NEW YORK CITY The recent snap of nice-for-a-change spring weather had me jazzed to do some al fresco dining. What better place for open-air eating (and drinking) than the Bohemian Beer Hall & Garden? Unfortunately, when I arrived at the restaurant, only a portion of the garden was open—and it was packed.
Fortunately, I found another nearby option, one that served burgers. French restaurant 718, on the corner of Ditmars Boulevard and 35th Street in Astoria, Queens, seems an unexpected choice for hamburgers, but the tasty sandwiches can indeed be found on the menu there.
Listed under the tapas section (is there not a French word for tapas?), you'll find the 718 Burger ($8). Don't let the singular noun fool you: You'll actually receive two small (3-inch or so) cheeseburgers on rolls with a slice of tomato. Think White Castle gone upscale, Chateau Blanc, if you will. The 718 Burger is served with fries and a salad of mixed greens.
Juicyness registered low on the scale, perhaps because of the patties' diminutive size, but their mildly pungent spices added interest, lending the tiny hamburgers an almost Middle Eastern or Mediterranean airI swear I was tasting chickpea in there somewhere, too. The fries and salad are nice additions and provide balance if you're worried about your consumption of meat. I wasn't so worried and would rather have lost the sides in exchange for a couple more miniburgers.
The bottom line: For a full-on burger experience, it might be wise to dial around. 718's baby burgers definitely belong on the tapas menu, more a snack than a meal.
718 Location: 35-01 Ditmars Blvd.; Astoria, NY Phone: 718-204-5333 Getting there: Take the N/W trains to the end of the line; exit station, walk north to Ditmars. Right on Ditmars; walk a few blocks east. Short Order: The 718 Burgeractually two mini hamburgers. Served with fries and salad. $8.
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