05
Heh. Good point, Makanmata. I hadn't thought of it in that light. Hmm... Maybe someone should mount a campaign to seize Irv's property under eminent domain, as it would serve the greater public good to not disturb the burger stand.
Adam Kuban at 11:18PM on 08/03/05
Thanks for the insight Makanmata. We are both entitled to our opinions. If you have a wesite I'd be happy to read it.
Irv did not build the stand. Irv is also not the issue here, it is the developer who wants to turn the space into a more profitable (for his team) business. If Irv did have the legal right to sell the property and desired to, I don't see how any law would stop him. I'm not sure the situation is so simple or else maybe the Hongs would buy it.
Nonetheless I have every right to bemoan the loss of a business with character for the placement of another chain store. Chain stores are typically corporate and their tactics are brutal. They make plenty of profit but often squeeze more out by shutting other, pooer businesses down. That is the essence of greed and I feel is against what our country stands for. We don't gain from their gains, but we often lose a lot.
Everywhere we look, the landscape of our country becomes more similar, with Bed, Bath and Beyonds and Starbucks ruling our sightlines. I have every right to not like that and to share my opinions on the site I work so hard on.
The "corporate greed" was originally a reference to Peet's Coffee jockeying for the space. I'd removed references to them as they were no longer the bad guy and had apparently been cool about everything once they learned of Irv's history.
For all I know about the Hongs, they may be unable to find a space with such a great location, size and rent for their budget. Relocating out of the neighborhood will kill their client base. This country was founded on private enterprise and I also bemoan how much more difficult that's become.
Irv gets rent, it is not as if he is being stripped of his property. I am not alone in perceiving corporate greed as strangling private enterprise, whether it applies to this case or not. I am glad you enjoy the site though.
Hamburglar Hadley at 2:21AM on 08/04/05
There is a good debate here and I see both sides. I fall more into the "save irv's" side of things, but I also think Irv should be able to sell his property if he wants.
However, it doesn't seem so simple-- if Irv only wanted to sell the property to a 3rd party, wouldn't he be able to quite easily? It sounds like he may be involved in the redevelopment which is making it harder. And that's a different issue from merely selling, because the community has a right to give input into new developments in their community.
There's something very ironic about a man toiling away at his craft (burger making) hoping for that final cash-out when he gets old, and then not being able to do it because the stand he created reached legendery proportions.
I'm all for Irv making his $$$ for his land, but I also think you have to keep in mind that the community has a right to express its feelings about the redevelopment of property.
Here's to Irv, I hope he gets what he needs from the sale, and here's to Irv's burgers, I hope they never leave. Contradiction? Yes, but that's life.
Hamburger Teds at 4:24AM on 08/05/05
When my Irv's cheeseburger hit the easy, breezy tables, I was truly touched by the hand-drawn blue shirt and inscription, "Just for You," on my paper plate
Were you wearing a blue shirt when you were at IRVs?
Hamburger rED at 11:51AM on 08/05/05
I'm afraid that my point was missed, and I think that the "Save Irv's" folks (who are really the "screw Irv" folks) are missing the big picture here.
Its concededly sad to see a great burger shop close. We can speculate all we want about whether or not the Hongs will be able to open elsewhere (I don't see any reason to presume that they couldn't), but even if Irv's (the stand) disappeared, the preservation of Irv's (the man) property rights is a far more critical thing to protect, not only for the preservation of personal liberty, but also because great food is generally only available when such freedoms are observed.
Firstly, one can rationalize the ends sought to be met all one wants, but the simple fact of the matter is that by preventing Irv from selling his property, and insisting that it continue as a burger stand, Irv is having something taken from him, by being denied his right to benefit from his property. Now one may think that this is ok, as it means that they can continue to enjoy these burgers. Distilled to its essence though, such a position simply demands that Irv be coerced to pay for everybody elses enjoyment of his land. So, let's just call it what it is: stealing. The preservationists simply want to take something that they didn't earn, right out of Irv's pocket, no differently than a common thief might mug a passerby.
Surely, some will still be unconvinced and unbothered about their getting something that they are not entitled to and making Irv foot the bill. They justify this position by claiming to be be looking out for the common good and supposed benefit to the community that stealing from Irv will serve. I can't sign on to this, but those unbothered by the morality of this position should consider the long run affects of such a collectivist mindset. The simple fact of the matter is that if one cannot fully profit from selling burgers, one will simply do something else. Burger selling is already not the most remunerative profession available, and by denying Irv of the full upside of his career choice will only dissuade others from following his path. Therefore, even if the amorality of forcing Irv into involuntary servitude to serve your own conception of the public good doesn't bother you, the practical negative impact of fewer burger artists producing fewer burgers should.
It will be sad to see Irv's go. Letting it go however will not only further the cause of personal liberty, but also serve to properly incentivize future burger sellers to open burger stands that they may one day be able to cash in on, instead of the many easier paths available for making a living, without the risk of a sentimental public getting in your pockets.
Hamburger Makanmata at 12:25AM on 08/06/05
My point was missed even more, Makanmata. Did you read my post when I said it was not Irv who is being fought here, it is a developer that wants to take a part of our nation's history and turn it into something we do not need so his company can profit? No one can stop Irv from his right to sell his property, but as I said before, it is not a matter so simple nor is that the case.
Irv would have the legal right to sell his property, but again, that's not what's at issue. If the Save Irv's folks were trying to stop one man from selling his property I would agree with you. I do not think anyone could prevent that or should. They are fighting to save some of L.A.'s heritage against a greedy developer, not just save one tasty burger.
Some things are more important than making money. Preserving our heritage is one of them.
A great example of this is downtown LA. Full of history, beauty, unique businesses and multi-cultural societies, a notorious developer has plans to create a Universal Studios-style citywalk down there among other monstronsities. Plenty of us love downtown for what it is, but some people won't be happy until it resembles the new 42nd street, with the same stores and restaurants you find everywhere else. We will lose a critical part of our heritage and culture, plus a whole lot of businesses will be forced out to make room for more profitable businesses.
I repeat: This is the situation at Irv's. No one is fighting a man named Irv. They are fighting a developer who wants to take the building over. I believe if the community finds a space more valuable than a group who stands to profit from it, they should have the right to fight it, and I support their efforts to make a community they way they want it, not the way some outsider feels it should be.
But since we are all about burgers here, let's have a moment of silence for some those great LA burgers which have fallen in the last few years: Mo Better Meaty Meat Burgers, Jay's Jayburgers, Suzi's, among so many other's...R.I.P.
Been nice talking Makanmata, let's agree that you disagree with the legions who want to save Irv's.
Hamburglar Hadley at 11:25AM on 08/08/05
Hadley, you are creating a false distinction by rationlizing that you aren't stopping Irv from selling his property, but only stopping the developer from buying it or utilizing it at its highest value. Of course, you would rather think that you are fighting a big greedy corporation instead of a guy who worked hard all of his life and just wants a comfortable retirement for himself and his family, but the sad reality is that there is no real distinction between the two. By stopping the developer from buying the property, you are necessarily stopping Irv from selling for an amount that he is well entitled to. There is simply no way around it though, you are fighting that man named Irv, and seeking to take what is rightfully his, so that you can continue to enjoy your burgers. You (and others) might think that your rights to continue to enjoy these burgers are superior to Irv's rights to enjoy the fruits of his labors and property, but I don't think so.
Questions of liberty aside, campaigns like these only assure the Starbuckization of American culture that you claim to lament. Guys like Irv don't have the resources or know-how to fight the do-gooders who feel entitled to decide what is good for the world, and what kind of development is good or bad. But you can bet that the Starbucks, McDonalds, and Wal-Mart's of the world -- and their legions of lawyers and consultants -- know their way around the local zoning board so as to be able to get their projects done. That is why the business of food has become more about becoming expert in dealing with the politics of regulation than about making great food. Create more red tape and more regulation, and beget more Starbucks and McDonalds. Self styled "preservationists" need to realize the application of the law of unintended consequences here, and understand that by making it impossible for the small businessman to survive, prosper, and benefit from his work, they insure that artisans will get pushed out by business savvy schlockmeisters.
Hamburger Makanmata at 12:50AM on 08/09/05
I'm tired of you Makanmata, you are telling lies that are irrelevant to Irv's. Irv for the 3rd time, does not own the stand anymore!!!!!
Seltzer Commercial Real Estate is trying to develop the property into something else, first it was Peet's Coffee, but they actually showed a lot of heart when told about Irv's and backed off. That's a corporation with a conscience and concern for the nation's landscape and heritage. Peet's and thousands of others understand the plight of Irv's, whereas you do not.
You told me my argument is absurd and you say I make false distinctions, but your arguments rely on lies. Maybe you should have read my previous posts when I said, then repeated, "it was not Irv who is being fought here, it is a developer that wants to take a part of our nation's history and turn it into something we do not need so his company can profit? No one can stop Irv from his right to sell his property" and later "If the Save Irv's folks were trying to stop one man from selling his property I would agree with you. I do not think anyone could prevent that or should. They are fighting to save some of L.A.'s heritage against a greedy developer, not just to save one tasty burger." Do you listen to anybody but yourself?
Are you actually M. Seltzer, resorting to desperate diatribes on our small website to turn the tide against a hard-working family for your personal gain?
If I am creating a false distinction, please tell us what you know about this man named Irv and his personal plight to sell a business he owns, which you mistakenly said he started and posseses. If what you say is rooted in fact, you would have a good point, but your facts are shakey...at best. They are even bigger lies the way you state them with such certainty.
Please enlighten us as to what you know about this guy named Irv, obviously it is a situation close to you. It's not just the Save Irv's folks either, but the Los Angeles Conservancy and the Route 66 Historical Landmark organization involved in saving Irv's. Or are they just "self-styled preservationalists" with no vision or concern for our city?
It is not an attempt to rationalize, but rather my understanding of what the true story is, compared to the well-spoken but factually incorrect arguments you make.
You are rationalizing your point of view too, but don't tell me what I think nor tell me what I claim to lament. I do destest the Starbucks infiltration, I don't just think or claim to hate it, so don't patronize my beliefs like I'm some sort of naive, misguided follower. Stop lying too to make a point.
I understand your points about personal ownership and agree, but it does not apply to this case. I hope you are as incensed that our government recently passed legislation allowing for the revoking of personal property wherever higher tax revenues can be made. Meaning you could lose your personal property if the city/state/nation could make more developing it into a mini-mall. As you say, business savvy schlockmeisters can probably find loopholes to jusitfy whatever they want, meaning this legislation favors them. It's not some Burger dork you should worry about but your nation's representatives.
From everything I've been told and researched, the developer is simply trying to push the renters out, Irv has no prescence in this situation. What right do they have to pressure The Hongs, destroy their business and the North Amercian dream of coming to this country with nothing and working towards a secure life?
What could stop Irv from selling, Makanmata, if that was how simple it was? No coalition of West Hollywooders could stop it. Stop oversimplifying things and if you know some facts we don't, please share them.
It's not only about burgers either, it's about architecture, community and a city landmark. I agree if Irv wanted to sell it and that was it, he should have every right too. But again, the community has every right to protest and plead with him to keep it open, but no legal rights to keep it rented out. I agree food is less important than rights to what one has bought and wants to sell, but this is not the case. The community should also have a right to decide what they want in their neighborhood and not let it just go to the highest bidder.
To quote Irv's website: "Thousands of neighbors and adjacent businesses have written letters, made phone calls and signed petitions to save this iconic burger stand. But the future of Irv’s Burgers is still unknown. We urgently need your help and support. We’ve taken up the cause as great lovers of burgers, Los Angeles street food and the American Dream."
Again, if you'd like to help Irv's visit:
http://www.irvsburgers.com/help.html
Hamburglar Hadley at 2:19AM on 08/09/05
Hadley, I'm sorry to hear that you are tired of me, but perhaps it is because you are simply uncomfortable with the logical errors inherent in your position regarding this matter, and your troubled conscience is getting the better of you. It seems that being unable to defend the ethics of your position with logic, you are trying to change the subject and without a single iota of support, make the conclusory assertion that I have a financial interest in the outcome of this controversy. In fact, I can assure you that I am in no way associated with any of the parties involved in this matter. Rather, I am an advocate for both good food and personal liberty, and understand the inextricable link between the two. I am moved by the clear injustice of this matter, and have no financial stake in the outcome whatsoever. Suggesting otherwise, without benefit of evidence, is simply a device to distract from the weakness and impropriety of your arguments.
Moreover, your understanding of the facts is simply wrong, and the fact that you would mess with Irv's property rights on such an incomplete understanding, is unfortunate. By all accounts, Mr. Irv Gendis ("Irv") remains the owner of the property in question, which he controls through his family real estate development company Seltzer Commercial Real Estate. These media reports are all over the Route 66 website, and it would be good for you to review them so as to understand the facts before calling for Irv to be stripped of his property rights. Ergo, the big greedy company you claim to fight is indeed nothing but a straw man that might make you able to live more comfortably with your position, but nonetheless is based upon an incorrect premise.
Lastly, you could correctly bemoan the Supreme Court's decision last month in Kelo v. New London, which would seem to allow civic do-gooders to determine the "best" use of a person's land, regardless of the owners own desires for it. To be sure, this decision is a danger to good food and liberty, and would allow the City of LA to decide that Apple Pan should be replaced by Wal-Mart, or allow New York City to replace Di Fara's with Pizza Hut, because both would create more tax revenue. You fail to realize though that the application of your logic here is no different at all than the Supreme Court's logic in Kelo. The only difference is that you want to be the do-gooder who gets to decide what to do with somebody else's land and determine the civic benefits that purportedly trump the rights of the true owner. Either way though, property is being taken away from its true owners, for the unearned benefit of others, whether it is extra tax revenue or extra burgers. The unjust result is the same, and will lead to more Starbucks and McDonalds, and less Apple Pan's and Di Faras.
Hamburger Makanmata at 6:09AM on 08/09/05
No, I'm tired of you becuase you never seem to listen to what I say. I keep saying, if what you say is true, I absolutely agree Irv has the right to sell and should be able to unfettered.
Then why can't he Makanmata?
I believe there is a way to compensate Irv and save the stand, without wrecking it and turning it into a chain to benefit Seltzer. Also I am not personally fucking with Irv's property rights(and feel you resort to dramatic lies and assumptions to prove your points), I simply wrote an article supporting The Hongs, who I feel should have a right to compensation and support, and support for the community who should have every right to influence what their neighborhood looks like. Money should not be the deciding factor as to what these people have to look at every day. It's a matter of opinion and I look forwarde to the moment we can agree to disagree.
Hamburglar Hadley at 1:05PM on 08/09/05
Yum.
Hamburger sean at 6:46AM on 08/11/05