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Review: Pop Burger

Posted by Honey P., May 24, 2005 at 11:32 AM

NEW YORK CITY



A throwback to the one of our most cherished decades, Pop Burger, in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood, takes "I love the '80s" to a whole new atmospheric level. Last Monday, AHT editor and publisher Adam K. and I turned the corner on 14th Street and laid eyes upon this inviting, clean, and crisp-looking burger joint that plays prelude to the overpriced lounge that lies behind. Truth be told, I've been before, but never sober (Pop is open 'til 2 a.m. on weekdays, 5 a.m. on weekends), so this seemed like a first visit for me. And, as it turns out, drunk munchies or not, there's "little" to complain about here.

The soundtrack is every girl's dream, from Madonna to Cyndi Lauper to a very apropos "Manic Monday." The burgers seem to have hit the Jane Fonda workout and dropped three sizes. And for anyone who actually is watching the waistline, the two minis in a pack provide premium satisfaction and zero guilt.

Here, the food is quick. Three-inch rounds are cooked several at a time sparking high orange flames and the beautiful inviting smell of grilled meat pouring out of the open kitchen. A titanium-esque wall with backlit words (see photo at top) in what looks to be the Courier typeface scream out to you in a drunken haze but also provide quite the visual experience during traditonal dinner time. The multitude of uniform simple white boxes slapped with "Pop" stickers and symmetrical rows of red Coca-Cola cans behind the counter are a perfect pop-art installation and complement the Basquiat prints lining the walls. And we loved the blue-and-white minimalist setting; it's no doubt a seriously scrubbed-up version of the dingy confines of Blue 9, across the island.

But let's get to the actual meat. My friend Chris complains that the burgers are too charred, and that's unfortunately the case. This seems almost inevitable with mini meats. A quarter pounder takes great grilling finesse, so, just like little people (not "little people" little people, but babies rather), petite patties probably could use a little love and attention from their grill meister. However, I say, get over it and relish that smoky, charred taste that somehow melds well enough with the other flavors aside from one off-kilter bite here or there.

This is snacking fare, and it earns its marks in all other categories. The soft and shiny buns cushion the meat and toppings for maximum no-mess munching and the small puff of shredded lettuce, vibrant red plum tomato slice, and special sauce (kinda like a Russian dressing) all come together to form one juicy bite. And I know, you're probably saying $5 for two minis is pricey compared to Schnäck, which is less than half of that, but, there are a few things to remember. You've got good ambience, accommodating late-night hours, it's still a hefty patty when you combine the two, and, from the completely open store front to the fact that you have to pass through the fast-food area to get to the club, there's always the possibility of a celeb sighting (for those of you who care).

Pop Burger wins in the sides category as well. They do all the accoutrements right. Mud-thick milkshakes, fries so crunchy they seem coated in batter and crisp golden rings just slightly smaller than the circumference of each burger filled with fresh chopped white onion. Impress your date by ending with two sweet cupcakes that also come in a pack and now we're talking romance. And, the other great thing about this food is that it travels well. A friend of mine ordered a bunch to show up during her birthday party and not only were they a total hit but they tasted fresh-from-the-counter.

Upon leaving, Adam K. and I without a doubt agreed that having consumed 4 burgers and two orders of onion rings total, we felt satiated but just to that perfect point where we knew we wouldn't regret this meal later. Perhaps that's the joy of mini burgers: just as Tattoo the Midget proved to us back in the 80s, less really is more.

POP BURGER
Location: 58-60 Ninth Ave., New York City NY (b/n 14th & 15th)
Phone: 212-414-8686
Short Order: Small burgers with hefty, but charred, patties. Good place to spot celebs.
Cost: $5 for two sliders

5 Comments | Tags: NYC, Pop Burger, reviews, tiny hamburgers